[Todd Kageals]

Should have mentioned that the karts are in Roanoke, VA.  The closest place to race them is at VIR, or MMX near Charlotte.

[Todd Kageals]

Roanoke, VA.  I’ll help out with shipping if needed.

[Todd Kageals]

Clark,

What you up to?  My son and I have been running some practice laps at Mooresville in our LO206 karts.  We have not made it to the Woodbridge races yet.  Waiting for you guys to come back to VIR!  I also picked up a CR125 that I am going to run, just for fun.  I also now have a 125 TAG kart that a fellow gave me.  Reworking that one this winter.  We’d love to come race with you guys again.

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

And just to add, a small brake cylinder hone can be used to slip fit the bearings in just a few minutes.

[Todd Kageals]

Steven,

I’m grateful for your response, but no, that’s not really helpful :)  I know it has an electric starter and that it’s made by IAME.  I was hoping someone could identify whether or not it’s a 125cc.  I also need a model for the engine as I would like to do the top end.

Thanks,

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Yeah….I know it’s an “EasyKart”, I was asking about the engine.  I don’t even know what it’s called so that I could get parts for it.  Not sure of the displacement, etc.

[Todd Kageals]

Can this be setup with an LO206?

[Todd Kageals]

Is this still available?

[Todd Kageals]

Clark!  When did  you start racing the LO206?  I thought it was Leopards and Stock Honda for you guys!  You helped me get into shifter racing a few years ago.  I realize this thread is old.  I was searching for something to get my 9 year old on track and the LO206 seemed like a good option.  Mainly because it’s cheap to race (compared to the Honda shifter anyway).  What’s the top speed on an LO206 at SPR?  Just curious if it’s fast enough to be fun on a road course?  I might pick up a cadet for my son and another for myself.  Curious about the classes too.  Can a 9 year old run an LO206 at SPR, or would he have to stick to the sprint tracks?

Thanks,

Todd Kageals

[Todd Kageals]

Got any pictures?  Interested in the roller.

Thanks,

T0dd

[Todd Kageals]

Interested if the karts are still available.  Email toddkageals@cox.net .

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

I’m interested.  Got any pictures?  It would be a long drive from VA, but might be willing to come pick it up.

Thanks,

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Got any pictures of the kart in its current state.  Where are you located?  You can email toddkageals@cox.net.

Thanks,

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Dan,

Interested in the kart for my 8 year old son.  Got any pictures?  You can email toddkageals@cox.net .

Thanks,

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Mark,

I need 4 sets of MG Yellows shipped to 24179.  I see $50.00/set, can I get a shipping quote?

Thanks,

Todd
toddkageals@cox.net

 

 

 

 

[Todd Kageals]

Matt,

I don’t have an answer for you but I’d like the same information for Stock Honda.  I’ve been there a couple of times but I can’t find my notes.

Thanks,

Todd

 

 

[Todd Kageals]

I’d just order the nut from discounthondaparts.com .  You are sure to get the correct nut from them.  If memory serves, that’s a flanged nut on there.

[Todd Kageals]

Tom,

Never heard of a “Gold”.  Might be interested, what can you tell me about the brand?  Pictures?

[Todd Kageals]

Ben,

I did exactly what you are doing, even got the lower end on eBay!  I spent about $1000.00 rebuilding my motor (new cylinder, new crank, new head, new piston, all new bearings, all new seals and gaskets).  I can’t remember if that included the electrics or not.  The CDI is not that expensive but the stator setup is $$$.  Get your parts from a place like discounthondaparts.com .  There are other places.  You can buy a new cylinder for what it would cost to buy a sleeve and have it installed.  You can easily do this if you have some general rebuild experience (I had only done car motors before).  One tip on the transmission.  I THINK I remember reading that only the 96 97 is a direct swap.  The earlier transmissions have one shaft that is shorter or something like that (IIRC).  Also, you can easily slip fit the bearings/crank.  If you are doing it by hand, it will take a while but easily doable (I did it on a lathe with some sand paper).  Stick with OEM Honda parts (especially if you are going to run in Stock Honda).  Good luck.  Feel free to email me if I can help (it’s been three years though).

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Ben,

I did exactly what you are doing, even got the lower end on eBay!  I spent about $1000.00 rebuilding my motor (new cylinder, new crank, new head, new piston, all new bearings, all new seals and gaskets).  Get your parts from a place like discounthondaparts.com .  There are other places.  You can buy a new cylinder for what it would cost to buy a sleeve and have it installed.  You can easily do this if you have some general rebuild experience (I had only done car motors before).  One tip on the transmission.  I THINK I remember reading that only the 96 97 is a direct swap.  The earlier transmissions have one shaft that is shorter or something like that (IIRC).  Also, you can easily slip fit the bearings/crank.  If you are doing it by hand, it will take a while but easily doable (I did it on a lathe with some sand paper).  Good luck.  Feel free to email me if I can help (it’s been three years though).

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

[quote quote=53627]1999 kit motor or 2001? What pilot and needle? I’m guessing this was at Buttonwillow? [/quote]

Chris,

This was actually at Summit Point, WV.  I don’t know what pilot I was running as I have never swapped the pilot.  I was under the impression that the pilot only affected the mixture at part throttle (I’m almost never part throttle at SPR).  The popping only occurred at full throttle on the main straight.  Needle was DGJ.  I think 20:1 is the spec ratio for our club.  The motor is a ’99 but I built it from an old dirt bike motor (completely rebuilt including the 6 speed).  I did notice that I am missing the rubber boot that goes on top of the carburetor around the cable.  Not sure how much that would affect it.

[Todd Kageals]

That’s not the way it works for road racing Cory.   At least not where we typically run.  Everyone starts their karts on the stands then lowers them to the ground right in their grid spot.  Most guys use a strap on the wheel or just spin the rear tires by hand.  That’s all well and good when it starts right up but that’s not always the case for our karts (for sure jetted too rich most of the time).  It’s also a function of being close to 50 as opposed to close to 20 (which if I remember correctly, that’s about where you are)!  I know that because I am pretty sure I am driving your old kart.  Your dad sold it to me a few years back.

[Todd Kageals]

I’m not sure I could sand down in the grooves with the paper.  I’ll use some walnut shell blast media or some ultra fine glass.  That should take care of the rust without leaving the surface too rough.  I’ll definitely try the copper RTV.  What brand do you use?

[Todd Kageals]

Here’s a video of the starter in action.  If I were doing this again, I would just use the nut above instead of building the adapter.  The only downside is that it would require a much larger hole in the seat.

CR125 Kart Electric Starter: https://youtu.be/MndnNvXrmwY

 

[Todd Kageals]

Kerry,

I’m going to agree with you on both counts.  Even though our starter is not on-board, the electric starter and my electric kart lift are definitely the best investments we have made.  We don’t lift the karts a single time, the lift even gets them on and off the trailer!  The starter makes life so much easier that I don’t dread all the work.  Dad stalled at the start of the last race and was able to jump out and restart the kart in a few seconds with the kart on the ground.  Saved his race.  Really, the drill works just as well for us as the Hagar would because we are not allowed to restart the kart on track anyway.

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