[Walt Gifford]

That’s an example of something that works but with a decreased safety margin.

It depends on how much metal you have to work with. MCP has a caliper with brass inserts that hold the bleed screw see link. I would get one of those and install it in your caliper if there’s enough metal to do it. I believe you need a tap for 1/8th pipe thread.

https://cometkartsales.com/MCP-Brake-Caliper-Parts/

Or you could drill and tap for the next bolt size and use a bolt with a copper washer. You have to get it square.

Or you can mail it to me.

Gif

[Robert Fisher]

Hmm, the bleed hole that’s stripped is on the side where there isn’t much metal around it. I could probably tap a slightly larger size, but not much. I might have to have somebody add some aluminum around this area to stiffen it up so the tapping process doesn’t bulge it out. I might try your MCP idea if the 1/8th isn’t much bigger than the standard screw. (Any idea what the standard screw size is?)

 

Here’s a crazy idea: could I just seal up this hole for good, and instead of bleeding air at the caliper could I bleed it at the master cylinder?

 

How much would you charge to fix this yourself?

 

[Walt Gifford]

If anyone works cheaper in the karting industry let me know I’ve got some work for them. Why don’t you post a pic.

[Robert Fisher]

 

[Robert Fisher]

So, this is probably the cheapest solution possible: I was planning on having somebody reinforcing the blue area right? Turns out that given the lack of rigidity I tapped it with a hammer a bit and now the threads engage the screw’s threads. Perhaps this was the initial problem: not a stripped thread but the area was bulged outward.  It might not be sealed though, I’ll install it in a few days and test it. If I don’t see any leaking from this area, I guess its good for now. I’ll probably get a new caliper soon anyway just to be safe, but assuming this holds a seal I’ll buy that new set of tires that I need first!

[Walt Gifford]

That thing is toast. Plan on suddenly losing all brake pressure. You can’t really hammer aluminum back and forth it gets crumbly and if it’s striped down in there you’re only grabbing threads at the weak opening. I could maybe tap it deeper but I don’t know if I could cut away enough to get a sealing surface. If you try to put that much aluminum weld on it, it will probably warp badly if it doesn’t melt in half. Designed obsolescence.

Gif

[Timothy Strawkas]

they make these in many sizes

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dBSE151%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3dBSE151%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0

[Timothy Strawkas]

I just read your last comment again, A “tap ” of the hammer!! really!! and you think its going to hold brake pedal pressure!! AXE IT! I know it hurts but hitting A wall is going to hurt more, or the other person you use as A brake.

[Robert Fisher]

OK, so my caliper is junk. I’d still like another option other than the arrows caliper though. How about using this bracket: https://cometkartsales.com/Brake-Caliper-Bracket.html

and using this caliper: https://cometkartsales.com/MCP-1375-SER-Rear-Red-Caliper-with-Pads.html

Or is this caliper too small?

[Timothy Strawkas]

This caliper with that bracket would be good. Have to have A 1/4 in rotor also.

https://cometkartsales.com/MCP-1375-Rear-Caliper-with-Pads.html

[Robert Fisher]

I like that yours is cheaper, but is there a downside to the one you posted?

[Timothy Strawkas]

not as fancy, its been the American mainstay caliper for yrs. I’ve never seen anyone use it on TAGs or shifters but I couldn’t see that being much of A problem as long as your not riding the brakes every corner.

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