[Ambrose Buldo]

Would be nice if there was an App, like we had for the Rotax. There is not even a chart in the Manual. Been running a 125 main, experimenting with a 128 as it get cooler. I was told these carbs are more or less set and forget. If you learn any more, please post. Would be nice to see usage of this engine in TAG Grow. It is pretty well engineered and so far reliable. It’ got a little more top end than the ROTAX, a dog on slow starts and respectibale in the middle.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Someone inquired about the Camera. I have been running a $70 Knockoff of Go-Pro, an SJCAM 5000. I run it “Naked” on the chin of my helmet. Reason I mount it there is that it allows me to see the MYCHRON 5 in the video.

I love the Mychron feature where it gives you the +/- segment splits for each corner. I find it to be very helpful.

[Ambrose Buldo]

[quote quote=84557] I don’t know if there are clubs beyond the state championship at E-Town. OVRP does have club racing, but a quick look at their site does seem to show “TaG or bust” as your senior options.
[/quote]

There is a club race at OVRP this Sat. You may want to check it out. Pretty good participation. I may run in Tag Masters, but it will be my 1st Kart race in years and 1st with the Ikart + Rok Engine Package. Not expecting to be super competitive, but should be quick enough safely stay out of the way. If they get my starter fixed in time, I may also practice/test on Friday. If you want to rent a Kart, Friday may be a good day to experience the new track.

I fully support the establishment of a less expensive, slower, less physicialy demanding class. A couple years ago, we informally tried to get a 100CC Class going at OVRP, but were no able to get more than a 1/2 dozen guys a couple times. At that point I was running the KPV Engine. A lot of the same advantages as the L2O6. With a restrictive pipe, similar perforamnce to the more common KT100. Unfortunuitly, did not have anyone to run with on a consistant basis and I and had to drink the Kool-Aid and Go TAG. I went with the Rotax, which is what was supported by the track at the time.

[Ambrose Buldo]

It is a shame Ocala Gran Prix, On-line shopping features are not enabled. Hopefully that will be addressed shortly. I know the engine is not common, but whoever can get a good on-line portal quickly could become the go-to place for ROK parts and Sevices

[Ambrose Buldo]

[quote quote=84298]Gene,

Am in same boat as you. The only thing I could find that seems to fit the bill is through full tilt karting at the englishtown raceway. I am headed there Saturday to speak to them and go round in circles on their tag kart. They seem to run more than just arrive and drive services.

I will ask about racing leagues etc. for us older farts (I am 47) and will let you know what they have to say.

[/quote]

DOM – You should check out OVRP if it is close to you. I plan on going up Next Tues or Friday for Pratice. On weekdays, there is lite attendance so we get plenty of track time. It typicially ends up being open track sessions 10 AM to 6 PM). You may want to consider Renting a TAG Kart From them. If they are Okay with it, maybe you take a few laps in my Kart. I hope to race the following weekend in there club race, in Masters (Old Guy) Class. It will me my first Kart race in awhile.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I agree the Rotax is becoming less relevant. It is probably caused by their crazy pricing, their Evo Upgrade mess and the disparity between motors they build. That’s why I jumped ship and traded my ROTAX Quasi-Evo in for the ROK. The X-30 was probably a safer bet, but it would of cost me much more to upgrade. Hope with OVRP supporting the ROK, it becomes more common.

OVRP always has used Karts for sale. Other folks mentioned other sources. Take a ride up to the track, they are open every day. I may go up, sometime during the week or next Sunday. OVRP has rentals availiable everyday except Mondays. Call them direct or hit ovrp.net.

At 53 YO, going to be racing in their “TAG Masters Class”. Hot sure how competitive I’ll be, but age-wise, I more than qualify.

