[Ambrose Buldo]

Does anyone when and how to order the Sr Max Evo Upgrade kit? I called my favorate authorized Rotax Dealer today and they told me parts are only offered at a discount through Rotax Direct. How would one go about placing the order and is there any indication of when it will ship?

[Ambrose Buldo]

I really wish there was KPV/HPV/support at my local track.  The performance level, the cost effectiveness of running that simple and durable engine was hard to beat.

I’ll be doing a few select Rotax Races in 2015 as that is the engine supported my my local track and thus the engine that has the most participants.  That said, I read TJ’s article and it is spot on.  I’d switch to a air-coolled 100cc program in a heart-beat if there was support/participate.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Tough to read the last few pages – the ones with the prices…. Over $1000 for all the Sr upgrades?

[Ambrose Buldo]

There is no need to go to the extreme of building a clam-shell to make the Kart compartment weather-tight for a number of reasons.

1. Want to keep the trailer foldable

2. I have a 16′ enclosed trailer to store kart at the track

3. I have Garage to store Kart at home

4. Kart will only be exposed to elements during the tow process (Normally less than two hrs)

If I build a second level support structure for the kart, it will be simple enough to be removeable to allow trailer to fold.

Second level support, will be as you suggest at kart stand height so I can load solo.

I have the winter to think about it.  Right now pleased that I can use trailer “As-Is” if I decide to do nothing.

I’ll post a picture or trailer with kart on it shortly.  I will be upgrading to LED Lights, adding bearing buddies and maybe picking up a spare hub.

 

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

Thanks for all the input here.  Encouraged by it, I took a 4X8 sheet of plywood I had hanging around the house, cut it in 1/2 so I ended up with 4X4 and bolted decking on to trailer.  Took it ot OVRP this weekend and used it to bring Kart home.  Kart fit perfectly, with all bodywork on and wheels at race width.

As suggested I put it on backwards. The front wheels cleared the caster legs by an easy 2.5″ each side.  The bodywork cleared the fenders by over an inch and the rear wheels only hung over by 1.5″ each side.  Not enough to cause me concern.

When I re-do the decking, I will get 2 sheets of plywood and overlap the frame in front by an inch or two each side.  I may go a little wider in the rear as there is no caster clearance issue.

Debating if I add a second level to raise kart so I can store stand and tool box under the kart. May not be worth the effort.

Going to replace standard Harbor Freight Lights with the LED lights. Going to put rubber isolators between fender mount and frame as I doubt fenders can take the vibration long term.  Going to eventially add bearing buddys and a bunch of D rings/tie down points.

 

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

Freddy – Thanks for the quick reply.  Never thought about drilling the carriage bolt and installing a Jesus Clip. This allows me to use stock holes as I’d rather not drill more holes then necessary in the frame,  I’d definiatly  NOT trust the swivel hinges.

 

I found this picture out there…. do you think a full size kart (Rotax iKart) would fit this way with side-pods an bumpers removed?   I don’t have access to a kart to check…

 

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=kart%20open%20trailer%20pictures&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=kart%20open%20trailer%20pictures&sc=0-0&sp=-1&sk=#view=detail&id=A63FE39DA6C080FD45F3A5185364E802B2612307&selectedIndex=57

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

I have a 16′, enclosed trailer that I keep at the track.  Unfortunatly I no longer have a tow vechcail big enough to pull it.  Since I wanted a small trailer to keep around the house for  Home depot or dump runs a purchased the Harbor Freight 4X8 foilding open trailer.  I am limited in garage space so the folding part was important to me.

I assembled the trailer this weekend.  Only thing left is to put plywood decking on.  I have a couple questions.

Making this thing foldable requires the removal of two carraige bolts on each side.  anyone come up with a tool-less alternative?

I eventualy plan to add an elevated deck to get over the fenders and wheel (Trailer is 48″ wide, Kart is 56″). Deck/platform will be high enough to throw kart stand, tool box, easy-up and folding chairs under it.  I’m guessing 2nd level (Kart level) is maybe 16″ higher then main deck. Anyone got any pictures of thier verson of using the 4×8 HF trailer for kart?

Anyone fitting the kart on the trailer with no modifications (I.E stripping it down a bit, loading in front, loading sideways, loading kart(s) on kart stand, angled)?

Any issues of transporting Rotax Kart at angle of even upright?

If you have pictures please post or send to abuldo at aol dot com.

 

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

Ted, Scott and Stu (Via PM) hanks for the feedback.

 

Ted – I have no problem replicating your setup, but is it still foldable?

 

Other than better wheel bearing grease and decking any other modifications. I know some guys upgrade the hardware and some even weld and gusset the frame.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Great to see rack management posting and solicitating input….

[Ambrose Buldo]

Looking forward to hearing the results…  Just ordered an iKart, looking forward to running one with either KPV/4 or Rotax Max Power in the Spring…

[Ambrose Buldo]

John – As an iKart Dealer I figured you would know this.

What is the size of the frame tubes.  I thought it was all 32mm, but saw as a caption is said 28/30.  Just trying to understand what motor mount for Rotax is needed.

 

What axle stiffness is availaible/recommended?

[Ambrose Buldo]

John – I pulled the read cage, they are fine.  Only think I can think of now is either exhaust of fuel supply plumbing.

I will check exhaust pipe and packing when I prep for next season.  Also I noticed on the other Rotax it uses very small diameter line for the pulse line. My line is probably a little longer then it needs to be. I can probably make it 2 or 3″ shorter but will still be longer then on other kart as my pump is mounted under the carb and on other Kart is it mounted sideways to the engine with a ProSpeed Kit.

