[Troy V Smith]

I am attempting to do my own in regards to real kart racing. Hope to finish up early next year. Ideas? Inclusions?

[Troy V Smith]

Everyone has an opinion, and I have kept mine quiet in an effort to evaluate the show over a period of time. Over the past month now, one thing has remained consistent through the four episodes – and that has been the horrible illusion as to what kart racing really is. I mean no offense to anyone, but how anyone can remotely describe this show as “good for the sport” is beyond me.

This “show” does far greater damage to the sport than it does promote any interest. I’m sure many self righteous, egotistical, arrogant, rich “Jerks”, who are willing to spend mega bucks to continue to spoil his irresponsible brats, would love to get in on the “my kid is better than your kid” debacle as seen on this TV show. For the better part of the worldly population however, and non-karters in general, I would expect most unknowing watchers, to look at this sport as just as it is depicted – filled with grief, whining kids, arguments, unrealistic goals, unsportsmanlike behavior, death defying crashes and exuberant amounts of money spent for an overall crappy weekend. Gimmie a break…

This show does nothing which demonstrates the real efforts, the real camaraderie, the real struggles and victories or the real competitive spirit of our sport. Nor does it demonstrate the usual intent of all racers to help their fellow racers! The response and the “interest” in our sport would be far far greater if the world would see the true karters. Such as the two racers wrecking each other on the track, and the same two racers helping each other get their karts fixed! Or how about the multiple Juniors, battling on the track, yet to find them all a hot dog yielding, “band of brothers” off the track. Or how about the guy that turns his own wrenches, spending a couple hundred bucks a weekend and wins races! Where are the drivers meetings where 100 people can come together for a common goal? Where are the instant bonds built between pit neighbors, or the tools shared with the “not haves”, or the parts and pieces given to the competition in an effort to keep them on the track racing? Where are the true karters in this “Kart Life”?

A while back, I read someone had described “club racing” as boring – obviously he hasn’t been to enough “club level” racing events! The potential story lines, the eager participation, the variances in racing programs, the attempts to be competitive on moderate budgets, 5 or 10 karts crossing a finish line within a second or so and the family atmosphere throughout a weekend, is far more entertaining and “promoting” than this “Kart Life” rubbish.

It’s sad for me to think that those “watchers” that are not familiar with karting, are even choosing to watch such a “created catastrophe” – most of whom will never research our sport at all simply because of the false illusions within this show and an idiot producer. I would think we are losing far more potential karters because of this show than we will ever gain. How many individuals are going to watch this and think – “Wow, this looks fun, or gee – let me get my kid get in on this”? Probably very few! And any that were thinking about it, are probably second guessing the whole thing after an episode or two. For most, particularly in this case, I would think no knowledge of karting to be better than any thought of this being a represented truth.

I would doubt that most folks would put themselves, much less their kids into an enviornment demonstrated by “Kart Life” and “TruTV”. It might be entertaining for some, but… Truth is, there is a distinct difference it “publicity” and “promote”. This show absolutely does “publicize” our sport, it’s very sad though, that the “publicity” it provides is extremely poor for all of us. Does the show “promote” our sport – absolutely not!

[Troy V Smith]

My opinion only, but wouldn’t think you’d see much of an increase. Been racing shifters for years, but recently went into Rotax due to entry numbers. I’m learning quickly, any issue with a Rotax motor can be very costly. I’ve found if you maintain your shifter motor and treat it right – it will run dependably for a long time. I suppose the same is also true of the Rotax. On top of that, the ability to fix a shifter motor using your own labor (relatively inexpensively in comparrison to Rotax) without having to send it out for repairs is a cost savings in itself. Honda parts in general are about half the cost of Rotax.

I find that the tire wear on the Rotax to be very similar to that of the Shifter – after all, I don’t think you are going through corners and such any faster on a shifter. Biggest change in the shifter will be the harder braking zones, acceleration and constant pull through the gears. Typically I can get through 2 or three race weekends with a set of MG yellows. That’s about what I’m seeing on the Rotax with D2’s.

And yes, practice your starts. Not neccessarily to get the hole shot, but to not get run over if you stall it. Not a good thing when the rest of the pack is attempting to avoid a stalled kart on the line – and yea, it’ll happen, happens to everyone at one time or another.

[Troy V Smith]

D1? D2?

[Troy V Smith]

I just had a frame done with the same fittings. The powder coater used rubber plugs through those threads to protect them from the powder – very much like plumbers plugs. Don’t forget to cover and/or plug the internal face for your steering column uni-ball bearing and c-clip groove.

