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    • #114151
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Condolences to his family.

    • #113746
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Sold

    • #113679
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Thanks David

    • #113674
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Sorry, but using an automatic renewal does not make them a scam. News papers, magazines, lawn services, insurance companies, internet providers all use automatic renewals and they’re not a scam. It is up to the consumer to read and understand a contract between themselves and a vendor.

      • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by tony zambos.
    • #110536
      tony zambos
      Participant

      I’ll assume here that the Bendix is engaging and the engine turns over but does not start. First suspect would be a weak battery or a loose battery connection or poor ground. If you’re using a 12v 7Ah battery, switch to 9Ah. You might want to try using the battery from the external starter.
      The second suspect would be low compression.

    • #109210
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Not familiar with shifter karts but I’m guessing the engine does not present any electrical or mechanical indication for neutral. If the shift linkage stops at a fixed position for neutral, a position sensor like a throttle pedal sensor could work. I’d check with AiM.
      I had difficulties with a bike finding neutral. Coasting the last few feet to a stop light made it easier to find neutral while moving slowly.

    • #107733
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Glad you found the problem

    • #107720
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Bill,
      have you tried to directly wire the starter to a battery? If you have the starter off the engine when you try this, be sure to secure the starter. It will try to jump off a workbench. Broken motor brushes used to be a problem with the old Leopard starters.
      I’ve also had battery chargers fail. A new, fully charged battery should read at least 12.5 volts.

    • #91898
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Dan,
      I can’t fault any one’s suggestions and you seem to have done all the right stuff, yet you still have a problem. You might want to put the kart on the ground and start loosening all the nuts and bolts in the steering, starting with the upper steering shaft support and work you way down. Please don’t offended, but I’m going to ask the dumbest question ever. Are the tires aired all the way up?

      Hope you find the answer soon.

    • #91876
      tony zambos
      Participant

      With the chassis on the ground amd you out of it, turn the wheel completely to the right and note how high the front wheel lifts. Crank the fully the other direction and note how high the other front wheel lifts. If the lift heights are different, the chassis is bent.

    • #91736
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Caulk it up to an oops. With the type of tank you have, one of the fittings usually has one red cap and one black with the red being the supply. Yours has two red.

    • #91731
      tony zambos
      Participant

      You got it. The fuel line connections are backwards. The green line should go to the fitting that has no line connected to it in the tank. The fuel line connected to the engine should to the fitting that has a line dropping down into the tank. That line should also have a weighted end.

    • #91039
      tony zambos
      Participant

      The current price of a KA is good bargain thru the end of the month. Have raced a Rotax but not an X-30. There are more pluses for the X-30 over the Rotax. Must say the Rotax was very reliable. Keep in mind it needs a fully charged battery, the power value must be kept clean and the exhaust packing must be changed on occasion. Also to have it run as efficiently as possible you are going to need change the carb jetting and spark plug. Any decent priced Rotax may require many expensive modifications to make it race legal. Check any organization you might race with.

    • #90997
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Any good 12v 9Ah should do. Same as an X-30. A word of caution. Bought a couple of inexpensive 12v batteries from a battery store back when we ran a leopard. They last maybe a weekend of road racing. Discovered that those types of batteries do well in an emergency exit signs. They don’t hold up the vibration of a race vehicle. We may have been the exception to the rule as others did ok with cheaper batteries. I went to a large kart retailer and bought his best battery. The battery was as good as ever when the engine sold a couple of years later.
      Our KA came with a Duracell 12v 9Ah but haven’t had the opportunity to used it yet. Too blinking cold out.

    • #90638
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Can’t tell if you’re a karting participant or an observer. Series change, chassis change, tires change and engines come into vogue. I wouldn’t be concerned s to what’s happening around the country. Race your local club and enjoy. If you get the urge to try a bigger series, go out and try it.

    • #89836
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Jason,

      I have the wheel and have sent you a PM. tony

    • #89713
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Agree with Mike. Also, by changing the base gasket, you’re changing the port timing.

    • #89612
      tony zambos
      Participant

      The M6 nose comes with mounting blocks. There are no issues in changing from the M4 nose to the M6.

    • #89586
      tony zambos
      Participant

      The smaller Lithium batteries used to come with a kit to take up the extra space.

    • #89585
      tony zambos
      Participant

      M6 side pods to not bolt up M4 side nerf bars. I’d upgrade to the M6 nerfs as I was having issues finding M4 side pods over a year ago. Comet kart sales carries Tony and FA sticker kits. You could try calling to see if they can get the Kosmic.
      From my son’s experiences with stickers and the M6 nose, they are a pain to put on. Just a warning.

    • #89199
      tony zambos
      Participant

      The 2-disk is OK for a jr canned Yamaha. For a Yamaha senior with a pipe, I’d go with a 3-disk, six spring. I know that’s more rotating mass, but I believe that it’s easier to adjust, will hold that adjustment and there will be fewer head aches.

    • #88954
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Well from the responses I have another item for a swap meet or have another small parts bin.

    • #88215
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Give Don or Scott a call at LAD Specialties, http://www.ladspec.com/. They can give you advice. You have a track near you, Concept Haulers in Norway. Another track that’s not too far from you is Michiana Raceway Park in North Liberty IN.
      In our area, you can find local club sprint track racing, a traveling series with Route 66 and road racing with the Championship Enduro Series, CES.

    • #87840
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Mike,
      PM me with your email and shipping addresses. Will send you a Request from PayPal.
      Thanks

    • #87830
      tony zambos
      Participant

      Link to pictures of the GPS module. Warning..This site is slow.

      Shipping via USPS: $8 to ship just the module & hub
      $14 to ship everything seen, module, hub, orig box & manual

      http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/library/AiM%20GPS05%20Module

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