[Glenn L Riggs]

Have not done a kz10 but have done kz10b and c the cylinders interchange the only difference is the outer o ring is larger an not compatible. Now on those cylinder is a 4 degree piston dome  instead of  6 degree and to go with the difference the insert has been changed, doesnt mean you have to change these to run it.  These newer cylinders do seem to wake up the engine. Timing is the same for the most part. jetting also except it needs to be closer if it is rich seems to be more effected as the 9 b an c dont seem to be as fussy. If using a kz10b cylinder it has holes in the base that should be plugged so as the block doesn`t have holes when using the hose on the side, for whatever reason on the newer engine they went back to the hose on the side. Hope that helps.

[Glenn L Riggs]

The mount was designed for the k9 series to get a better fuel displacement angle the newer kzs engines have that angle built into them not needing the front end raised the kz10c is supposed to be slightly higher than the kz10b dont think there is much performance difference tho hope this helps

[Glenn L Riggs]

I have used the b and c and kz10b on a 9 believe the cases are very close they do have different inserts for the head and make one that you can cut to meet your squish area have to watch the cc`s tho as I have had a couple that could get the squish right and have the cc would not pass so went with the rule for cc and they ran fine. Hope this helps. Have also found that when some engine builders go thru an engine they square the case and that lowers the whole thing so that may be an option also.

[Glenn L Riggs]

You would like a 50 slide the higher numbers are leaner during acceleration. A good starting point would be a b45 inner idle, 60 outer idle k22 needle, top clip dq267 tube and 150 main depending on temp. Have seen used slides on e bay for much less and they really dont wear much. hope this helps

[Glenn L Riggs]

Both models are very similar and parts are interchangeable the c has a little different exhaust port difference most of the differences are in the pipe a b pipe has more torque and the c is a little higher in rpm. It is also legal now to use different tm parts hope this helps.

[Glenn L Riggs]

I have a 9b cylinder is on second replate and not run since is pretty much stock the b and c are pretty much the same. Have also 9c 1 replate pretty much untouched inside  250 for B and 350 for c shipped  in usa. Both very good condition. e mail at kart777@aol.com Thanks Glenn

[Glenn L Riggs]

compression will help with torque and power thru out but what happens on a 2 stroke as the area is decreased near top dead center that allows for less flow of fuel in and out

[Glenn L Riggs]

Better arrow? lol If it lights the fuel Can`t see where its worth the money

 

[Glenn L Riggs]

The orange stuff is Hi temp rtv or silicone available at your auto parts store. and it gets over everything.

 

[Glenn L Riggs]

In the midwest where I am the icc is doing well. Also doing well on east coast. Dont know what they are doing for that kind of money but if hasnt been blown up can be rebuilt for about 500 dollars. In need of a rebuild I would guess it would be worth 1200 to 1400 dollars fresh would guess around 2000 just my opinion as new engines are in the 5 grand area or more depending where it comes from. Need any info just drop me a line be glad to help.

[Glenn L Riggs]

Well from your set up info I believe you are lean. I am in the midwest and you could have a completely different weather set up. But the k98 needle is a very large needle limits fuel some use as a qualifying set up. Don`t know what you have to tune with  but if you want to keep that needle you need to go to at least a dq268 tube or you could leave the tube and change the needle a k21 or k22 should put you close. Toms set up with a cq1 idle circuit 60 outer dq264 k93 needle works well am not always sold on the 130 main jet tho would start with a135 main this set up flows alot of fuel because of the small needle so to get peek power you got to be real close on the main jet. These are the set ups I use on a tm a pavesi seems to like less fuel so this should be a good starting point. Good luck

[Glenn L Riggs]

Thanks guys did take apart found some loose bolts a a stone stuck in the foot linkage keeping it from full engagement now works fine,

[Glenn L Riggs]

This was great, had to upgrade my cable but was worth it. Was cool to see the bumping and grinding going on would have liked to see a little more of the S1 as they say there is a long 25 laps then its white flag time, a few more laps would have made it a little more entertaining but was very pleased with how the first one was done. I am sure it will get better as it goes on. Thanks to all who helped get this going.

 

[Glenn L Riggs]

I believe the rod lengths are slightly different so no the pistons are not directly replaceable. Maxter parts from superkart.it in italy are very fast shippers look them up on the net.