[Troy V Smith]

Yes, it’s true – we were offered ice cream in the drivers meeting if everyone made it through turn one!

Yes, we are running a spec tire – MG Reds.  The only other options we are running outside of the LO206 Briggs rule set is a mandated MaxTorque clutch and NGK plug – otherwise, Briggs rule set is followed.

I would expect to see 35+ karts to take the green flag in April!  We have long time shifter drivers jumping into 206’s!

[Troy V Smith]

Just an FYI – we recently got the official LO206 class up and running at NOLA.  NOLA has been a strong primary supporter for the Rotax and Shifter series, but…

This last weekend in only the third race of our season – 28 LO206’s took the green flag – all of which made it out of turn one!   I’ve been in karting, shifters mostly for quite a while now, but the 206 class was the most fun and closest racing I have had in a long, long time!

Anyone promoting and supporting this class is ahead of the game!  Great karting venue!

[Troy V Smith]

I have used it before, but can’t say definitively how the chassis reacted to it.  It was in fact worth 14lbs, but as everyone states – a really bad day for everyone if your bumper falls off.  If you use the option, pour some hot wax in the ends after your shot.  Easy to get out, but holds in the shot if the bumper gets lost.

[Troy V Smith]

Not uncommon.  In my experience, typically, the seat strut is not cut off due to the use of a larger seat, it has been removed due to the use an inboard clutch.  Lots of guys are doing that very same thing when utilizing the Euro type chassis in the new LO206 and four stroke motors.  Seems easier to remove the seat strut than to use an entire jackshaft assembly.  Might get with the previous owners to verify this.

Can’t say either way whether the handling is affected becuse I have no first hand experience with it, but I know a couple of guys which are now using the chassis minus the original seat struts, in Rotax and haven’t heard of any complaints.

[Troy V Smith]

Looks like a large Freeline to me as well – it has the welded brackets in the back?

http://cambriangokarts.com/store/product/5099/Freeline-Radiator-Cap/

[Troy V Smith]

Tim – if you are going to run NOLA (as I am) – the only option you are going to have for the little ones is the 206 or a Rotax package.  We ran a Senior 206 a couple years ago with very little interest in the class, but since last year, the support has greatly expanded along with the interest.  It is by far going to be the largest class this year and will provide far more participation, resources and support than available for the Comer.

Not sure where you’re at, but I am in Morgan City.  We can certainly get together and get you on track with your needs.  Considering your home track, and resources locally, I would suggest the jump to the 206.  Jump on the NOLA forum too –

[Troy V Smith]

Hey Nigel –

this may help…

https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/cr125-piston/

[Troy V Smith]

First thing that I would swap would be the coil – I have found that no spark is usually a simple, yet overlooked issue.  Sounds like your CDI is a 99, where his may be an earlier model.  Last thing I would be doing though, is shorting out two wires in which I didn’t know the purpose – good chance of ruining a good CDI.  Wires are color coded for a reason.  The two wires which are not connected, may very likely be to a kill switch, in which case would cause you to have no spark when connected together anyway.  Try a coil swap and find out what the wires are before shorting them.  jmo

[Troy V Smith]

SKUSA pipe should be under warranty for 6mo. I believe.  Each should be engraved with a serial number, which should also be on your purchase receipt – might look at your warranty options from the seller?

[Troy V Smith]

^+2

 

I had the same issue with faulty temp readings on a Gold – it was nothing more than light corrosion on the board – cleaned and returned by MyChron for about 30 bucks.  I also went to a 4 from a Gold – all of my karts now however, carry the 3’s!

[Troy V Smith]

Makin’ me chuckle Bo – even after dropping the cash on a couple new sets!

[Troy V Smith]

Yea, I thought about the rubber right away, but there was nothing apparent on the tires.  I dug a little deeper and found that the right front wheel seemed to have just a very small bit of wobble to it (just enough to see while rotating).  So I pulled that wheel/tire off and put on another – still had a wobble – tried another – still a mild wobble, but better.  So I pulled the front hub and replaced with new hub – still had a wobble but not nearly as bad (hard to see).  Finally grabbed another wheel – and wobble was gone.

Looks like the front hub was tweaked, and was just amplified by an additional wheel slightly out of round.

OK, so after all this, I used the new hub on the spindle and I went through each and every one of my wheel/tire sets.  I have three full sets of wheels – of the 12 wheels (front and rear), looks like there are 9 which I can see a wobble with my eye!   Wheels are pretty old and have been through quite a bit of racing – probably three years worth – I am guessing we don’t want any noticeable “wobble” in the wheels and there is no real action to take other than get a couple new sets?  Trash em’?

