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    • #104271

      Any movement on this Robert?

      All I have to say, I have no problems running in the snow as long as I can get a few test laps in.  We have a new cooling system to try.  At least we should figure out if cold weather helps or not LOL!

      Looking forward to it.  I’ll keep an eye on this for updates.

    • #88138

      So, if any are wondering, here is what was in my carb…

      Needle: K22, clip position 2

      Atomizer: DQ 268

      Inner Pilot: B45

      Outer Pilot: 50

      Main Jet: 150

      Air Screw: 2 turns

       

      Also, I found my floats were sitting way too low in the bowl.  I’m guessing that was my main issue, even with the pilot circuit being a little lean.  I have the B2 float system currently, and their guide states the lowest point of the float should be 11mm from the mounting face of the float bowl.  It was more like 15mm.  I think that was the major cause of the lean engine and the stuck piston.

      I noticed no one talks much about the float needle and seat, or the slide profile.  My needle and seat are a 300 and the slide is a 50.  Is that pretty standard, or should I look into others?

      Thanks

    • #87922

      Hey Robert,

      Track day was a bummer for me, but luckily it turned out to be a decent day to run and I was happy for the opportunity to get a few laps in, even if I got more in the truck with pops drying the track!  That was pretty fun actually.  Once I showed him the race line, and he got to enjoy those blind turns, I think he may have gotten the itch!  Probably not a kart, but I think he’ll be driving that track in something soon!

      Count me in for April.  2 day event would be awesome, if I can keep an engine together!  Thank you for the day, and I also want to thank the guys I was able to bounce some ideas off of after I stuck it.  Hopefully I’ll get more than a few laps in next year!

      H

    • #87920

      Thanks Glenn for all your input.  I have been doing some homework, starting to compile data.  Both from the interwebs and from a couple friends that run TM’s pretty successfully.  Hope I can get a decent base tune, and be able to put some hours in, take notes, and learn what I need to adjust.

      Thanks again, and if I have any more questions I’ll be sure to reach out.

    • #87829

      So Glenn if I am reading this correctly, your running a 16:1 mix ratio.  That’s the heaviest I have heard of yet, but if it works, it works.  Most all of the info I have been able to find claim 20:1 for break in, about 6oz to the gallon, and thinning oil out a bit for racing.  I guess as long as you jet accordingly, there shouldn’t be much issue.  Do you have any problems with fouling plugs being that rich with oil?

      I have a friend that does well, with a ICC engine and the Delorto carb, and he was running a 140 main to be safe on our day.  Temp was mid to upper 40’s.  I haven’t asked him yet, but rumor is he runs 40:1 mix ratio, which is less than 1/2 of what you’re doing.  I’ll try to see if I can get a little info out of him and find out his actual gas mix.

      Talk about variables lol.

    • #87791

      Also, what gas mix ratio do you recommend?  I’ve been running 20:1 using 110 race gas and Klotz Super Techniplate.  Some guys at the track suggest I switch to the more castor based R50.

      Then, I’ve also read these engines are meant to run on pump gas, 93 octane.  Guess I figured the higher octane wouldn’t hurt, especially getting rid of the alcohol content.  Would running the race gas hurt me at all?

       

    • #87790

      Thanks Glenn for your reply.  Now as far as jetting to piston clearance, would I be correct in assuming I would want more fuel to keep a tighter piston better lubricated?

      Also, I edited my original post to make it easier to read.  Sorry something happened when I copied all of that from my text document.

    • #87403

      I haven’t looked at the link yet, but from what I gather, our sport could be in some pretty serious trouble.

      Check should be to you early next week.  Sorry I kept forgetting to stop at the mail box last week.

      Some of us, like me, didn’t come out this April.  Do you by chance have a copy of the ‘Pre Track Prep List’ you could either post somewhere or email me?

      H

    • #87342

      Robert, I’m going to ask a potentially silly question, but what does that insurance cover?  Guess I never really paid much attention to that side of things, but knowing my luck, thought I’d better ask!  I have health insurance through work, but I guess I’ve never looked up to see if it covers events like this.

    • #87133

      Hey Robert,

      Finally got around to getting the kart sorted out.  Looking pretty positive that we’ll be able to make it.  Ordered parts and hopefully I can get it fired up next weekend.  The fam says Hi back, and now sister is married and hopefully bringing her husband.  Time we got him hooked!

      Check will be in the mail Monday.

      I love these track days.  Hope you keep them up!

      H

    • #86882

      Greg,  you do have a point.  I had contracted a good friend to start this build.  He has been racing his whole life and built several karts, and assured me this would be a good way to go, without having to spend a ton on a brand new chassis.

      I need to get myself back into the build and see what I have and see if it’ll be worth continuing on as is.  I am not super competitive.  I just like going out and putting some laps down.  If I can work this chassis and have fun, I will.  If it seems to be too tough to get what I want out of it, I’ll start looking at other options.  If you have any tips or insight that would help me out, it would be much appreciated.

    • #86815

      Wow, trying to catch up on all this, I missed a LOT!

      Glad to see you’re doing well Robert, and was happy to talk with you the other day.  After that conversation, both me and pops took that Friday off, but looks like you made the change to Sunday.  Either way were ready and I’ll get a check in the mail this week.

      If there’s anything we can do in the mean time, let us know and we’ll do what we can to help out.

