[Craig Drabik]

I’ve used DID hard pin chains (219) on World Formula for years.  I change them at the beginning of the season.  I’ve never broken one due to just mechanical wear (only from wrecking one on a curb).  In my opinion for 4-cycle the space chains aren’t worth the extra expense, especially if you’re already running 35.

[Craig Drabik]

I bought a pair of these last year:  http://www.batterysharks.com/Power-Patrol-SLA1075-p/sla1075_b12-7.htm

 

One of them died over the winter when I left it sit in my unheated garage all winter, but the other has been great.  In fact I’m planning to order a couple more.

[Craig Drabik]

Just a followup here that that IS the correct part for the World Formula.  I ran one this weekend.

[Craig Drabik]

I’ve found tires take longer to come in.  I usually add a half pound to a pound between dusk and night runs.

[Craig Drabik]

I thought maybe he mis-typed and should be 54.5-55″?  Seems right with Yellows.

[Craig Drabik]

Indeed, I have a 20 oz Pepsi bottle on there right now.  Funny thing is I’ve got two real catch tanks sitting on the work bench and haven’t gotten around to installing them yet.

[Craig Drabik]

I _think_ the breather kit is the same for both engines.  I honestly didn’t realize how inexpensive the kit was or I’d have bought it a long time ago.  I’ve always gotten away with just stuffing fuel line into the included breather hose and routing that to a catch can.  I’ve only had a problem with oil coming out of there on an oval track.

[Craig Drabik]

I’ve always run Cool Power medium green, 15oz.  I usually change every weekend.  If you know what oil was in it before it might make sense to stick with that.  Various oils seldom mix well.  Otherwise I’d fill it, run it on the stand or a few practice laps, and change it.

93 octane pump gas, no premix.  Check your club’s rulebook, they may have a spec fuel or a certain gas station they want you to use.

[Craig Drabik]

I’ve got an X1 as well that I run Leopard on.  The chassis is significantly beefier, and runs a 50mm axle.  The AX9-4S is lighter and 40mm axle.  From my experience it’s rare to see 4-stroke lower power classes running 50mm axles.  I can’t speak to clearance, I’ve only run 2-cycle engines on the X1.

 

Good luck.

[Craig Drabik]

Bob, the Western NY Kart Club (formerly Batavia Kart Club) has a similar class structure where we have a combined stock Animal, KT-100, and World Formula class equalized by weight.  I wish I could say we have better luck with it, but it hasn’t been as successful as we’d have liked.  It does offer easy entry into the senior classes on the engine side – there’s a lot of Animal and Yamaha engines out there.

Honestly though the WF should be where it’s at for the experienced racer who isn’t into traveling to nationals and doesn’t want to spend a lot.  They’re just as quick as Yamaha can out of the box, and they run forever with just oil changes and carb cleaning.

[Craig Drabik]

If you’re buying new, the dealer will help you buy the right kart.  If you’re on a 206, you’ll want a 4-cycle specific chassis.  The 4-stroke engines have the clutch on the seat-side of the engine.  Chassis for those engines have the seat stay and crossmember in a place that won’t interfere with 4-stroke engine mounting.  The X3-4S is the current Arrow 4-stroke model.  I don’t see them on Kartsport or Comet’s websites so they may have to order one special for you or they may just not have them on the website.

 

I’ve raced an AX9-4S for years now and they’re great.  Very easy to work on and very competitive in 4-cycle classes..

 

[Craig Drabik]

I really wish there was regional and national World Formula interest.  Bolt it on and go.

[Craig Drabik]

<span style=”line-height: 1.5em;”>Apparently there’s no break-in procedure in the Animal/206 manual :)</span>For world formula I’ve always followed the break-in procedure in the manual.  I have run the “no load” portion of the instructions on the stand at home, so when I get to the track I’m ready to just warm it up on the stand then start the on-track break in laps.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines-racing/~/media/Files/product_catalog/Briggs%20Racing/World%20Formula%20Racing%20Performance%20Catalog%20and%20Reference%20Guide.pdf?la=en

 

 

[Craig Drabik]

Check your PM.  I’m interested!

[Craig Drabik]

Sold it already.

[Craig Drabik]

Still available

[Craig Drabik]

You need a starter end adaptor for MY09 leopard/JICA.  Comet has them (among others)

[Craig Drabik]

Still available.  1400 shipped/offer.

[Craig Drabik]

PM me an offer.

[Craig Drabik]

I believe when the cylinder and piston were replaced in 2012 the most recent parts were used.

[Craig Drabik]

Please make an offer if you’re interested.  I’m motivated to move this engine as soon as possible.

[Craig Drabik]

Following tools and spare parts are included:

• Bellows and spring
• Bellows spring removal tool
• Clutch springs
• Clutch nut socket
• Exhaust matting
• Jet kit
• Fuel pump rebuild kit

[Craig Drabik]

Price reduced.  If you’re interested, make me an offer.  I would really like this to find a new home!

[Craig Drabik]

I’ll add a few more things I think are essential for a good club series:

1. Keep things moving along.  Consolidate classes where you can.  Nobody likes sitting through eight classes with three karts apiece racing in them, when they’re all turning similar times.
2. Have a clear rulebook that’s available for free.  Don’t make people spend money on the WKA book or whatever.
3. Penalize bad driving.  Use the black flag.
4. Use the blue flag if necessary.
5. Run a reasonable number of races.  My racing enjoyment went way up when my club stopped racing every week from April to November.  Saves money and opens up the schedule for the fast guys to run regional or national.

[Craig Drabik]

I have to disagree with open tires.  If done correctly, spec tires can lower costs and provide a level playing field for racers.  Our series had success with the Burris 55 as spec tire.  I ran three sets of tires for I think 14 races.  They were hard but handled well.

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