[Troy V Smith]

This is interesting, as we actually took an entire day on Friday and focused our attention to one kart/driver and testing the way the tires worked in various conditions.  Up until this point we were kind of “winging it” by feel.  The day we spent sweating it out, repeating an 8 lap run over and over, taking temp and pressure readings after every run was incredibly worth while.  I/We learned more than we could have ever hoped for.  We learned now what “optimum” temperature to shoot for, what pressure to start at, how high the pressures would increase, what tire characteristics are created with a loose kart, vs, tight.  I feel very confident, without any driver input and using just a temp probe and pressure gauge, I can tell you how the kart is handling for that driver!  I have no exaggeration when I say, we lost over two seconds a lap that day by utilizing the information we gained.  If you don’t have the time, make the time – do some testing of your own – well worth the efforts!

[Troy V Smith]

Thanks for all the replies guys – will be adding the 40 during the week.  I am 5’10”, just a skinny runt, so will try to get 25 mounted to the mid seat back and the remaining 15,  split the difference under the front seat left and right.  I’ll be using pieces of lead which should let me move pieces around if needed.

[Troy V Smith]

Hey Andy – you’re welcome.  Yes, for editing, I use “Cyberlink Media Suite 10”.  Great program that has multiple features at a very reasonable price – works very well with HD and wide screen formats.  One of my videos here in this forum “The NOLA folks” was all done with the Cyberlink Suite.

[Troy V Smith]

Good idea, but is adding lead shot into the frame a legal alternative?  Be a bad day for everyone if the bumper ever came loose??

[Troy V Smith]

Thomas Barth wrote:
Honda no longer produces CR125 motorcycles. Tell me why they would continue to produce engines especially since the company has never produced 125cc kart shifter engines.

As I have no experience at all with any KZ – I’m sure your points are valid with such a motor, but I would think a reality check to be in order with your opinions of the CR125.

A 2013 Chevy Camaro is no longer produced either – doesn’t mean there is no continued support from or for the motor?  Oh well, I guess I’m glad I don’t race dirt bikes anyway.  I really don’t care why HPD has made the decision to provide a continued support for karters, but I do know there are a whole lot of us that appreciate it and have allot to gain from it.  For Honda to step in with the HPD program says allot about it’s commitment and promotion to the sport in general.   And Honda does produce a shifter kart motor – and it’s called a CR125.  it is far from an “imposter” as you call it, it is relatively safe to say that the CR125 is a huge chunk of the shifter kart package as well as a huge following, far exceeding that of the any KZ here in the states.

Intended purpose of the motor is really irrelevant if you ask me.  I could take a KZ motor and turn it into a trolling motor if I wanted to – not practical, but doable.  So to say “this is the motor you need cause it a “kart” motor”, and not this one “cause it’s a dirt bike motor” seems ludicrous to me.

But with that said, if a KZ class was what I had to run here – that’s what I’d have.  There is a whole lot more to making a decision toward engine packages than just, “use this one”.

[Troy V Smith]

What’s HRC?  LOL

[Troy V Smith]

Chris Reinhardt wrote: This couldn’t possibly turn out bad…..

Too funny! Ding, Ding….round two!

Guess we missed Jimmys post?

https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/stock-honda-is-better-than-kz/

Around here it’s tough to find anything other than a stock moto – but we see them, just not real popular.  I don’t believe there is an issue with “OOP” CR125’s.  Yea though – I guess the 1999 cr125 could be considered out of production in 2000.  From what I understand, Honda retains all dies, molds, templates and such to continue to manufacture 99′ CR125 parts,  and with HRD now actively participating in larger karting events – I seriously doubt availability of anything would be an issue – not anywhere in the near future anyway.  I’ve blown up allot of stuff (only caused by mechanic issues – me) and never had an issue with acquiring proper replacements.

[Troy V Smith]

Hmmmm?  Well, now that this came up, I went to the shelf and pulled a A40 A piston and a 506 B piston and did a measurement.  Yes, Chris is right the difference is very little – the “A” piston diameter measured just above the ring grove was 53.761 – the “B” piston (which I though was supposed to be slightly larger), is actually measuring smaller at 53.745mm.  What gives – this screws up my plan! LOL

What would be the benefit of using a smaller piston Chris? I could see going larger after enough wear in the cylinder, but smaller?  How much sidewall clearance is “required”?  Why wouldn’t one want to start with “B” piston and progress to an “A”?

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