[Matt Martin]

I think being afraid of change to modern solutions which are well-proven, and well-documented pose a threat to the future of most things – karting very much included.

 

Think about it, no more carbs with 3 jets, various needles, and knobs.  No more carb rebuilds.  That sounds wonderful!  More driving and less cost messing about and having to have $300 in carb-tuning equipment to be competitive.

[Matt Martin]

http://shopswedetech.com/product.php?productid=120&cat=24&page=1

$6k for their 1999 read-to-run “stock” honda package.  I’m not sure how it’s too much different?  I guess that’s after blueprinting – so there will be some of the same work done to a 175cc package that may add some cost.

 

 

[Matt Martin]

[quote quote=84510]

Clark Gaynor Sr. wrote:

First of all———-keep your kart OFF the streets!!! You’re giving EVERYONE on this site and kart racing in general a BAD name! I doubt anyone will help you! Take the kart to a kart track. Clark Gaynor Sr.

Thanks for your input but I’m not driving an hour and paying $55 just to do some carb tuning. Also, I’d like to think the general population is smart enough to notice the difference between driving a kart on the street and Kart Racing. That is unless you believe that people think driving a car fast on the street gives NASCAR a bad name? When you see me being reckless and breaking the rules of the road, go ahead and whine but I followed all basic traffic laws and the only person I endangered in that situation was myself, which I believe I have the right to do. If you have a chance to get off your horse you may understand. [/quote]

 

Just so we understand, you’re quoting the guy that works really hard to help kids and adults get into affordable, safe karting up and down the mid-Atlantic.  he’s been around a while and is one of the most helpful, down-to-earth fellas you’ll find in the paddock.  His advice isn’t just some unfounded soap-box preaching.

[Matt Martin]

[quote quote=84494]First of all———-keep your kart OFF the streets!!! You’re giving EVERYONE on this site and kart racing in general a BAD name! I doubt anyone will help you! Take the kart to a kart track. Clark Gaynor Sr. [/quote]

 

quoting for posterity.

 

Just have a look at the level of a car or truck’s ride-height.  Add in any inexperience in karts.  Multiply number of missed items from a rigorous at-the-track tech inspection.  Multiply by a kart’s lack of visibility to cars.  You have roughly calculated likelihood of death, or at best serious injury.

I wish there was a local track within an hour of driving for me.

[Matt Martin]

[quote quote=84270]

Matt Martin wrote:

There’s plenty of places in the area – NJMP, Englishtown, OVRP, Summit Point, Sandy Hook, etc. I run with the Woodbridge Kart Club at Summit Point, and would like to run some of the F-series events, too. i would suggest finding yourself a newish used TAG kart, and go with any of the local clubs. Sanctioning bodies are always looking to add racers to their weekends; as such, they and everyone else at the tracks tend to be friendly and helpful to new karters.

I have seen that TAG and LO206 are both very popular, which one would run me slightly lower in cost/maintenance? And what is a good ballpark price that each of these would cost me up front? (complete kart w/ chassis and engine). Thanks so much guys. [/quote]

LO206/4-cycle stuff is probably the easiest on the wallet for maintenance.

 

I’m less well versed on 4-stroke stuff, but you can get a good running TAG setup for $2.5-5k depending on what you want, or how competitive of a kart you want out of the box.

 

Check the Classifieds on this forum, as well as ebay, and racing junk.  In addition head to your local track(s) on a race weekend and you’ll often see karts for sale in and around the paddock.

[Matt Martin]

There’s plenty of places in the area – NJMP, Englishtown, OVRP, Summit Point, Sandy Hook, etc.

I run with the Woodbridge Kart Club at Summit Point, and would like to run some of the F-series events, too.

i would suggest finding yourself a newish used TAG kart, and go with any of the local clubs.  Sanctioning bodies are always looking to add racers to their weekends; as such, they and everyone else at the tracks tend to be friendly and helpful to new karters.

[Matt Martin]

The water pump should have no relation to the engine just starting and running.

However, rusty water could lead to a plugged cooling system.  This can cause overheating.  If it overheated and, it could easily damage the cylinder walls and piston. Pull the top end apart and look through it.

 

How do the reeds look?

Is your fuel line pliable and soft?  is you fuel pick-up cracked or damaged?

