[Tim Koyen]

Nope, never have changed a TCI as preventive maintenance.  I have changed them when there was a loss of RPM or other ignition problems.  I’ve also seen new ones that were bad, which is why I don’t change them unless there is a problem.

[Tim Koyen]

Ken,

You’ll probably get about 100 people to come on here and tell you to go with the Kosmic, since its an OTK product and without a doubt the hottest chassis make right now, BUT the Haase kart can be fast too.  Who is around to support the brand in your area is probably more important to you.  If there is a Haase or Kosmic dealer that is friendly and willing to help you get it dialed in and get you access to parts at a fair price, then that should play a key role in your decision.

Best of luck!

[Tim Koyen]

Tom,

I’ve never found that to be a concern, as the front of the kart just “hangs” free on most stands.

[Tim Koyen]

Still Available.  New Price: $1900.00.

[Tim Koyen]

Tom,

There is nothing wrong with how you are setting it.  Today’s soft chassis will get a huge change from the stand to the ground (especially a 28mm at the weight you’re running).  Its all relative.  On the stand or on the ground, you’re still making an adjustment relative to where you were before.  Some people make all their adjustments with the kart on the scales.  Nothing wrong with that either, if that’s how you always do it.  If you’re going to set it on the ground, the surface needs to be perfectly flat, which is why they do it on the scales (they can also see the weight changes as well).  Just don’t set it on the pit road and assume its flat…its not.  Small changes in level when the kart is loaded can make a big change in caster/camber and weights.

[Tim Koyen]

Sometimes being so “over the top” on the front setup, like you have now, can cause the kart to push.   I’d agree with TJ though, the kart probably isn’t pushing, or it could be pushing initially, then snapping loose and causing the driver to counter steer, which is the only logical way the inside front tire can lift.

Your front end setup is what I would call Max Front Grip.  Obviously the balance between the front and the rear of the kart isn’t there right now.  Go back to more of a baseline setup in the front and re-evaluate the setup.  Maybe a seat position change is necessary.  Is the inside rear tire lifting quickly or dropping quickly?…or even lifting at all?  How much wheel input is necessary to induce lift?

You kinda need to evaluate these things in terms of sequence.  Whats happening and when?

[Tim Koyen]

Jim – He just points at it…lol.  When TJ was younger and I wanted him to do more on-track carb adjustment, he would always say that he was, but I knew he was afraid to, so he would “pretend” to turn the needles, or just point at them.   I’ll leave it to him to explain what he does now. :)

[Tim Koyen]

Nick,

Our seats (DeepSeat) are mean to be trimmed to height to prevent the problem of it being too tall.  Either way, the seat you have is too big.

[Tim Koyen]

I flush the bearings, gears, engine, and rotating things with starting fluid.  Wipe everything else down with WD40.  Avoid brake cleaner on anything powder coated.

[Tim Koyen]

As TJ mentioned, we learned our tuning craft the hard way, but we always got lots of advice from some of the best along the way.  TJ had been racing for years and had a good amount of success, but he had a year that he spent a ton of time with Jamie Sieracki at FMS that helped take his driving to another level.  Getting coaching from someone you respect can move a driver over plateaus in his skillset.  I highly recommend a coaching day anytime you feel like you’re stuck.

When it came to kart setup, we learned it together, at track, for many hours, but that’s “how we roll”, as they say.   Some people have more money than time, so they hire someone who has already put in the time.  There’s nothing wrong with that.  Some people are good with numbers and making bucks.  Numbers make my head hurt.  I’m more of the outdoorsy type, so I’d rather wrench on it than figure out how pay someone to do the same.

I’ve always felt that our chassis were good, or I wouldn’t waste my time/money racing it. The karts we’ve run along the way, were the same karts anyone else could buy.  Maybe its different in Europe, I don’t know.

When it comes to engines, I’ve always applied the same philosophy that my friend and past 100cc engine builder, Kevin Nelson, would use.  When I asked him if a particular engine was a good one, he would say “you’re not going to lose the race because of it.”  In other words, a good, or even great engine, will probably not win the race for you, but a bad engine can certainly lose it for you.  Have good, solid, reliable engines, and work on the things that matter most, like kart setup and driving.  That doesn’t mean that buying a good proven engine isn’t worthwhile, as it usually is.  It just means its usually not your biggest problem.

“Team” drivers or sponsored drivers usually have one big benefit working for them.  The Team has a lot of knowledge about kart setup and they can draw on the efforts of other racers to share that knowledge across the team.  It gets everyone up to speed quicker when there are 4 of you testing instead of just one.

[Tim Koyen]

I would say that too soft of a rear axle (or rear setup) is causing the cycling.

[Tim Koyen]

Hi Nick,

It sounds like you are just a little bruised up.  I manufacture a rib protecting seat called DeepSeat.  Same principle as the Ribtect, just a little different shape.  Anyway, we produce our seats with the trim removable so you can trim your seat to fit you better.  Many people trim off an inch or more from the top of our seats to make them more comfortable.  Our trim just slide back on then.