[Glenn L Riggs]

It is a sweedtech standard bore 2 pipes the hi rev pipe and the later torque pipe. it is complete. also have a spare rotor and stator with it.  Live near chicago if you want to take a look at it. Would like to get 1200. e mail is Kart777@aol.com

[Glenn L Riggs]

Did you get your pavesi? Have decided to sell mine if interested pm for deatils

[Glenn L Riggs]

I run tms and wouldnt worry about having to ever replace a crank, rod and bearings yes. That electric tm is all different inside and parts are special because of the electric start the engine is detuned to be able to start so it wont run with a non electric engine if thats not a problem for you and you want it for fun I would say go ahead.

[Glenn L Riggs]

I thought show was interesting from a outsider looking in. Not how I would maybe have shown it but was good to see. Could almost smell the 2 stroke oil with this weather and time is great to see karts on tv. Had people from work asking questions about karts and tracks not that they will run out and buy but doesn`t hurt  to get the word out.  I hope it is around for a while and the content may also get better.

[Glenn L Riggs]

As a matter a fact I am talking about a tm special balanced crank 125 icc engine. when you make the wheels and shafts straight dead on the bearing on the pto is worn to a little over .001 on the journal. Engine has seemed to be a little unhappy pulling much over 13800 my other tms pull 14400 and was just wondering if the crank could be the reason. I remember somewhat the same happening back in the day with kt100. When we ran pipe and twisted the heck out of them, cranks didnt last long.  Thanks for looking Glenn

[Glenn L Riggs]

Hey Walt have a question and thought you would be the guy to ask. How much wear on the crank main  bearing is allowed before performance start to degrade? Replace at .001 ? Whats your findings? I am sure you would know. Thanks

[Glenn L Riggs]

I would try a 18/21 as a starting point

[Glenn L Riggs]

The ideal way would be to measure bore then measure the old piston see what the clearance is for those. If you run road racing clearance could be somewhere around .003 have run well at .004 but with the larger clearance tends to wear by the exhaust ports but is ok if you keep an eye on it. On sprint only engine I will start just over .002 and break in for a long time. Some people like running the hard gold ring and they do last problem being they tend to wear the block. so thats your choice. If you take the piston out and it still has cross hatch and is round just some clean up with some fine sand paper and your good to go.  If you have to hone it that should be done by a pro with a torque plate and special stones. While it is apart you will want to clean carbon from ports but dont use anything that would damage the aluminum as this could be a tech violation. As far as the engine that failed this is an ideal time to learn. Take the upper end apart look that over then see if the rod is blue at the big end the rod is junk if it is. if not locked may have a main bearing failure. To rebuild is easy. Until you get some hands on would leave that to the pros You can just send the crank out.Dont be surprised if the pto half is worn. to take apart you will need a rotor puller and allen wrenches after the rotor is off pull the allens and split the cases face the halfs face down in the oven or hot plate and after heated the bearings fall out make sure its clean and and drop in new bearings do not hit them. There should be some endplay on the crank ideal is about .010. There is no timing to adjust just use a biz card to set the magnet on the ignition. Seals should be able to be pushed in by your fingers keep them straight. Where the pro`s have it is when they take a new engine they square everything up but if yours has been done it should be ok. Hope this helps Have fun.

[Glenn L Riggs]

You should be able to do a quality upper end yourself is not that hard the keys are having a nice round cylinder getting the right piston fit, I kind of like a little tighter with slow break in as it seems to last longer than a lose fit . Now the other thing is if it has been blueprinted the piston has been cut you can stand the new piston next to old and see the height difference you need to cut the skirt to match as that controls your intake spec. I use a lathe but anyway you can keep it even is fine. Be careful with the c lips have had some that break the one with the tab seems to be worse. When putting back together the split on the ring goes to the intake. There is a pin there to hold it. Reuse the base gaskets as the thickness controls the exhaust port height. Do not over tighten as they bend easily and will distort the bore.  Would give you something to do on these cold nights. lol If your near chicago could give you a hand. We don`t run kt100 anymore but has some great memories. Take care

[Glenn L Riggs]

Welcome to some of the most fun you can have on 4 wheels. But as Keith has stated there are no manuals for set up. There are programs for jetting but you need to set a baseline first before it is accurate. Richer than you need to be works well. These engine has a considerable amount of over rev.  But my advise would be not to max out rpms and it will live for a ling time. What area do you plan to race at? If your with ces series in the midwest would be glad to help you out. As far as maintenence it`s hard to say. If jetted nice and not over reved  a piston every ten gallons will probably go a most of the season. To be safe a lower end 1/2 way thru season. Have fun

[Glenn L Riggs]

My sons are tuff on equipment so in one year after 2 dnfs because of masters failing, we now have no master links in our chains. I know of people who have no issues but to me isnt worth not finishing. good luck.

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