Anyone know where I can get the small diameter line to use for pulse?  I was using regular fuel line and maybe I was not getting a good seal on the engine side of pulse line.

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

Still looking for a nice roller… Sub $2000 Delivered to Northern NJ.  Email abuldo at aol.com

[Ambrose Buldo]

Yes – I used old slide and spring.  Since them, I replaced the throttle cable and put a new spring on it.

Johns reply on fuel pump pipework got me thinking.  The line from the crankcase to the  fuel pump is much longer then on the other motor.  I will shorten it up as much as possible.  Also I notices this engine uses regular fuel line for the pump plumbing whereas the other motor as much smaller in diameter (and more flexiable) line.  I am going to change over.

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

What exactly do I look for when inspecting the reeds?

[Ambrose Buldo]

While I’ve not used the software at the track yet, I look forward to using it next season.  I fully understand the concept of “Aligninging it” to your carb and engine combo.  We will take the time to do it right.  Impressed with the software so far, and if it works out, would like to get their setup package as well and get rid of my paper notes as I have laptop at track almost always.

Right now I am still frustrated with the Carb “Over Rev Issue” I discuss a few threads below. I can’t use Jet-Tech until I get it resolved.

Here is a recap:

It is a near new newer style Rotax installed on my Intrepid Kart

Issue: At end  of straight when over 12000 rpm I let off throttle, the revs don’t drop immedatly, in fact revs feels like it continues to climb a bit. I have driven 2 other Rotax Karts on same day, they don’t have this issue.

I’ve tried main jet from 153 to 165, no help

I’ve had carb rebuilt and ultrasonicially cleaned no help

Power valve was rebuilt, no help

It is not foot, elbow throttle cable interferiance

Throttle pedal not binding

Tried new spark plug

Put good known working carb on and problem persisted

Installed new throttle, cap, sleeve and rubber gasket under throttle cap

Made sure carb was pushed in well

Fuel Pump Rebuilt

Installed new carb clamps

Installed new carb to air box socket

Perplexing is that issue persisted with another carb.    Maybe its the Carb slide or something to do with the reeds?  Any ideas?  At this point gong to have to wait till next season.

[Ambrose Buldo]

I spoke to Chris this weekend – An RLV stand is preferred, but something similar to a Streeter stand will also be considered.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Mike – Did not get a chance to use the software this weekend.  Was helping a friend get his new Kart sorted.

I did get a response from Colin @ Jet-Tech regarding need to re-calibrate and he said it was not necessary as the software accounts for change in altitude.  I only have to re-calibrate the software when I change batteries on the weather station.

I bought this weather station:  http://www.amazon.com/Ambient-Weather-WS-1171-Temperature-Barometer/dp/B003OSSH9G/ref=lp_397435011_1_2?s=furniture&ie=UTF8&qid=1385402564&sr=1-2  $40. Looks to be the same as the  Jet-Tech, but can’t tell for sure.  I think for our purposes it is more then adequate. The readings on this station match the readings on a Higher End Davis Weather Station.

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

If the weather is OK this weekend, hope to get out for one last time this year and get the “OverRev” issue resolved.

Since issue persisted with another carb, I am thinking Air Leak too and ordered a bunch of parts.  I will replace them one by one.

– I got a new air box top

– I got a new airbox socket (Rubber boot between airbox and carb)

– I got new clamp for each side of the carb (Did not realize they are different sizes)

– I got a new reed cage to carb assembly  (The rubber boot between the engine and the Carb)

– I got a new gasket for the above

I hope it is not the latter two as I believe that requires me breaking the seal to replace.

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

Located where?

[Ambrose Buldo]

Richard – I will check to make sure carb is pushed in all the way.  I know clamps on boht side are tight.

[Ambrose Buldo]

Was at the Kart Track today…I changed the throttle cable, the fixation kit, cable sleeve, carb cover, cover gasket and sparkplug.  Problem still persists.  What next?

[Ambrose Buldo]

Mike –

I just ordered a new carb cap, gasket kit, throttle cable and throttle cable sleeve. I can’t recall if there was a gasket under the carb cap. I know drawing show one exists.  It is included in the gasket kit I ordered.  That will be the first thing I check.

 

[Ambrose Buldo]

Was at the track this weekend (OVRP NY). Still experiencing the OverRev issue at the end the straight. When I let got of the throttle, revs don’t drop right away, in fact it still continues to increase a little.

I adjusted the throttle slide/cable to make sure I am not going “Over the Top” – No change.

I tried main Jets from 152 all the way to 165 – No change.

Power-valve was cleaned and rebuilt – No Change.

Just rebuilt fuel pump

My foot, suit or arm is not interfering with throttle cable.

The throttle cable or pedal is not hanging up. Cable was new and is not binding

The clutch was cleaned as I was thinking maybe it was not disengiaging (New style).

As finial test, as John suggested, I put a good known Carb on and problem persisted.  For this test I utilized my current slide and throttle cable assembly – No change.

I made sure the carb was square to both the engine and airbox.

I am driving around the issue for my lifting early, more of a nuisance, but would like to solve this mystery.

Hope to hit the track this weekend, any suggestions?

[Ambrose Buldo]

I want to thank Dave for helping to get my friend and his son into their first kart.   I look forward to seeing their new ride on track shortly.

 

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