In any case, it sounds like your seat is just plain too big, and I would highly recommend a good quality ribvest.

Best of luck,

Tim

http://www.deep-seat.com

 

[Tim Koyen]

FWIW…this is already illegal in many orgs, including WKA & USPKS.

[Tim Koyen]

Super.  Another new FL karting series.  I need to move by business down there since there seems to be an endless supply of karter $$$.

[Tim Koyen]

David- there would be more posts if you handed out BEEF SANDWICHES with every 10 posts.  Just saying…

 

[Tim Koyen]

I just go to the auto parts store and get the fiberglass cloth/resin kit for repairing boats & cars.  Always worked good for me.  Like any fiberglass job, getting all the extra resin out and the cloth nice and smooth before it hardens are key.

[Tim Koyen]

Glad to hear there was some new blood.  Cole seems to have a good analysis of it.  There is no one problem.  Its a lot of things combined to work against it.  There is another reason that I believe is a big factor in all karting events, and it often gets overlooked.

So much of sprint karting is based on “Teams” of drivers/mechanics/shops, because so many people buy into karting instead of learning to wrench themselves.  There is nothing wrong with this, but teams and shops put together Programs based on following specific series, where they can attempt to make a profit.  Unless you can convince the big Teams to put RIGP (or any race) on their program, and get them to push racers into it, all you’ll get is the mom and pop guys.  Nothing against the mom and pop guys, I’m one of them, but we’re a dying breed.  Most people don’t want to take the time to learn all the BS in karting that you need to be a winner, they’d rather pay someone to do it for them.  Hence the big teams.  No big teams at your event and IMHO, its impossible to be really successful.

The series’ that I’ve been associated with, talk constantly about what it takes to keep the shops and teams wanting to participate, because they are the sellers of your event to a large market.  Teams bring racers.  Racers bring more racers.  You can’t have big events without big teams anymore.  I don’t have all the answers on how to keep the teams coming back, but they are the “recommenders” of the sport.  If they don’t recommend to their customers that they participate, and offer to support them, then its unlikely the racers will attend on their own.

[Tim Koyen]

I’m curious how many new people tried the Rock this year?  It seems like mostly the same racers every year.  Obviously that will eventually run out.  I’m sure the promoters are doing everything they can think of to bring in new racers, but maybe the market just isn’t there anymore.  Perhaps the economics of the race still work at these numbers and it’ll just continue on status quo?

Does anyone thing the Modesto disaster had a negative impact on RIGP?  Earlier this year, I thought maybe the Modesto race would help bring back the prestige and excitement of the street races.

I know Rock Island is a cool race, and I know they treat their competitors well, but there are soooo many other options right now, and many of them are just as cool and their promoters treat the racers just as well.

[Tim Koyen]

Just make sure you get a 2010 or later certified model.  The certifications are good for 10 years, so a 2005 cert will only be good another year.

My son has painted many helmets and he always complains about how flimsy the stuff on the Bell is.  His choice is Arai.  They are light and high quality.  They can be pricey though.  He also has a nice Sparco carbon fiber one, but its still heavier than the Arai.

[Tim Koyen]

USPKS announced earlier this year that they and Route 66 are going to the 7.10 for juniors in 2015.  The 6.0 tire is made really for the US market, and there doesn’t seem to be a real reason to keep it around.  Just more of a pain for shops and karters to have more rims and tires in stock.

I don’t know anything about the WKA rumor, but if the trend continues as it has, they will follow USPKS.

[Tim Koyen]

MG yellows at 20psi will probably not slide.  Try 10psi.

[Tim Koyen]

The engine side painted strut should generally not be moved.  Its the other side that you will bend inward.  Using axle as a lever is a good method.  Get it so there is about 1/4″  of space between the struts and the seat, unless the seat is really small, then more is acceptable.  Put a large (2″) steel washer against the seat for protection, then fill the remaining gap with plastic spacers, if possible.  If not, then washers will work.

The other struts that are not painted are probably chromed steel and not aluminum.  These should be bent individually so they just touch the seat and are the mounting tabs are parallel to the seat so there is no stress on them normally.  When the kart flexes, these will pull and push on the bearing cassettes.  These can easily be bent in a vise or with a mallet.  Take your time, this is important.

[Tim Koyen]

I would second what Kirk said.  We did exactly the same thing when we ran OTK.  Its pretty challenging with the Rotax, but it can be done.  The adjustable strut that bolts into the side of the bearing cassette fits pretty nice, but they break too easily.  Need to watch them closely.

[Tim Koyen]

Man Cup replaced it with the Can again starting in Daytona.

[Tim Koyen]

Before trying to understand what your customers want, you need to first define who your customers are.

If your customers are pro level dirt racers, they want something different than club level sprint racers.  Determine what your market is, then ask them what makes a great event.

[Author]

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