Is the block well sealed?

What was the highest water temp you saw on track?

[Matt Martin]

pics not working for me.  try imgur for a host.

[Matt Martin]

you may need to use an actual brake hone.

[Matt Martin]

A lot of the parts that you talk about having “play” are supposed to have play.  One [of the many] kart-chassis tuning methods is to tighten and loosen brackets which attach to the chassis – or sometimes removing them all together.  This includes floor tray, front-bumper bracket, side-pod brackets, torsion bars, seat brackets, etc.

 

 

Your chassis looks to be quite old as the side-pod bars do not mount perpendicularly to the chassis – that’s always a quick tell.  That was standardized sometime in the early- to mid-2000s.

[Matt Martin]

what did the problem end up being?  that way if others have that issue, they can see what the solution might be.

[Matt Martin]

have you contacted Pavesi?  http://www.pavesi.co.uk/?page_id=19

[Matt Martin]

I missed the part about 6″ wheels…

If you’re not racing you can get hoosiers which are close enough, too

 

http://www.out2win.com/catalog/hoosier.html

[Matt Martin]

If you just want something to drive around on, get on the classifieds section here, or check ebay and buy a bunch of used/practice tires.

 

[Matt Martin]

is your temp sensor between the plug and the head?

 

if so, that’s probably the reason for the high reading – it’s normal.

[Matt Martin]

what’s the condition of the reeds?

what does the plug look like?

what fuel are you running?

what gearing?

how many hours on the motor since the last rebuild?

what type of fuel system are you running (pump-around?)

is the spark-plug wire new?

any cracks in fuel lines?

[Matt Martin]

from: http://www.swedetechracing.com/techinfo/?cid=62373

PLUGS
Standard Size – NGK BR10EG or R7376-10
Shorty Style – NGK R7282-10
Must use the NGK TRS1225 Plug cap with short style plugs
** You must use a resistor type spark plug **
Spark Plug Gap – 0.024” – 0.028”
Oil

JETTING
The Stock Moto Engine for karting application will not run properly run on pump fuel. SwedeTech recommends the use of VP Racing Fuel’s C12 product.
Keihin 38mm PWM – recommended by SwedeTech
Jetting range is based on Sprint Kart setup using the SwedeTech GFS system and a 2001 cylinder combo.

170-190 main ( center of the carb, 6mm hex )
Main jet supplies fuel from ½ throttle to full throttle
58-65 pilot ( next to main jet, use 5mm flat screwdriver to remove )
Pilot jet supplies fuel from 0 – ¼ throttle
DGH needle – 3rd from top. Experiment with 4th & 2nd clip from top.
Needle regulates fuel from 1/8 throttle to ¾ throttle
Air Screw ( side of carburetor body, above fuel inlet ) – 1 Turn
Keihin 2001 CR125 Jet Kits
* For new engines purchased directly from SwedeTech and engines maintained by SwedeTech, we offer a jet chart to help customers tune their engine for optimum performance.

[Matt Martin]

Thanks, Clark.  Wish I was able to make it to this weekend’s race.

[Matt Martin]

Do you know when results from the Shenandoah race will be posted on Mylaps or elsewhere?

[Matt Martin]

It could be any 38mm carb – PWK, Keihin, Mikuni.  I’m unsure who might do that unless they’re running in an unlimited/modified class.

Are the Dellorto carbs the VHSH 30?

What is the setup inside?  Atomizer? Jet?  Needle (and clip position)? idle jet?  Float weight and height?

 

 

I’m not sure which class you run, but my experience is with the KZ/ICC stuff – rules mandate the VHSH 30mm carb from Dellorto.

 

 

 

[Matt Martin]

how tight is the cable when the clutch lever is all the way out?

[Matt Martin]

Mike,

 

I just run a zip tie which is pulled tight on the return line.

What do you mean by inlet needle?  The float valve?

 

Brad, get to do anymore testing?

[Matt Martin]

get a beam/blade type – they’re cheap and accurate.

[Matt Martin]

 

 

 

is it in the same location as these two photos?

 

 

Swedetech quotes blueprinted/mod 1999 CR125 top end replacement as the same part number you posted.

 

http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=109564&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

[Matt Martin]

WildKart?

 

can you take pictures of any frame tags?  or homologation tags?

[Author]

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