If you buy a used engine as part of a package, you should make user you get a good deal. Treat the engine as having very little value unless it is brand new of fresh off a full rebuild by reputable builder.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Rotax 50Hrs on Standard Rebuild, $1450, had no issues, top end 25 hrs, half that price

Ran pump gas, Motol oil at 50:1, $17 per liter

Maybe another $400 between rebuilds. Reeds, matting, filters, sparkplugs, etc

Everything else is probably the same regadless of engine… Seat, tires, lube, chain, brakes, sprockets

Until something breaks, the Rotax is as reliable as a TAG engine gets. Then parts get expensive.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I was there was a strong LO206 or 100cc field at OVRP, but there is not. The engine package is more important than the chassis for support. If I went the LO206 Route, I’d be running alone or being a obsticial in the Tag sessions.

Yes, TAG Karts are fast and you are better off learning on a slower Kart, but if you intend to race or do at least competitive lapping, you need to take into consideration at least what your local track club series supports. At least in TAG, a Leopard competes against a Rotax which competes against x-30, which competes against a ROK. We were all on track Sunday, running more or less same lap times. Here is some just processed Video. iKart at OVRP

[Ambrose Buldo]

Thank for the great feedback. Already have had Chi Chi at OVRP order me a new coil wire and an 11 tooth Driver.

I would of traded in my Rotax for more common x-30 if I had a lettered cylinder head. I did not, so I went the ROK Trade in route ($1,200). I got to say I am very impressed with the engine. Been trouble free, seems well engineered, performs well. It is a gas guzzler compared to the Rotax.

Really hope support for the engine develops. I too spoke to the people at ROKCUP and they said an engine FAQ was being developed and posted soon. The manual is better than nothing, but really is a basic installation guide. They also mentioned they are working on dealer network. I few of us are now running the ROK GP, including TIM @ OVRP.

I am currently shopping a new engine mount for the ROK + Ikart.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I ended up going the Vortex ROK Upgrade Route as my Rotax Cyl was not lettered and thus not elidigable. So far, pretty happy. Seems well engineered and performace is good. Seems it is becoming a more common engine at the repaved/upgraded OVRP Facility. $1,200 trade-in vs a Rotax Rebuild is a no-brainer. Only downside of the ROK is we have to run leaded racing fuel vs pump gas for the Rotax.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I moved the seat back slightly (1/2″) in an effort to see if this helps with rear grip and addresses the Oversteer at the Apex evidenced in the Video. I am hitting the track (www.ovrp.net) this Friday, looking to see how it does. Just looking got a couple tenths before I park her for the winter.

https://youtu.be/Q91nvd-u1cI g

[Ambrose Buldo]

Like Charles, I am a big fan of the motorcycle gloves. They are much more durable, much less expensive and most importantly offer more protection. I don’t recall which model Cycle glove I am using (Think it was an on sale/Closeout Revzilla Sourced Glove).

It is perforated leather and had vents to help keep hands cool. It also has hard knucke and finger protection. If you go for a tumble, these will help save your skin and protect your bones. They are just as comfortable (Pre-Curved) as racing gloves with no diminished comfort and feel.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Just posted some Video from OVRP on Friday. Lap times were good and consistant. The end of the video shows best lap in Slow Mo. This is video from m favorite perspective the Chin Cam. You can see dash, hands and wheels well. Please ignor the hand gestures as they are just there to help me with the Video Processing later. Let me know what you see as the primary handleing charchertistic. From the seat I am feeling oversteer at the APEX as I need to make post apex corrections.

Thanks in advance.

https://youtu.be/Q91nvd-u1cI

[Ambrose Buldo]

I know this is Dan’s thread and it was started to talk about seat stiffness and it’s effect on handling. I kind of tagged on as we run the same Brand/Model Kart and in the off-season I too and going to switch over to the Ribtect XL Seat (Or Deepseat). I am very interested in seeing how Dan does, as it may help me when I make the switch.

Now that I have fresh tires on the Kart, now that it is re-aligned, now that I have reset everything to dealer spec, I have a solid baseline time (Almost equal to my fastest time). As I run the tires I pick up over-steer at the APEX, going to try to address that with my outing on Friday. After my baseline laps, I plan to switch over to new short hubs (75MM) from 115MM and continue to make one change at a time to see cause effect.

