Forum Replies Created
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November 13, 2021 at 3:41 pm #114151tony zambosParticipant
Condolences to his family.
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October 5, 2021 at 8:59 pm #113746tony zambosParticipant
Sold
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September 27, 2021 at 7:30 am #113679tony zambosParticipant
Thanks David
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September 26, 2021 at 9:23 pm #113674tony zambosParticipant
Sorry, but using an automatic renewal does not make them a scam. News papers, magazines, lawn services, insurance companies, internet providers all use automatic renewals and they’re not a scam. It is up to the consumer to read and understand a contract between themselves and a vendor.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by tony zambos.
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December 26, 2020 at 12:33 pm #110536tony zambosParticipant
I’ll assume here that the Bendix is engaging and the engine turns over but does not start. First suspect would be a weak battery or a loose battery connection or poor ground. If you’re using a 12v 7Ah battery, switch to 9Ah. You might want to try using the battery from the external starter.
The second suspect would be low compression. -
September 9, 2020 at 10:13 am #109210tony zambosParticipant
Not familiar with shifter karts but I’m guessing the engine does not present any electrical or mechanical indication for neutral. If the shift linkage stops at a fixed position for neutral, a position sensor like a throttle pedal sensor could work. I’d check with AiM.
I had difficulties with a bike finding neutral. Coasting the last few feet to a stop light made it easier to find neutral while moving slowly. -
May 12, 2020 at 7:13 pm #107733tony zambosParticipant
Glad you found the problem
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May 11, 2020 at 11:31 pm #107720tony zambosParticipant
Bill,
have you tried to directly wire the starter to a battery? If you have the starter off the engine when you try this, be sure to secure the starter. It will try to jump off a workbench. Broken motor brushes used to be a problem with the old Leopard starters.
I’ve also had battery chargers fail. A new, fully charged battery should read at least 12.5 volts. -
March 8, 2018 at 7:50 pm #91898tony zambosParticipant
Dan,
I can’t fault any one’s suggestions and you seem to have done all the right stuff, yet you still have a problem. You might want to put the kart on the ground and start loosening all the nuts and bolts in the steering, starting with the upper steering shaft support and work you way down. Please don’t offended, but I’m going to ask the dumbest question ever. Are the tires aired all the way up?Hope you find the answer soon.
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March 8, 2018 at 11:00 am #91876tony zambosParticipant
With the chassis on the ground amd you out of it, turn the wheel completely to the right and note how high the front wheel lifts. Crank the fully the other direction and note how high the other front wheel lifts. If the lift heights are different, the chassis is bent.
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March 3, 2018 at 3:07 pm #91736tony zambosParticipant
Caulk it up to an oops. With the type of tank you have, one of the fittings usually has one red cap and one black with the red being the supply. Yours has two red.
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March 3, 2018 at 12:41 pm #91731tony zambosParticipant
You got it. The fuel line connections are backwards. The green line should go to the fitting that has no line connected to it in the tank. The fuel line connected to the engine should to the fitting that has a line dropping down into the tank. That line should also have a weighted end.
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February 8, 2018 at 8:40 am #91039tony zambosParticipant
The current price of a KA is good bargain thru the end of the month. Have raced a Rotax but not an X-30. There are more pluses for the X-30 over the Rotax. Must say the Rotax was very reliable. Keep in mind it needs a fully charged battery, the power value must be kept clean and the exhaust packing must be changed on occasion. Also to have it run as efficiently as possible you are going to need change the carb jetting and spark plug. Any decent priced Rotax may require many expensive modifications to make it race legal. Check any organization you might race with.
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February 7, 2018 at 7:17 pm #90997tony zambosParticipant
Any good 12v 9Ah should do. Same as an X-30. A word of caution. Bought a couple of inexpensive 12v batteries from a battery store back when we ran a leopard. They last maybe a weekend of road racing. Discovered that those types of batteries do well in an emergency exit signs. They don’t hold up the vibration of a race vehicle. We may have been the exception to the rule as others did ok with cheaper batteries. I went to a large kart retailer and bought his best battery. The battery was as good as ever when the engine sold a couple of years later.
Our KA came with a Duracell 12v 9Ah but haven’t had the opportunity to used it yet. Too blinking cold out. -
January 28, 2018 at 8:45 am #90638tony zambosParticipant
Can’t tell if you’re a karting participant or an observer. Series change, chassis change, tires change and engines come into vogue. I wouldn’t be concerned s to what’s happening around the country. Race your local club and enjoy. If you get the urge to try a bigger series, go out and try it.
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January 2, 2018 at 7:52 pm #89836tony zambosParticipant
Jason,
I have the wheel and have sent you a PM. tony
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December 28, 2017 at 3:41 pm #89713tony zambosParticipant
Agree with Mike. Also, by changing the base gasket, you’re changing the port timing.
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December 22, 2017 at 11:03 am #89612tony zambosParticipant
The M6 nose comes with mounting blocks. There are no issues in changing from the M4 nose to the M6.
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December 21, 2017 at 6:43 pm #89586tony zambosParticipant
The smaller Lithium batteries used to come with a kit to take up the extra space.
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December 21, 2017 at 6:39 pm #89585tony zambosParticipant
M6 side pods to not bolt up M4 side nerf bars. I’d upgrade to the M6 nerfs as I was having issues finding M4 side pods over a year ago. Comet kart sales carries Tony and FA sticker kits. You could try calling to see if they can get the Kosmic.
From my son’s experiences with stickers and the M6 nose, they are a pain to put on. Just a warning. -
December 7, 2017 at 10:15 pm #89199tony zambosParticipant
The 2-disk is OK for a jr canned Yamaha. For a Yamaha senior with a pipe, I’d go with a 3-disk, six spring. I know that’s more rotating mass, but I believe that it’s easier to adjust, will hold that adjustment and there will be fewer head aches.
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December 1, 2017 at 8:36 am #88954tony zambosParticipant
Well from the responses I have another item for a swap meet or have another small parts bin.
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November 11, 2017 at 1:24 pm #88215tony zambosParticipant
Give Don or Scott a call at LAD Specialties, http://www.ladspec.com/. They can give you advice. You have a track near you, Concept Haulers in Norway. Another track that’s not too far from you is Michiana Raceway Park in North Liberty IN.
In our area, you can find local club sprint track racing, a traveling series with Route 66 and road racing with the Championship Enduro Series, CES. -
November 1, 2017 at 11:05 pm #87840tony zambosParticipant
Mike,
PM me with your email and shipping addresses. Will send you a Request from PayPal.
Thanks -
November 1, 2017 at 4:15 pm #87830tony zambosParticipant
Link to pictures of the GPS module. Warning..This site is slow.
Shipping via USPS: $8 to ship just the module & hub
$14 to ship everything seen, module, hub, orig box & manualhttp://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/library/AiM%20GPS05%20Module
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