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Viewing 25 posts - 51 through 75 (of 82 total)
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  • in reply to: 125cc LEOPARD TaG – fuel filter,Tiers #43245
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Yes on the fuel filter, just keep it clean. Tires are another story, I prefer Hoosiers, both 60 and 60A’s. MG yellows are another popular choice, but there are several choices. The Hoosiers give me as good  of grip as any, and the grip and rubber seem to last longer, but that is just my opinion.

    in reply to: Laydown kart headrest #43168
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Feel Free to text me a pic and I will help you. Ric- 417-496-0428

    in reply to: To Buy Roller or Finished Kart? #42871
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Still have both of these karts, wall full of trophies from both. Chassis and motors are ready to go, complete.

    in reply to: To Buy Roller or Finished Kart? #42727
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    I have two nice rocket chassis, both race ready, with Parilla Leopards, gauges etc. Everything you need to hit the track, and be competitive. Due to medical reasons only, we are selling them. I would take $2500 complete for one, to help someone get started. You can call or text me at 417-496-0428. Ric

    in reply to: Axle bearing lubrication #42411
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    They will feel a stiffer with the grease in them. I think, as they heat up on track, the loosen up somewhat. As for me, with the axle spinning (motor running) I spray brake clean at the bearings, both sides, let it dry, and then do the same thing with a number of good spray lubes, of which I like Royal Purple, but there are many good ones. Make sure the axle is spinning, as that seems to suck both products in. We RR, and I do it every time I come off the track. Works for me for a solid 30 min race, and my bearings last a couple of seasons.

    in reply to: Stupid question #41718
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Ace, good question. There are a few orgs that say “no mirrors”. They are afraid of using them for blocking I think. I for one, wish we had them. When you come up on a slower car, use the last second of draft, then pull out. It would be nice to know, no one is there. Which org are you going to running with?

    in reply to: SMC Axle Clutch — weight installation ??s #41493
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    No prob, usually me asking, you answering, nice switch for a change. :)

    in reply to: SMC Axle Clutch — weight installation ??s #41482
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Space is ok, text me at 417-496-0428, and I’ll give you Mark Schooneover’s number. He is a guru who will answer questions.

    in reply to: Horstman clutch adjusters #41404
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    OMG, as my 7 year old daughter would say! I’m not going into how meticulously prepared I had the kart, or how bad fast it was, when you picked it up. I’m just going to say that both of your prices just went up for making fun of me.

    in reply to: Horstman clutch adjusters #41359
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Bruce, we are making hubs, pressure plates, floaters, right now. Perfect stuff with no problems. Floater/pressure plates in different thicknesses. Disk are a different story. We are on our fourth material, none with the consistency we want, but getting closer. Should be good to go by racing season.

    in reply to: Dual Brake System for Road Racing #41323
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Not a problem Pete.

    in reply to: Dual Brake System for Road Racing #41280
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Wow Pete, thought this was a discussion, not a crucifixion. Sorry I referred to 30, should of said “a while and still haven’t used my helmet” although I still think it’s a good idea to have! The $100 was for a used  second rear caliper and master, sorry again, didn’t know we were talking”frt brakes”. I’ll let you much more knowledgeable people Pete, take over. Sorry for stating my opinions in such an amateurish way.

    in reply to: Dual Brake System for Road Racing #41257
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Ted, I’ll start with saying, I think you would look good in leathers. I wasn’t saying I’m for them, or against them, just saying they are nice to have when you or someone behind you needs them. And cost effective! If we don’t require them, then fine, I’m still racing. Just think they make things a tad safer. If it truly helps get more people to the RR TRACKS, I’m all for it. NOW, as for safer tracks, I’m all for it, but then the cost would be so great, we wouldn’t have any where to go. We have what we have, and as long as we don’t make it any more dangerous, as any racing already is, then efforts need to lean to what will bring more racers to the track. Once again, IMHO

    in reply to: Dual Brake System for Road Racing #41231
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    It’s a tough topic, and IMHO, I’m surprised at the hard line stance taken by some, in other post and on other sites. It can be as cheap as a $100 or so, and kinda like one of those ” don’t want it till you need it” items. Nothing like running a 100, coming to a tight corner, and the guy behind you loses his brakes! Been there, not pretty. I guess we could say, I’ve been racing for over 30 years, never had the opportunity to use my helmet for an emergency, should we do away with those also?

    in reply to: Ribtech Questions #38712
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Don’t squeeze it, sounds like a $99 insert is your answer. Easy for me to say I know! :)

    in reply to: Ribtech Questions #38706
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Gif- Garvin Racing, seat

    mold kits are great! No mess, quick and easy, and their kart kits are $99. Nothing like a cheap custom fit!!

    in reply to: Engine Builder for PRD?? #38361
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Jesus at P1 can’t be beat, California, but has stuff all over the US, and it’s fast. P1 engines is tuff to beat.

    in reply to: Bearing replacement LO206 40mm #38359
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Take some brake clean, and with the motor running, axle turning, direct the spray tube, just at the bottom of the seals, where they meet what I call the bearing collar. This will suck the cleaner in, and it will wash out the other  side, I use about one can per bearing, shut the motor off, give them about 10 minutes to dry, have you some good spray lube ready, start the motor and spray the lube in the same place. I give about 3 10second burst per bearing.Clean then lube one bearing at a time, so you don’t have non lubed bearings spinning while you clean the others. Then I always hit them with lube before I head out on track. Has always worked for me.

    in reply to: FS: CRG Parts + Frame #38150
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Didn’t realize you were in Ontario, you can email me at ricmcdade@aol.com if you need to.

    in reply to: FS: CRG Parts + Frame #38122
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Want your frame and body work. You can call or text me at 417-496-0428. Thanks Ric

    in reply to: Ask TJ #36046
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Ok, driving a Mike Wilson w/ Leopard, RR. Rear bar, full stiff, frt bar in, scales good, 90mm rear hubs, medium axle, 54 1/2 rear width. The car turns in great, through middle of the corner great, exiting corner and back on the gas, I get a push. At the point that I feel like I should be straightening up the wheel, I’m still giving it a little more turn. I’m guessing that I need to soften the rear? As in, the rear is lifting just fine, but setting dn too quickly, giving me an exit push? Maybe loosen 3rd bearing, maybe shorter hubs? Am I on the right track here??

    in reply to: Leopard pipe flex #35845
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Thanks, but question was for those who say they run like 16″, are they themselves measuring from pipe or engine side of the flange?

    in reply to: Leopard pipe flex #35832
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Are you guys measuring this 16-16.5 from the pipe side of the flange or the engine side of the flange?

    in reply to: Leopard pipe flex #34697
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    You burnt it up on the line. When sitting still, you have to stay ” off the clutch”  with your throttle, or you can burn them up in a matter of seconds!! Also, if you have a habit of blipping a throttle while your on the brakes, cornering, that can burn one up to.  If your touching the brakes, you have to be off the throttle!! I’ve never seen a weaker clutch than on a leopard.

    in reply to: Torque vs High Rpm H/P #28141
    Ric mcDade
    Participant

    Buddy, new  H2o Vortex, new port design.  BTW, I sure miss your dad! Keep in touch!!

Viewing 25 posts - 51 through 75 (of 82 total)