Thank you all for your input, it is appreciated.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I got to say I love the KartLift Protectors. I did not think they were going to be durable, but I am already on my 3rd season with them. Just optionally replaced the one under my nose as it cracked. It was still functional and I will never run a kart without them. They definitely add longevity to a frame.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Craig – Your feedback on the MG Yellow Tire Life expantancey is appreciated. If wearing one of tires in 3 lapping days is typicially, that’s OK. For practice, I may just rotate them side to side to try to help the budget a bit. I run these tires verses the more common MOJO’s specificially for the occasionial F-Seris/GearUp Race.

As per the video I posted above, in my view on fresh tires the ikart handles pretty well.

Just to show the difference, see video below, same setup, different track (Englishtown NJ), but worn tires. You can see what I believe is “Push/Kick” requiring a corner exit correction at every corner. These tires were a 1/2 season old so fully understandable that kart would not handle well. It is painful to watch, it is a night and day difference between this and video I posted above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF-pGLDcEnw

Just like Dan made the switch, I too would like to move to RibTect of Deepseat in the off-season.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Dan –

Re-aligned the Kart & loaded up last night. Went back to dealer recommended front end set-up (Below) as that proved fast on fresh tires. not too different then what I had. Settled on:
– Toe 0
– Neg Camber 2 Deg
– Caster – Neutral (5mm Hex)
– 1.5 Spacers Front width
– 3 washers (Bottom) Frt Ride Height

Hope you can make it tomorrow. Weather is supposed to be great. I would really like to see how I fit in your Ribtect XLT Seat, as I am considering the NON T Version for installation during the winter. Just love the feel, fit, shape, comfort and durability of those seats. Had one on my Intrepid.

My trailer is near pit out, White 16 footer with a #27 on the side. Will be ready to hit the track as soon as I can get someone to mount those new rear tires. I will be there by 10AM.

Regards,
Ambrose

[Ambrose Buldo]

Axle Slippage has been problematic with this Kart. I too, quickly resolved it with addition on Axle collers.

Kart is very quick on New Tires and I guess that is to be expected not sure if wearing outside right tire down to cords in 3 days is abnormal (CCW Rotation on track). I think the only way outside rear tire can be wearing excessively is if it sliding out while loaded in right hand turns. I think the biggest culprit is the double apex box turn just before the Start/Finish line. The outside tire is on the concrete thru the whole turn and that is probably pretty abrasive. If I run allot of laps on new tires, the rear grip reduces dramaticially by the end of the day.

It starts out with oversteer requiring correction post apex. When all the tires eventually go off, Kart goes into “Push/Kick” mode, requiring massive correction at exit of every corner.

I will be at OVRP on Friday, I will replace the rear tires and get a baseline time, hopefully close to my best. If I do that, I will take some of the same steps on front end that you did to lighten steering. First change I’ll make is going narrower. Then taking out toe.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I run an iKart with Rotax at OVRP. I also run the MG Yellow. I am disappointed that I can only get 3 days out of a set of MG Yellows. The RR (Out Side Tire) gets worn down to cords. The other 3 tires are in good shape. When the tire is worn, kart gets massive oversteer. This is the second consecutive set of new yellows where I have destroyed the RR.

At 205 with a Tillet XL, I run similar setup.
8.5 PSI cold
T-5 Axle
54-5/8 Rear width
Toe 0.5 mm in
Caster neutral
Camber 1 mm positive
Front width 1.5 spacers
Seat 25″ from frt tube
105 MM Med Log AU Hubs
Bar Tight, rear bumper loose, front bumper tight

Below is a video of my best lap in slowmo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4Dd3EjcBck

Any feedback? There is a little corner exit over-steer in left handrs.

I find the ikart steering to be excessively Heavy, may consider tying your front end setup.

