[Richard Gordon]

Awesome! Thanks for the link.  Looks like they will change the track configuration every race.  Might have to try and race there sometime.

[Richard Gordon]

You should be able to just flip it over and make sure the shoes are oriented so the shoes are leading.  It shouldn’t have that much overhang unless there are spacers already there.  Is it the correct chamfer washer?  The beveled side goes towards the engine.  Make sure it is on the right way.  I have 3 206 engines with this clutch and had to use the spacers to get clutch the proper amount off the crank.  Also check to make sure the keyway isn’t blurred up so the clutch isn’t sliding on all the way.  Yes, it is best to run the gear inboard so you can move the engine further in.  Hope this helps.  Those shoes are pretty tough, but if the grove is almost gone, might be worth replacing.

[Richard Gordon]

Not sure, but one series is IKF sanctioned.  The other is tied in with USOpen.  Definitely some difference in tires.  Not sure on motors.  I also think that the IKF series is all on the front range and probably set up for people who don’t want to travel long distances.  GJMS is several hours from the Denver area over the Rocky Mountains.  The other tracks are all within 2 hours of each other at the most.

[Richard Gordon]

No tires needed anymore

 

[Richard Gordon]

Not much other than you can make the front track width wider than with dsm. Might be a big advantage for certain tires and engine combos.  Also might be a little stiffer with less flex going on.

[Richard Gordon]

Awesome!  Will give you a call this afternoon.

[Richard Gordon]

Are the wheels still available? Will buy them if they are in good shape with no dents/problems.  Are the bearings in good shape?

[Richard Gordon]

What size are the wheels?

[Richard Gordon]

Here is one in CO.  http://www.sbrmotorsportspark.com/index.cfm?id=5906e02a-5f74-4b2a-9b2f4ded2b13df4c&apexspeed.html

[Richard Gordon]

Not uncommon. How much does your son weight? Follow manufacture guidelines for seat mounting location. You might want to see if you can move the seat and engine more to the left. Usually as far left as possible. You might still need to add weight to the left side of the seat. Also with a light driver, you will probably need to raise the height of the seat to get the weight higher to get more lateral grip. Front to rear is probably good. Hope this helps.

[Richard Gordon]

Does this have the IR lap timer sensor with it?

[Richard Gordon]

Keep in mind a 1 tooth jump in front is roughly equal to 4 teeth out back.  Gearing will be dependent on the longest strait, slowest corners, and driver weight.  If there are several tight turns you might have to gear so you are on the limiter a bunch on the long strait.  Won’t hurt the engine to do that.  You will just need to get in the ball park and test from there.  You might even need to change gearing as the track changes throughout the race day.  If you can find the high mph of a LO206 at your track, you can use a speed calculator found online to get you pretty close.  They are base off your gear ratio, rear tire circumference, and the max rpm of the engine (6100).

[Richard Gordon]

You can run pretty much any front gear you want.  No clearance issues.  The rear gear might be an issue depending on what chassis you are running.  If you are running anything over a 70 tooth, you might have lack of clearance at the chassis cross bar.  Especially if it is a 2 cycle chassis.  I would ask around about what ratio most people run.  Find the gear combo that will allow you to run a rear gear in the low to mid 60t range and you probably won’t have any clearance problems.

[Richard Gordon]

Just pull up a video of Biland SA250. You will want one. These go about 300 hours before needing refresh. Adjust the valves every 30. In stock form have around 30 hp but have a very wide power band. Also runs on pump gas. Water cooled, dry sump 4 stroke bliss. Engine was originally designed for hybrid cars.

[Richard Gordon]

Here is one near you that is awesome. These motors kick butt. Not a shifter, but fast and the motors require a lot less work overall. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/mcy/5282472621.html

[Richard Gordon]

If you want good stuff but at a low price, I will also vote for the LO206. You can get a brand new, race ready Margay Ignite K3 for under $4k. Or find a used shifter kart rolling chassis that is 4-5 year old and buy a new engine kit for $750. They are fast enough to teach you driving skills and easy to maintain. I bought an 07 Italkart Elite that was race ready for $1100. Ended up having to buy new front end parts as everything was worn. Also had to make a new floor pan as there are no pans available for it anymore. I wouldn’t buy anything older than about 5 years because of the lack of parts, although most parts are pretty universal fit wise. You should be able to get a nice set up for well under $3000 and you might find a deal for around $1500 if your lucky. Lots of TaG karts around too for cheap. Not cheap to run though. The engines will last a lot longer than a KT100 which needs to be freshened pretty frequently compared to the TaG motors. The LO206 just needs the oil changed every race. Set the valve lash after break in and not much else to deal with once you have the carb adjuste. It has a sealed block and most every part on it is spec right down to the air filter and spark plug. It is the best bang for the buck and a great way to get started.

[Richard Gordon]

I would run far away. Looks like it spent a lot of time stored outside. Would cost more to get it going than it would to buy a newer race ready kart. Shifter class also costs a bunch to run. $250 each weekend for tires. $75 for fuel. No such thing as a cheap shifter kart.

[Richard Gordon]

Glad to hear that they are working on the web site. The track is a lot of fun and they run both directions. Hope to see you out there next year. My son and I will try to make all the races.

[Richard Gordon]

Yeah, their schedule only comes up if you open the site on a computer.  Doesn’t work on any mobile device.  Not even on a tablet with wifi.  The schedule is usually up on the Colorado Karter Portal though.

[Richard Gordon]

Have to say that the stickier tires are much easier to set up the kart for too.  The hard tires require a pretty radical setup to make them work at all.  Much smaller window of adjustments.

[Richard Gordon]

PM sent.

[Richard Gordon]

Any of these suits fit a tall skinny person?  Specifically 6’1″ and 160 lbs.  have a Bell K1 in XL but it is very baggy.

[Richard Gordon]

Keep up the good work! Might be worth posting an ad on Craigs List for your area. I’m trying to get some interest in this class for our track too. Looks like we are going to gain a few karts. More tracks and shops need to push this as an entry level to get more interest. A spec tire that lasts all season is a good idea too. Tracks in our region use a Duro tire. Have to run the same set all season for qualifying, heats, and mains. Keeps cost way down. It is a lot more appealing to have a cheap competitive class. Will grow karting overall as some will probably jump up into faster, more expensive classes after a while.

[Richard Gordon]

Look this guy up

https://new.ekartingnews.com/2015/10/20/ekn-industry-insider-innovative-kartings-curtis-ruth/

In Phoenix area.  Think you would be in LO206 or World Formula.  Those engines are easy to maintain and fairly inexpensive.  There are also 2 cycle classes in your area.  Good luck and have fun!

[Richard Gordon]

Unfortunately it would take more than it is worth to restore.  Unless you just want to do it for fun, would be better to buy something in better shape for a little more.  Lots of cheap karts from the late 90s and early 2000s out there in way better condition.

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