[Brad Alan]

Hello,

Looks like you need to clean up the water pump.  Note that there’s a plate behind the gasket that you are seeing with another gasket then the case.  Be sure to take the plate off too, clean everything up, and use new gaskets when reassembling.

However, you have a different problem that’s not causing the motor to start… The motor should start even if you have no water in it… let alone a leak.

Spark: Check that the kart has spark.  While on the kart stand, pull the plug, connect it back to the boot, hold the plug against the cylinder head nut, put the kart in gear, and turn the wheels to turn over the motor.  It should spark.

Fuel: If it has spark, be sure it’s getting fuel.  Put a new plug in it and see if there is fuel on the plug after a few attempts to start.

Compression: If it has fuel and spark… check the compression.  If you don’t know how to do this, just take the cylinder off and see if the ring is stuck to the piston or excessive wear.

Let us know what you find!

Brad

[Brad Alan]

Freddy – Thanks for the response.  Just sent you a PM.  Brad

 

[Brad Alan]

or… If you have taken the clutch apart and put it back together, there’s a small steel ball that goes between the push rod and “hat” that releases the pressure on the clutch plates (when you engage the clutch).  If that steel ball got lost during the tear down (and not installed during the assembly), that’ll cause the issue you are describing.

[Brad Alan]

I agree, first check the “slop” in the cable when the cluch is not engaged.  If there’s a lot, then tighten it up and see if that fixes things.  There should be a little “slop” but not excessive.

If that’s not the case then…

When the engine is running and everything is warmed up, in gear, and pull the clutch can you apply the break and does the engine keep running?  If so, all is fine, if not, you have a problem.

If the engine is cold and you pull the clutch, it might not seem like it’s disengaging… With the transmission fluid and the number of disk/pressure plates, it might not feel like it’s working, so it’s best to try as I mentioned above.

Good luck

[Brad Alan]

All,

For reference, I was able to find this place online.  Very helpful.  I sent them an email mentioned what I needed.  I got a response within 2 hours.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/furukawa-rfw-090.html

Thanks,

Brad

[Brad Alan]

I set mine between 22-26 clicks… I believe that there are a total of 51 clicks.

Turn it all of the way in, then back out 22-26 clicks.

I’m not sure if this will solve your problem though.

Be sure that you don’t have the choke still on (i.e. push down the black button after you get it running).

Another thing to check… is the pump taking the fuel back to the tank working properly?  i.e. is the engine getting flooded at low RMPs as the fuel is not getting pumped back into the tank properly?

Hope this helps!

[Brad Alan]

PM Sent!

[Brad Alan]

FYI Quentin & David – It’s sold.  I bought it just before Christmas.

[Brad Alan]

Bryan, thanks for starting this thread, I’m going to piggyback off of it a bit…

TJ, thanks for the insight regarding MG’s and Evincos.

Does anyone have any advice regarding the MG Yellow vs Hoosier R60A for road racing a 125 shifter?  I’ve used Hoosier R60A’s and B’stone YLB (YLM) in the past and the Hoosiers outperformed the B’stones.  I’m curious to see what others think regarding MG Yellow vs Hoosier R60A.

Thanks!

[Brad Alan]

I too had a blast this past weekend at MIS.  Thanks MKC.  There was great competition in the stock honda and 125 shifter classes.  Looking forward to going back next year!

Jeremy – glad you were able to walk away from that crash.  It was wicked.

Brad

[Brad Alan]

PM Sent!

[Brad Alan]

It was a great weekend.  No complaints from my end… well my jetting could’ve been a bit better, but I’ll take the blame on that.  The 125 shifter class was a great race with a large field!  Looking forward to 2017 to do it all over again!

Off to Grattan in a few weeks; hopeful for great numbers there too!

[Brad Alan]

Mario is a first class person to buy from.

He answered all of my questions and even checked in to ensure that I rec’d the package a few days after he sent it.

Thank-you!

[Brad Alan]

Hello! – I have a buddy that’s interested.

I just sent you his contact information in a private message.

Thanks!

Brad

[Brad Alan]

Craig – I’m interested if still available. – Just sent a PM.

Brad

[Brad Alan]

Wrap the cable with electrical tape where you need to cut (wrap it 7-8 times).  Cut with a decent side cutter thru the electrical tape… no fraying.

I just learned this last year by watching someone else do it… Works great, wish I would’ve learned this years ago.

 

Brad

[Brad Alan]

Registered – 125 shifter and Stock Honda – both days!

[Brad Alan]

Alright – So I got the high-temp silicone and put it b/t the manifold and cylinder and plug in the manifold again, and pressurized the engine up to 5.5psi.  I let it sit for 5 mins, came back.  Still at 5.5psi.  Looks like its all good!

 

Thanks for all of your help.

[Brad Alan]

Thanks for the replies. I will get the silicone today at the auto parts store and retest.

Since it was leaking when I did the test I can’t tell you how much it dropped off.  I will let you know when I do the test again.

[Brad Alan]

Bump! – Still looking for a motor mount.  Please text or call.

419.two three four 7394

Thanks!

Brad

[Brad Alan]

 

Please Delete

[Brad Alan]

Still available for sale.

[Brad Alan]

If you’re back at the track before you get the appropriate boot, just wrap it with electrical tape.  It will work for the day and will let you know if that’s the problem quickly…

[Brad Alan]

Lean is fast. In my opinion, that’s too lean. Did you a EGT reading? 1100 is good for EGT. 450 CHT is too hot. I woulnd’t go over 420 CHT.

[Brad Alan]

Sanford, I will look for that. If the pulse line input on the pump is full of fuel does that mean I should look at/fix something else within the engine too?

thanks!

[Author]

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