[Tim Koyen]

According to the EKN article linked above, Ron White is providing trackside support for the racers, but CRG Nations, which appears to still be K1, is still the importer.

[Tim Koyen]

Is this the one you tried to wrap around a mountain?…or the one you bought to replace said Mountain Trailer?

Year, make, price?

Thanks.

[Tim Koyen]

Hey, why don’t you go ruin someone else’s business????  Just kidding. :)

I always surmised that the manufacturers would prefer that you wear out the chassis, so you’ll buy another.  At least that seemed like the obvious reason that they don’t build in frame protection.  Also, it adds cost.

Not everyone is a master fabricator, so handing them a hunk of 3/32 aluminum would be pointless.  Kind of like handing me a scientific calculator….although I could make a doorstop out of that.

[Tim Koyen]

And just to clarify, the heat isn’t affecting the material your kart is made of, it’s creating much more grip in the tires, which is what is making the kart handle poorly.

[Tim Koyen]

I just use that dense foam flooring crap they sell you in big 2′ squares.  Its dirt cheap and works well.  Either glue it in, or duct tape.  Shoo goo glue works very well, but its permanent.

[Tim Koyen]

This is a complex subject that was covered recently in another thread…which I will look for.

The “top teams” sell the karts after a weekend for a simple reason, that’s when used karts are worth the most.

All karts wear out over time.  TonyKarts are no exception.  The part that wears the most is the waist of the kart, from grinding on the track.  While there is no real evidence that flat spotting of the frame adversely affects the kart handing, it can be prevented by running skid plates.  Tonykarts may be more susceptible to this problem than some makes, as the frames flex a lot, which is part of what makes them good.

I’ll now hand this topic over to my son TJ, as he enjoys answering this one on a monthly basis.

[Tim Koyen]

If its like the ones that come up in an ebay search for “kart radiator” (they all look pretty much alike), then I can tell you that I’ve used one of these before to race Tag.  It worked fine, but you can pretty much assume that you will break one or more of the mounting tabs off on the first weekend.  Once you accept that, and reinforce all the tabs (ahead of time), it actually cools just fine.  Some of the series we race have a tendency to destroy radiators, because the drivers don’t know where the brakes are.  So, a cheapo radiator that works, can be a money saver.

[Tim Koyen]

Do you have a link to them that you can post?

[Tim Koyen]

So what are the guys that are beating you by .2 running?

[Tim Koyen]

Hi Michael-

I really try to avoid using axle collars and would consider them a last resort, as they can change the way the axle flexes.  I always make sure the grub screws are tight.  Sometimes I tighten them, then back them up 1/2 turn and retighten them.  I also try to use the same screw locations each time I change an axle.  It gives the screw something to bite into, and it keeps the axle cleaner by not dimpling it up all over, which makes it easier to change in the future.  Blue Loctite on the screws will help keep them from loosening up, if that’s what is happening.

Best of luck!

[Tim Koyen]

A 6×12 is definitely a good size for a single kart, although we used to race 2 karts out of one using a double stacker.

I like to just pain the plywood interior white and put outdoor carpeting on the floor and door.  Its cheap and looks nice.

Cabinets are nice, but can be hard on the budget, so go with what you can afford there.  I had a decent workbench I made out of 2x4s in my first trailer and it worked good for cleaning engines and holding a vise.  I stored spares in milk crates that fit on a shelf and underneath the bench.

One worthwhile item is a tire rack.  Tires and wheels can be a huge nuisance if you don’t have a good place to store them.

[Tim Koyen]

The Old Electric stand became economically unfeasible to produce.  Yes, it was cool, folded flat, and had big tires, but it also cost a fortune to produce.  It would be easily $1k in just materials today.  No one is going to pay $1500+ for a kart stand unless it makes you 2 tenths faster.

[Tim Koyen]

$200?  No chance.  Good luck.

[Tim Koyen]

Even though I build kart stands, and not the Dalmi, I really like the design of it.  The problem I have, is that every time I suggest a kart stand without big 8″ casters, everyone dislikes it.  In Europe, the karts are lighter, the stands are smaller, the pits are smoother, and people are willing to work all sorts of contraptions to pickup a kart.  It seems that we Americans just want to push a button and have it pickup the kart, tie our shoes, and whiten our teeth while we sleep.

I could design and build a stand similar to the Dalmi, but I just know that 90% of my customers would complain about the small casters, the price, the capacity, etc..  I like that stand though, and for some people its a great solution.

[Tim Koyen]

They only thing that would make that track viable is a moving truck.  Move it about 100miles south and it’s a winner.  Move it 500 miles south and its epic.

[Tim Koyen]

Some builders set their carbs up to run with the high completely closed, some like it cracked open, and others like it open even more.  Be sure that you and your builder are together on what the proper settings are for your carb(s).  And just because the carb settings were at one setting this weekend, doesn’t mean they will be exactly the same next weekend.  The air quality plays a big factor in the carb settings, as well as what gear you are able to pull.  When the air is crisp and dry, you may be able to run a very small rear gear, but the next weekend, they weather may be entirely different, and may require 3 more teeth to get the same RPM.

Also, don’t get fixated on what RPMs you’re turning.  Every engine is a little different.  Some like have a higher power band, and some lower.  I’ve seen guys running identical lap times with a 500 RPM difference between them.  I’m not saying that you should disregard the Tach, just don’t rely entirely on that to tell you where to go from here.

