[Robert Fisher]

Sorry just got back to computer. I’ll get some images to you later this evening.

[Robert Fisher]

Bump for price drop.

[Robert Fisher]

I ultrasonically clean my carb, so no worries about the cleaner. I’ll bend the arms back and bend the tab instead. What solvent is present in carb cleaner that would eat the seal that isn’t present in gasoline? An alcohol or acetate perhaps?

[Robert Fisher]

They are in correctly, but good call about them filling up. I’ll check that out and see if that’s the issue…

[Robert Fisher]

I’m also quite new to Rotax karts, and still learning, but here’s what I’ve learned over the past 6 months:

Set-up: This might seem obvious, but maybe put some more camber in the fronts to help grip coming out of corners so you can get on the power earlier. Also widening the rear width a bit will help. People might reference the power valve, but I haven’t found too much benefit by messing with it.

Driving: I’ve had to force myself to get out of the late-apexing tendency I’ve gotten from rental/indoor karts and hit the geometric apex. Also, with the Rotax, start getting on the throttle very early in the corner just enough so that the power valve doesn’t bog you down when you really get on it coming out of a corner.

[Robert Fisher]

Not quite the same, but I’m running a 77 in TaG Sr. with a Rotax non-Evo. I’ve tried a 78 for more top speed, but got run over coming up the hill after T2.

 

Hope that helps.

[Robert Fisher]

Bump. Still don’t have an answer.

[Robert Fisher]

If I paid for shipping, what would you charge for just an exhaust pipe and the seat?

 

What size is the seat?

 

Thanks

[Robert Fisher]

I’ll be there! (Rotax in TaG Senior though…)

 

Also FYI there will be an awards banquet afterwards in the new building (I believe).

[Robert Fisher]

Hello,

I’d be interested in a front body panel, pressure gauge, transponder (depending on the model), battery, bead breaker, axle tool, and maybe some of the smaller tools.

If you’d be interesting in selling just these parts, PM me a quote with shipping to zip 30346.

 

Thanks

[Robert Fisher]

As a engineering graduate who used to work at a product development company, and now races Rotax, I’d think that I would have all sorts of ideas, but everything good is already made! I do have a few ideas; I’m not sure if they exist already, or what manufacturing capabilities you have (3D printing? etc), or how much engineering your looking for, but…:

1. Better composite sprockets: They are very light, and help acceleration, but people complain that if you go off, it WILL break. Perhaps use a new composite material/FEA to make a stronger one.

2. Better bodywork. Most body work isn’t well thought-out aero speaking, so maybe optimize the front/side body work for better airflow.

3. Oh, here’s a good one I almost tried making myself: Fuel tank baffles. Prevent unnecessary weight transfer by keeping the fuel from sloshing around.

These might be a bit lame, but maybe I’ll think of some more later. At least mine are better than Walt’s!

[Robert Fisher]

The cheap one from Fastech Racing works well. Be careful not to break off the tip when tightening it, and if you do ask them to send a replacement and they might. They did for me!

[Robert Fisher]

Hey, I know this post is quite old but is this kart still available?

[Robert Fisher]

I’d be interested in the Mojos and Bridgestones, possibly some rims (probably rears, maybe fronts depending on what size spindle they are for). PM me with shipping estimates to Atlanta, GA.

[Robert Fisher]

I like that yours is cheaper, but is there a downside to the one you posted?

[Robert Fisher]

OK, so my caliper is junk. I’d still like another option other than the arrows caliper though. How about using this bracket: https://cometkartsales.com/Brake-Caliper-Bracket.html

and using this caliper: https://cometkartsales.com/MCP-1375-SER-Rear-Red-Caliper-with-Pads.html

Or is this caliper too small?

[Robert Fisher]

So, this is probably the cheapest solution possible: I was planning on having somebody reinforcing the blue area right? Turns out that given the lack of rigidity I tapped it with a hammer a bit and now the threads engage the screw’s threads. Perhaps this was the initial problem: not a stripped thread but the area was bulged outward.  It might not be sealed though, I’ll install it in a few days and test it. If I don’t see any leaking from this area, I guess its good for now. I’ll probably get a new caliper soon anyway just to be safe, but assuming this holds a seal I’ll buy that new set of tires that I need first!

[Robert Fisher]

 

[Robert Fisher]

Hmm, the bleed hole that’s stripped is on the side where there isn’t much metal around it. I could probably tap a slightly larger size, but not much. I might have to have somebody add some aluminum around this area to stiffen it up so the tapping process doesn’t bulge it out. I might try your MCP idea if the 1/8th isn’t much bigger than the standard screw. (Any idea what the standard screw size is?)

 

Here’s a crazy idea: could I just seal up this hole for good, and instead of bleeding air at the caliper could I bleed it at the master cylinder?

 

How much would you charge to fix this yourself?

 

[Robert Fisher]

Ah, fantastic thanks! The diagram in the document you posted is different then the other ones I was seeing, hence my doubt. This one seems to be the best one I’ve seen.

[Robert Fisher]

I’m not turning the clutch, the clutch turns free. Yes its resistance to the piston, so it looks like I’m in the clear. Thanks!

[Robert Fisher]

I was thinking about problems with extra weight transfer rather than fuel pick up issues.

[Robert Fisher]

OK, thanks. How would you recommend doing that?

[Robert Fisher]

I’d be interested in the whole thing. Could you email some pics to robertfishergt@gmail.com?

[Robert Fisher]

I’d certainly be interested. Where are you located? Could you email me some pics to robertfishergt@gmail.com? Thanks.

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