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    • #62538
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Clutch is for kt100? How many disks?

    • #62502
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Not exactly free….but members of SMKA are given the code to the locks and can use the track just about anytime they want to.

      Santa Maria Karting association http://www.SMKA.org

      Santa Maria, California

    • #40951
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Santa maria uses the RLV3 pipe also. smka.org. fastech-racing sells the kit for just under $200

    • #38615
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      http://WWW.SMKA.ORG

      KT100 was the largest class we had last year so that’s what I’m racing this year.

      Clone, Animal and PRD Fireball are waiting in the wings…

    • #37590
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      I have the same starter.

      http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Battery-NAPA-Legend-Premium-Lawn-Garden-12-Wet/_/R-NBD8229_0213748419

       

      Napa P# 8229 the Lawn and Garden Battery is what I have in mine. $50

      Starts my KT100, Animal and PRD Fireball(when needed).

       

    • #36908
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Nick, most racing classes have a minimum weight that you have to meet when you come off the track. They are set so that most everyone will have to add weights to meet the minimum.

      Also, while you might not have a shop with in 30mins of you…you are in a very central location for karting. LA has several shops and clubs. Bakersfield has a club…not sure if there is still a shop…and Santa Maria also has a club…no shop…but most of the members are very willing to help out new people. Lancaster has/will have a club also.

      My suggestion would be to mount the seat per the chassis manufacture recommendations. Then get a TON of seat time.
      Sebastian, As long as you have enough clearance for the motor and/or clutch you can move the right side seat mount if you need to.

    • #35968
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Spark plugs came with the lever strap and I already have the TriFlow(My preferred chain lube)

    • #35963
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      I replaced the busted lever strap and the drum/cover seal only. But when I disassembled the clutch I did notice that the pins were rough, so they will be on the list of items that get replaced when I rebuild it.

    • #35962
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Thanks, that’s the kind of info I was hoping for.

    • #35859
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Posted by Brian in another thread;

      You may want to put some teflon tape on the needles for you carb, that will help seal it up.  Those carbs always pumped too much at the top, and not enough at the bottom, the high speed can be closed down quite a bit, and the bottom opened quite a bit. if your bogging off a turn, your lean, open it up.  If you 4 cycle down the chute, lean out the high speed.  Check the plug or head to see if your too rich or lean.  You want a nice coffee color tending to grey.  Grey is too lean, black too rich.

      And clarify that it’s the Inlet needle (seat) that’s leaking.

       

    • #35791
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Brian, Thanks for the response!

      I’ve been karting for about 6 years now…this is just my first time dealing with the kt’s and wet clutches.

      Yes the Horstman is a DXL…but it’s toothless (needs a new drum…) so I haven’t even touch it yet…

      The L&T, even with the busted  lever strap, was engaging enough to turn 14k. I got the tools I needed and a new lever strap…put it back together just so I  can race next month.

      Thanks for the carb info that’s the kind of stuff I need to learn.

    • #35720
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Downloaded the data from the MyChron to the laptop and realized that the 16k rpm wasn’t accurate…graph had some wild highs and lows. The 14k runs look a lot smoother so those I trust.

      Also rechecked the pop off. The carb popping off at 11 leaks really bad. I get one good pop and then it never re-seats itself and leaks out all the pressure. Tried several needles old and new…no change…other then blowing it out with air, is there anything I can do…or is this body done…?

      FYI..I’m filling the seat with WD40.

      The other carb I have pops off at 8 and drops down to 4 no leaking…guess which one goes back on the motor???

    • #35686
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      What type of Auto tranny was the old fords? Clutch?
      I have lots of synthetic ATF…Mobile 1 for my Allison.

      Pulled the cover off and a set of weights fell out…lever strap broke.
      Friction disk and floater still have some life left in them and should get me through the last race of the season in Nov.

      Not sure if I’m going to use a wet clutch or switch over to a dry…

      Thanks for the help!

    • #35052
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      I race at the Santa Maria track.

      I found some type f and put that in.

    • #35008
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Fastech is out of L&T, they suggested using ATF Pennzoil Type F

      From my limited research it looks like Horstman oil has been replaced by Nytro Clutch Coolant

       

      Lompoc

    • #34998
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Freddy

      I have a horstman 3disk 4 spring

      and an

      L&T, 3 disk 4 spring(I think…?)

      KT100 pipe. A2X and A3…for now…       Club runs a RLV3 so that’s what I have to built too.

      and I’m going across the scale at around 410lbs

      The L&T is currently on the motor but it needs fluid and I don’t know what was in it before I got it. Sooner than later it will get rebuilt…I just want to get something in there so I can run it this weekend.

       

      Thanks

    • #34986
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Bump…’cause I think this is a great idea!

      When I started karting with the grandson I didn’t know anyone at the local track and they didn’t have an arrive-n-drive (They do now). We drove 4hrs (1 way) so he could try a kart before I bought one.

       

    • #32220
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Thank You LAKC and RLV!

    • #31908
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Will it start with an external starter?

      What carb are you using?

      Can you see fuel moving in the line while cranking?

      Reason’s my PRD didn’t start….

      1) Wire connections at starter loose. The crimps looked tight but they weren’t…

      2) Wire rubbed against chassis and grounded.

      3) Air filter boot torn.

      4) carb settings too lean.

    • #28648
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant
    • #27041
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      In Ventura a karting school

      http://www.jimhallkartracing.com/

      In Santa Maria another track you might want to check out. They have rental karts also…just call/email ahead. Monthly Club race is this Sunday, 11 May.

      http://www.smka.org/

    • #20790
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      http://www.smka.org/id19.html

      Rotax race with the TAGs at Santa Maria.

    • #20788
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      Did you see that there’s going to be a swap meet?

    • #20156
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      I wouldn’t say the PRD is less reliable…but I would agree that the Leopard is a stronger motor.

      PRD cost less.

      Some tracks have a spec PRD class.

    • #18261
      Lawrence Doty
      Participant

      If the local track is running the L206 then that is what I would set-up for my kid(s).

      While it may seam like a lot of work to a new karter to switch from a 2cycle to a 4 cycle it’s really not. AND You will learn a lot about the chassis doing the work yourself.

      Changing an axel, for the first time, at the track, between heats…with a very young driver watching you…hoping that you can get it changed in time…isn’t fun!  Been there done that…

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