For comfort issues I plan on switching to a Ribtect or a Deepseat. Intrested in seeing how it works out for you.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Thanks for the feedback… I had a few spare hours so I hit the Track this Morning (OVRP). It was an unplanned last minute thing, so I did not put new tires on, did not make a single change. On damp/cold track, ran competitively. The Corner Exit Oversteer was much less pronounced but you still see it.

Was just running some fun laps. Later in the day got much faster. Was playing with Camera Positions and the AIM Mychron 5. Love the big numbers and the predictive lap timing on the M5.

https://youtu.be/uKGk83hQJXI

[Ambrose Buldo]

TJ, you are very obserative. This the first time I have driven this track in years so you are spot on about not pushing it very hard. I was about a 1.5 sec off pace. Some of that was probably the tires some due some due to some conserativism this weekend.

I would write it off to lack of track knowledge and driving issues (Stop watch does not lie) but I have exactly the same issue at my home track (OVRP) and at that track my times are competitive. The corner exit oversteer is actually a little more pronounced there.

I think you are spot on with tuning with the old tires, expecially being a different compound. So, next weekend (New track to me as well) I will run 1st session on these old tires with same setup to replicate issue (I am sure I will). I will then switch over to the new tires, with no changes and use that as the baseline and adjust kart to what she is doing on the new tires.

If I experience the same issue, I will take your guidance and attempt to fix the oversteer via:

– Narrowing the rear by 5mm each side and see if I can get the outside rear tire to dig harder. I will keep the factory neutral front end setup intact.

Is 9-11 the hot target or cold starting point on MH Yellow?

When you say VERY low on entry, I think you are suggesting I am turning in too early. I’ll pay attention to that this weekend. That should be evidenced by tracking out too early. So sounds like I should be turning in later, being more aggressive on turn in, leaning more on the front tires at corner entry.

Thanks everyone for input… I find the video helps with processing changes.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Trying to decide if I take steps to add rear grip or take steps to add front grip. I think it may be a cause/effect thing where I am lacking front grip on entry and put allot of input in and past the apex I finially get front grip and the rear washes out and I need to correct. If this is the case, I think I should take steps to add front grip. If I don’t correct quickly I will slide off the track backwards but that correction scrubs off any speed I carried through the corner.

There is an interesting article here about push-kick or push-whip at link below:

http://www.kartpartsdepot.com/EXIT_OVERSTEER_KARTING_p/029.htm

[Ambrose Buldo]

Thanks for the feedback.

If you skip forward to the last lap of the race (About the 5:45 mark) you see I have this issue on exist of almost all the left hand corners. Seems to get worse the longer I run. Not sure because that is due to heat or due to fact I am pushing harder.

I am switching over to new MG Yellow for the next event, so did not spend too much time tuning on these old tires, but I don’t buy new tires every weekend, thus need to get this sorted. The MG will have more grip and being new, should also be more conistant.

I am running one strut each side. I don’t recall effect of running with Bar out, but I recall it was undrivable. I am told bar is only removed running in the wet.

[Ambrose Buldo]

You rental experance at Engishtown is consistant with what you will find elsewhere. Englishtown while smooth is demanding as you are constantly turning. Renting become expensive vey fast. Once you know you want to pursue it, and know what class you want to run in, you should buy a good used setup. I advise against going new on 1st kart as you will bend it or use it up eventually.

[Ambrose Buldo]

They have totally repaved and reconfiged OVRP in the Winter. Great Track. A real track with elevation changes. Grippy, fast, smooth and Challanging. They offer TAG Rentals as well. I may be up there later this week.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a L206 up there… Mostly TAG. Track was mostly Rotax, which is what we ran until a few weeks ago. Just switched over to the Vortax ROK as track now supports that brand. Most common Kart Brand is Tony Kart, Followed by Briel. Kart brand does not make much difference as most part most parts are interchangeable.

I’ve helped some friends get into the sport. $2,500 -$3,000 gets you a decent package. They all went Rotax, which is probably the lowest safest bet if going TAG.

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