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Viewing 25 posts - 26 through 50 (of 140 total)
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  • in reply to: CRG Chassis and Sniper Camber / Caster adjutment #83912
    William Martin
    Participant

    To the best of my eyeball & calliper accuracy, it looks like 6mm. This being the old/original model Sniper unit, doubt if the grid has changed with newer units.

     

    in reply to: sunnen mandrel #83811
    William Martin
    Participant

    You might want to check out the SN & JN series of portable hones, not quite so expensive. Not cheap either, but maybe half the cost. I bought an SN-75 model some 20 years ago, for 100cc cast iron cylinders, it works great. Just need a big 1/2 inch drill to turn it.

     

    in reply to: Pavesi Parts – 125cc shifter #83789
    William Martin
    Participant

    I can tell you it is not the same as the TM shift arm, I’ve seen them side-by-side.

     

    William Martin
    Participant

    Can you post pictures of the caliper bores? Let’s see if they can be saved…or just need to be replaced. Stuff that sits a long time with brake fluid in it doesn’t do too well…

     

    in reply to: sunnen mandrel #83787
    William Martin
    Participant

    A mere $401 in my 1997 catalog… ugh. Glad you found it!

     

    William Martin
    Participant

    Do the brakes work? If it’s been sitting for a long time, as it looks, the best thing you can do is tear down the entire chassis and clean/inspect everything as you put it back together. New seals all around, engine and brakes would be a good start!

     

    in reply to: sunnen mandrel #83554
    William Martin
    Participant

    What’s the bore size? Somewhere I think I have a Sunnen catalogue…years old, but still ok for this I think.

    -bill

    in reply to: CR125 Bottom end rebuild #83209
    William Martin
    Participant

    This all depends on how experienced you are in general with small engines. If you are used to working on high performance stuff, the only thing I would suggest is that you take the crank/rod assembly to a shop that can do the rebuild, or just buy that assembly new from a Honda bike shop. It’s kind of tricky stuff, aligning the two crank halves and pressing together…buy some experience, you won’t regret it. The rest you should be able to handle. You will need to do a thorough cleaning/flushing of the crankcase to get the various other bits of metal out that may be hiding in there some place. If you don’t have the Honda cr125 manual, get one and read it before you dive into this! Probably you will want to replace crank main bearings while it is apart, much cheaper than after one lets go…

     

    in reply to: Is SKUSA moving away from the stock Honda? #82744
    William Martin
    Participant

    Hmm, well, change happens. Usually somebody’s ox gets gored in the process, hope Tom can pull off a good compromise when the time comes.

     

    in reply to: Is SKUSA moving away from the stock Honda? #82617
    William Martin
    Participant

    Well, I sure don’t know, but that would be about the same as shooting off both feet…unless the supply of Honda engines became zero, that sounds like a silly idea.

    in reply to: Shifter kart from a dirt oval kart #81271
    William Martin
    Participant

    You would be BOSS on every left turn… :-)

     

    in reply to: CR125 Wiring help #81124
    William Martin
    Participant

    What colour are the wires that appear to be cut? Almost no one connects the kill switch, it’s possible that they are the ones not connected…otherwise, hunt for dirty connector pins/sockets, wiggle one wire at a time and see if it cuts out…that’s your best clue without real test equipment. Check all ground connections, coil to engine case and chassis…sometimes a dirty ground is just perverse! You can find wire colors in the Honda manuals, maybe on line, haven’t looked though. Sometimes a stator coil connection vibrates ‘loose”, still there but intermittent. Some disassembly required!

    in reply to: How interchangeable are rotors and other parts? #80690
    William Martin
    Participant

    I have one from about that vintage, for parts you might try Russell Karting, (russellkarting.com) they are the Parolin contact for USA. There isn’t anything unique about non-floating brake rotors, the mounting pattern is kind of standard, just measure the diameter and thickness of the rotor and match that with the new one. Now someone will point out a pathological case! Plenty of places to find bolt-on rotor guards, just realize that nothing is bullet proof, if you hit it with a big enough bullet!

    in reply to: Thanks! #79988
    William Martin
    Participant

    That’s really neat!

     

    in reply to: Use Yamaha KT100 pipe on HPV/KPV engine? #79823
    William Martin
    Participant

    Interesting thought, I expect it is off the beaten path enough that you just have to try it & see. Keep the carb extra-rich until you know how much torque you are getting from the FY pipe. I expect it is a wide, as in non-peaky power band, which is good for an experiment. Not as likely to melt a piston as a peaky pipe! If you have an egt gage on your HPV, it will tell a lot about how to tune for that pipe.

    Best of Luck,

    Bill

    in reply to: Caster – how to measure #79439
    William Martin
    Participant

    I seem to remember some kind of chart/plate that goes with the Sniper Laser system that measures caster angle. It gets attached to the steering shaft if I remember it correctly. Somewhere on the center line of the chassis at any rate…

    in reply to: Cornering Question #79419
    William Martin
    Participant

    I think the best driving style for anyone depends a lot on the physical talents they have. If you have Schumacher-like talent, you can likely go faster by being slightly “over the edge”, which is what I think you were describing. For the rest of us, backing off a bit will pay better dividends! Not to mention less crashes…

    Bill M

    in reply to: Kart rental at Go Karts Race in Burlingame #78510
    William Martin
    Participant

    Did the seat fit you well? If it’s too loose a fit, all manner of discomfort can happen…

     

    in reply to: honda head gasket + o-ring #78418
    William Martin
    Participant

    That’s part of what makes your engine “mod”, as opposed to stock. It’s there to keep the extra compression your engine has from blowing past the stock head gasket. I would use Viton for that o-ring, it gets hot where it is located.

    in reply to: CR125R Shifter no spark (CDI Box bad) test #78039
    William Martin
    Participant

    Has it worked before? I ask only because it isn’t the correct CDI for your engine… how about trying a stock Honda box, to isolate the problem between the Honda stator and the aftermarket CDI box?

    Bill M

    in reply to: Trail Brake and Throttle #76818
    William Martin
    Participant

    I suspect it’s the clutch…you can’t make money as a “school” if the parts have to be replaced too frequently…and I don’t see a big advantage to the technique. Just hammer the gas a tiny bit earlier, and I think it works out about the same. Unless you have an engine that loves to stall!

    in reply to: Towing Kart Trailer #76796
    William Martin
    Participant

    In California, yes, 55mph while towing. Try not to get run over by the BIG trailers going 70+! No idea about the choice of tow vehicle, it does seem kind of wimpy for towing though.

     

    in reply to: Adjustable Thermostat (?) #76269
    William Martin
    Participant

    Does the knurled ring turn?

     

    in reply to: Running an enduro kart without bodywork #75358
    William Martin
    Participant

    It was about .7 seconds, but that was just between old-style & newest TopKart plastic. Gotta try a Jim Hall style sucker fan someday! :-) Where do you put that on a kart?

     

    in reply to: Delete #74305
    William Martin
    Participant

    “One very fast HPV 4, complete package, mount, carb, filter and box, pipe, clutch (need a new driver, all the teeth are gone )”

    Dude must be really old.. :-)

     

Viewing 25 posts - 26 through 50 (of 140 total)