[Matt Martin]

high rpm = high speed = modified airflow which hits the seat when it normally doesn’t?  if it’s building that much heat, that you’re able to feel it only when the RPMs are high (i’m assuming this isn’t a steady-state), then the motor would have already gone kaboom, or started making awful sounds.

[Matt Martin]

A slipping clutch will cause rise in RPM without a change in speed.

 

I would ask around the folks at that track what gearing they are running, and what carb setups they’re running.  If things are still going awry after those adjustments, you should look into having the motor gone through.

[Matt Martin]

what track?  gearing depends on track.  loss of top end might be gearing, might be carb setup, might be engine maint.

how many hours on the motor?

if you’re just starting out, a straight, not-cracked chassis is all you need.

 

 

[Matt Martin]

what engine?

[Matt Martin]

I don’t think there is a kit.  Most folks just buy a long section with a 90º bend on one end, or use a coupler to attach bends with straight sections – to achieve the needed angles.

 

however, this photo from Motoiq.com might help (it has a brand and part number)

Link to full-size photo

[Matt Martin]

I haven’t seen any silicone sets.  Assuming you have a K9 of some sort, #18 here is what you need.

 

TM Cylinder – K9B/C

[Matt Martin]

Without the hanger there, you’d get rid of parasitic losses from the bearing having to rotate.

[Matt Martin]

Tire change:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGgdy3fRCbM

Setup will depend on track size, power, your weight, tires, tire pressures.

Setup Info:

http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?1150-The-Msquared-Files

 

 

[Matt Martin]

Glenn, thanks!

 

I think I might end up squaring up the cases, or even looking for another case – mine is pretty beat up inside.

 

[Matt Martin]

I do 500mL of Synthetic ATF through the vent-port plug.

[Matt Martin]

Bill,

 

thanks for the reply.  I have two heads, and have tried both of them, however, they’re listed as the same part number.  The only vagary is that the K9A and K9B do not show the insert as a part available separately; on the K9C parts list it is.  Homologation shows the combustion chamber as the same; so, I had assumed they’re the same.  Wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong!

 

Thanks!

[Matt Martin]

Anthony,

 

If you have an Android phone, there’s an app in the Play store that I have used with success (Disclaimer: i’m still very new).

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.isenet.jettingtmkart

 

The app pulls weather data based on your GPS location (or you can manually input it); based on the variables you set (K9 engine generation, track length, etc.) it will output four different setup variations which should get you pretty close to proper running.

 

NOTE:  Some of the parts listed in the setup I found impossible to source, despite them showing up in many internet searches about TM carb setups K93 needle and CD1 jets.

 

here’s a thread which should help get started:

 

http://www.eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?p=392790&sid=36e608721e3ce10bf4fdcc2efa6f848d

[Matt Martin]

There are a few different types.  Which chassis do you have?  17mm spindles or 25mm?

[Matt Martin]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

[Matt Martin]

use an L bracket bolted to the cassette.

[Matt Martin]

You could.  That assumes you know the temperature – a water pump that is turned off will not flow water past an in-line temp sensor, especially if that sensor that is further downstream.  You could run the temp sensor directly off the engine’s outlet and have a better idea.

I think your application warrants a thermostat which opens the path for the radiator, but keeps a closed-loop (with the thermostat) when warming up.

http://italianmotorsusa.myshopify.com/collections/thermostats/products/iame-thermostat-1

[Matt Martin]

Simply replace the axle pump.  You could do both, but that would be silly and add weight and complexity that you don’t need.  I would suggest running a thermostat so the engine doesn’t stay cold as the electric pump will likely run at 100% duty cycle without some sort of programmable controller.

[Matt Martin]

I’ve got an 08 Intrepid Explorer.  My best sources thus far have been:

Italian Motors (italkart stuff often is the same).

http://italianmotorsusa.myshopify.com/

Fastech has also had stuff for me.

[Matt Martin]

Keep us updated, i’m interested in how you set everything up!

[Matt Martin]

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd420/banned13/GO%20KART/GO%20KARTS%20FOR%20SALE/DSC02015_zps0781c1a7.jpg~original

 

 

link to a larger picture where you can see the PS setup on the steering shaft and the supporting brackets/electronics.

[Matt Martin]

most modern electric power steering is just an electrically-powered hydraulic pump.

 

I know that some Super Kart chassis uses front A-Arms for suspension adjustment, this is in addition to rack-and-pinion steering.  That would likely be a good start.  The rack and hydraulics could be sourced from a power-assist, or hydraulic steering rack from a lawn mower.

[Matt Martin]

Just vouching for Mike.  I bought the scales and he was very easy to communicate with and shipped quickly.  Thanks again!

[Matt Martin]

https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/forum/business-retail-classifieds/

[Matt Martin]

 

Source: http://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?InfoID=75&ProductID=30

[Matt Martin]

I’m in the Baltimore area and currently setting up my TM K9-powered Intrepid to run with NESKS.

 

In fact i just rebuilt the entire brake system on my kart; so, I know that area well.  There shouldn’t be too many wires, really.

 

Pictures?

[Author]

Posts