    • #86813

      Well that was the reason for my purchasing the TM.  I have a chassis that’s in the process of completing the transformation to a lay down.  Thought I would get more inspired to finish it if I had the power plant.  Well, last season I put it in the GP to have some fun with and learn it a bit, and then it blew.  Maybe this winter I can make some headway on it.  I jumped into karting with that GP and running with the CIK guys just isn’t quite my speed.  Plus, my friends that I race with are F125 guys so I would like to go run with them.

      Well, I don’t want to muddy the tech forum with this kind of talk.  I’m just happy I was able to find some insight on my engine abnormalities.  If you want to talk further about racing, please feel free to send me a pm.

      Thanks guys!

    • #86804

      The idea of the piston collapsing did cross my mind.  Wish I had more areas I could measure on it.  It was pretty beat up.  I wouldn’t doubt that with as hot as things must have got that it could deform that piston.

      As for the F-125, I’m going back and forth if I should continue that rout, or stay simple and go with a KT100 to get my feet wet in the enduro group.  Either way, I’ll be racing mostly in Michigan and tracks near by.  I think starting next season we’ll have better provisions to be able to travel further for a race, so I’m hoping to hit VIR, Road America, Watkin’s Glen, Daytona, Mid Ohio, and many of the other awesome tracks across this country, probably not all in the same year though.

      Where do you run Brian?  Are you an enduro racer?

    • #86737

      Yes, a bore gauge is optimal for measuring the ID of my cylinder, however at the moment I don’t have one..  For now I’m ok using my telescoping gauge and mic to get an idea.  All of the measurements I took were all within .0005″ of each other.  Close enough to get an idea of what I’m starting with.

      Also yes, I know the cylinder will need a hone, and the size will change, but my goal with this measurement was to get an idea of what the original piston clearance was, so when the cylinder is cracked checked, honed, and measured, I’ll know what piston size I need.  Once I saw there was a .010″ gap, that threw up a red flag and my reason for posting.  And it’s nice to know that what I found about proper piston gap is correct.  Just seems odd that this supposedly being a DDR engine that hadn’t been raced sense the last rebuild that they would have used a piston that small.

      Thanks for all your replies thus far!

    • #79118

      One of the guys I run with recommended that mixture.  He’s been racing for a long time, and really fast on the track.  Usually either first or second in his class. I tend to listen to what he says.  I always forget to ask him about the no smoke issue I have, and when I see him next I’ll be sure to bring it up.

      But with the heavier oil mix, it seems like I should be seeing more smoke than I do.  I’ll get access to my notes and carb tomorrow and report back what I find out.

    • #69832

      [quote quote=69592]My wrist pin circlip decided it wanted to break in half this weekend, and damage the cylinder, VHM flat top piston and head insert on my K9b. So I am in the same boat as Anthony, my rules also allow mixed homologation. I am thinking about doing the KZ10c cylinder, VHM FT piston, and KZ10c pipe. [/quote]

      Daniel,

      Can I ask why you run the flat top piston?  From my understanding changing piston design can change the dynamics on the engine in a negative way unless you also change head shape and possibly the pipe dimensions.  That’s what kept me from running the RS piston in my Honda 125.  Do you get better results with the flat top?  Seems like with a bigger combustion chamber you would have less compression so less potential power.

      Now I have another dilemma.  I was just offered a fresh complete K9c with all the running gear and a spare cylinder is included. That would pretty easily give me 2 engines ready to rock.  Now I can decide if it’s worth going that rout, or upgrading my top end to the KZ10b/c to get the better power and more current parts.  Cost either way would probably be the same.

    • #69767

      Pm sent

    • #69649

      Ok, makes sense.

      Another question I have is about the reed cage.  I think I have heard that the new style will fit into the k9.  Can you confirm this?  Is it worth changing up to the supposed better flowing design?

      Thanks again

    • #69602

      [quote quote=69593]I wouldn`t worry about ignition, if the insert got damaged you can just replaced the insert. up to the kz10c the inserts are interchangeable, the c is all different. [/quote]

      What do you mean when you say the c is all different?  Different combustion chamber design or that the insert won’t fit into older heads?  Or am I just reading this wrong?

    • #69553

      Glenn this does help.  When you say timing is the same for the most part, is it close enough to not have to switch to the newer ignition?

    • #67833

      There will be me and dad, possibly mom on Friday. However, knowing our past history we will grab my lady after work and go get some grub together so don’t worry about us food wise.  Looking forward to see all you guys next week!  Hopefully I’ll be up and running in time.

    • #64871

      Thanks all for the help.  From the info I have been able to gather here so far I have 3 different starting points to try, and they are all pretty similar so it sounds like you guys must be on the right track.

       

      Matt, I tried that app that you suggested and that threw out some very different set ups.  I think for now I’ll stick with what everyone has said here.

       

      Couple more things.  I see there are different needle seat assemblies available for this carb.  Do any of you adjust this from what came with it?  Also, should I be looking at different floats?  Seems like I was looking at a tuning guide a couple days ago that has talked about different floats and making sure they are set properly.  I’ll have to see if I can dig that up again.

    • #64849

      Matt,

       

      Thank you so much for the app and the link.  I read through that and made tons of notes.  I road race too so it was nice to see some info specific to that.

       

      One thing I don’t see covered is the slider.  I see TS Racing offers a 50, 55, and 60 slider.  At over $100 each I’d like to know which one most poeple run and what the differences are.

       

      Thanks again!

    • #64322

      Glenn, this does help.  Thank you!

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