This is slightly off topic, but I see that you’re a Data Guy…  Karts can only be properly tuned on the track; based on the conditions of the day.  Grip level, tire condition, weather, fuel, and driver condition are all factors that go into getting everything just right.  You can’t look at a chart, set the kart up at home, and expect to have it perfect when you hit the pavement.  Get a baseline setup, turn some laps, and see what the conditions of the day warrant and what the kart wants.  Data will help you get that baseline, but you do the rest of the work at the track.  That’s the FUN part!

[Tim Koyen]

List updated with sold items.  I also have a Mychron4 basic in very good condition for $225 shipped.

[Tim Koyen]

Hi Juan,

I’m hoping that we are shipping the “transport catch” within 2 weeks.  Its a very simple, easy to install, mechanism that will hold the kart securely in the upright position, by fixing it to the handle.  If you have the larger 3000lb or 3500lb winches, or the older Badland 2000lb winch, these all have internal mechanical brakes and shouldn’t require any external catch.

All KartLift dealers have access to the Frame Support Kit, but very few stock it.  It can be ordered directly from us for $70, which includes shipping in the lower 48 states. 877-777-8020.  Warning, this kit only fits full sized chassis, and is not yet compatible with rookie/cadet karts, or karts narrower that most standard chassis.

Regarding the hook position; If you are using a bumper with slots in it for pickup, then the hooks should be going in there.  The kart should sit pretty level then, but if your bumper is the type without handholes, and the hooks wrap around the whole thing, then it may be necessary to shorten the cables to get it more level.  If you send me an email with how much you want them shortened, I’d be happy to make you (or anyone else who needs them) a new set of cables.  You can reach me at tim@KartLift.com.  Thanks!

 

[Tim Koyen]

Finally, a topic I know something about! :)

Seriously, both stands are great, and both will lift your kart nicely.  I’m obviously partial to the KartLift, because its my blood, sweat, and welding wire that goes into each one, but I don’t think you’ll go wrong with either one.

The KartLift is reasonably priced at $720, including shipping to the lower 48, or you can purchase from your local dealer.

Here are what I believe are some key benefits of the WinchLift by KartLift:

Flat free front tires
Standard aluminum tool/starter/air tank tray
Full height/width push handle that folds down for flat storage
Setup to accommodate optional WinchStacker double stacker
Available with Frame Support kit to take weight off kart rear bumper
One year warranty on parts

We also have a new update coming in the next month.  All the WinchLifts will ship with a simple catch to hold the kart in the upright position mechanically, rather than parking the load on the winch, during transport and storage.  The Superwinch LT2000 winch, which is more or less the standard winch for these applications (Streeter and KartLift), doesn’t have a mechanical brake, but uses a simple planetary gearset to maintain position under load.  The vibration of running kart engines, and other things, can cause this winch to drift a bit, so adding this catch will ensure that no matter how much vibration your ride puts out, the kart will be held up solidly.  (This catch will also retrofit to older stands equipped with push handles.)

If you have any questions, feel free to call me at 877-777-8020 or 608-235-4761 or email tim@KartLift.com.

 

Thanks!

 

[Tim Koyen]

I would echo what Dave and Mark Jr. said.  At the time of conception, USPKS was offering significantly more track time, as well as other benefits, like cash payouts, a time specific schedule, etc.  Basically, the things most people thought were wrong with WKA, were addressed with USPKS.  The hope was that WKA would get the message that the product they were offering sprint racers was no longer what the racers wanted and they would make some changes, or at least there would be a series that was listening to the racers.  What we got was the best of both worlds.  USPKS went out and put on a great show, and WKA realized they needed to move forward and made great strides in their program.  Now there are two great programs, and hopefully they can both thrive.  A lack of competition breeds complacency, and that’s bad for everyone.  So yes, there isn’t much of a difference in laps anymore, but they still each have their own character and positives.

[Tim Koyen]

That’s the way we trim the DeepSeat as well.  A fine toothed jig saw blade, and then a file to clean it up.

[Tim Koyen]

The “official” stance on trailering a kart on the Pro KartLift:  Yes, it can be done, and many people do, but the warranty won’t cover anything damaged while doing so, and we don’t recommend it.  The short wheelbase that allows it to “wheelie” for turning purposes, makes it particularly hard to tie down safely in a trailer.  But its like anything… Do it right, and it can be done, do it wrong, and bad things happen.

[Tim Koyen]

The KartLift logo is blurred out because I declined multiple requests to give them permission to use my logo “indefinitely” and “throughout the universe”.  Mostly because I thought the show was going to be bad and I didn’t want anything to do with it.  Turns out the show is decent and it would’ve been fine to release my logo, but I get touchy about stuff like that.  The funny part is, that now the blurry logo has probably gotten more discussion and attention than it would’ve, had it been left clear.  I’ll give them permission for next season, but I might still print the banners blurry, kinda like the Marlboro bar logos on F1 cars…lol

[Tim Koyen]

We have new DeepSeats in stock.  Give me a call at the shop at 877-777-8020 and we can get you setup.  Thanks!

[Tim Koyen]

Interestingly enough, I ran into my old FedEx driver the other day, and he asked if I watched that show, Kart Life.  I told him yes, and that I was at most of those races and appeared in the background in some of the episodes.  He said that he saw my kart stands on the show.  I told him the show wasn’t very realistic and that most of the drama was contrived, but that the racing was real and in general, that’s how those events go.  He said he liked the show and wished he could’ve raced like that when he was a kid.  He also said that he never noticed any of the “editing liberties” that were taken, and that he thought it was a fun show to watch.

This guy knows nothing about karting, other than the kart stands ship in heavy boxes, but he likes the show.  Go figure.

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