Forum Replies Created
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July 14, 2015 at 8:07 am #51395Scottie MelanconParticipant
Yep. Page 24 of the 2015 Reg shows the bushing.
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July 13, 2015 at 5:47 pm #51370Scottie MelanconParticipant
I believe Maxspeed recently updated the entire website. It may have not made it back to the new site. Considering that it From a bulletin in February, it may have been included in the 2015 regs that were published in March or April?
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July 13, 2015 at 5:36 pm #51367Scottie MelanconParticipant
I’d stay away. Archaic system and very poor support……also …the guy who peddles this junk is a wanker.
It went in the garbage with my last laptop. Wasn’t worth the hassle to get a user code again.
I prefer the Kartmax App. Much easy to use and doesn’t require a lap top. It gets you very close. You can tune with your eyes and driver feed back from that point.
i don’t think the app has been updated yet for the the EVO.
The EVO appears to have a much smaller tuning window. We’ve been jetting from 125 to 118 without a discernible performance gain.
Until the app is updated, just consult with the other junior rotax guys in the paddock.
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July 13, 2015 at 4:28 pm #51364Scottie MelanconParticipant
I’ve also noticed that the coil rotates on the mount of my kids junior rotax when warming up.
Now your the second person to tell me that there is a mandatory requirement for installing the isolation bushing but I’ve yet to find anything on the Maxspeed website even mentioning the issue much less requiring a modification. The last bulletin on July 11 doesn’t appear to have this requirement. Am I missing something?
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July 13, 2015 at 3:30 pm #51362Scottie MelanconParticipant
Haven’t heard of issues with ECU’s at our track, but I was recently informed that Max Speed is now shipping coils with a rubber bushing that you place between the coil housing and bracket. I’m guessing it’s the same as what is provided for the ECU to minimize vibration. This person told me that there have been some instances where the resin seals have cracked on coils.
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July 13, 2015 at 3:18 pm #51361Scottie MelanconParticipant
We’ve never had an issue with it off. Do you have a Mychron connected to the battery?
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July 13, 2015 at 3:12 pm #51360Scottie MelanconParticipant
I think it’s a good idea to seal the exhaust socket the best you can. You can use the RTV silicone or you may want to consider purchasing the new EVO exhaust socket and use the gasket sealing ring. Regardless of which method, I would highly recommend using 4 springs in lieu of 2. My son’s exhaust seals well with either method as long as we have 4 springs. If you use the RTV, you’ll find that it doesn’t last long due to the heat and vibration, so you may have to reseal every couple of runs. I really like the new gasket seals and socket. It is difficult to install the gasket without breaking it though. I found that heating it up helps with getting it around the socket.
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April 28, 2015 at 1:51 pm #47116Scottie MelanconParticipant
Are you grounding to the correct location? The EVO requires the ground to be installed on the left rear cylinder head bolt. We had a few folks at our track that had similar issues. They attached the ground to the proper location identified in the installation manual and it fixed the issue.
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April 23, 2015 at 2:08 pm #46715Scottie MelanconParticipant
Roman,
Are you grounding to the correct location? The EVO requires the ground to be installed on the left rear cylinder head bolt. We had a few folks at our track that had similar issues. They attached the ground to the proper location identified in the installation manual and it fixed the issue.
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April 14, 2015 at 7:53 am #46006Scottie MelanconParticipant
Installed the new style exhaust socket on our upgraded motor and mated to old style exhaust socket using old style springs. The required mating gasket has plastic/metallic feel and is very fragile. I broke one while attempting to slide it on the new exhaust socket. Decided to run it anyway and appeared to seal very well. No leaks, even with a broken gasket. Consider buying a few spares or being very careful putting it on the socket.
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April 14, 2015 at 7:42 am #46005Scottie MelanconParticipant
Did you mean to say “Master Cylinder”? Can’t imagine how the brake calipers would be that far north of the rear. I own an adult Arrow, but the master cylinder is located in the typical position. Not sure why DPE locates it that far back to start with on cadet? Have you considered relocating the master cylinder forward? You’d probably need longer brake lines and a mounting surface though?
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April 7, 2015 at 6:42 am #45599Scottie MelanconParticipant
Used 115, 118, 120, 122 and 125 jets over a two day period last weekend both testing and racing. Weather conditions were pretty stable with a 10 to 15 degree total change in temps (track at sea level, 60 – 75 degree temps). No discernible performance gains or losses when changing jets. We maintained what we perceived as best jetting using plug color because the driver couldn’t notice a difference, even when we new we were too rich, he said it felt great. Zero bog. The new carb appears to meet objectives set out by Rotax for Junior Rotax. Now that doesn’t appear to be the case with Micro Max from what I witnessed.
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January 20, 2015 at 6:29 pm #40798Scottie MelanconParticipant
They have a good product. I like the software but support and this bull crap antiquated key code system is ridicules.
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January 20, 2015 at 6:13 pm #40796Scottie MelanconParticipant
1 week later and I still nothing? Received an email from Colin asking me for information like the serial number of my dead laptop. Sent everything request. Nothing! No response. I sent 4 additional emails over the last week. NOTHING! Why is this so difficult?!? Anyone else who owns this software having the same experience?
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January 14, 2015 at 3:16 pm #40465Scottie MelanconParticipant
Matt,
Check out the CRG Tuning Manual. Upper right hand side of the CRG America page. It’s a very good read. http://www.crg-america.com
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January 14, 2015 at 7:30 am #40434Scottie MelanconParticipant
Thanks for your assistance Colin. I’ll provide the requested info this evening when I have the old laptop with me.
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December 5, 2014 at 4:27 pm #38427Scottie MelanconParticipant
Jim,
Throttle response and top end issues were more easily over come by the HAVES with better carbs and and coils that were found through many years of the product being on the market. For $388, everyone starts from scratch. Playing field equalized….for awhile.
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December 4, 2014 at 3:55 pm #38353Scottie MelanconParticipant
I spoke to J3 about the kart and it sounds legit. The frame is their proprietary design built by BirelART. At first I figured it was just a copy of the new Birel S7 chassis painted to match J3 livery, but after looking closer at some pics they sent it had some obvious differences. I noticed that the vertical supports for the fuel tank and steering column looked more like an OTK, so that in itself shows that it is a one off design and the fact that it is built to the quality standards in Lissone is great. Even if the frame shares some similarities to the S7 then that’s probably a good thing as the few S7’s and CompKART’s that raced at Super Nats all faired pretty well. Apparently they get the frames shipped to the US bare and inspect and paint them here. 30 mm only. Black or Flor Yellow. They also decided to go with Freeline brakes. You can get the new 2015 one piece caliper brakes also. The remaining components are what they feel work best with the kart. Many of which are J3 developed and branded. These guys have a great reputation. I’m sure their karts are well thought out and developed. With J3 strong support it’ll be a sure winner. Ours ships tomorrow.
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December 4, 2014 at 12:39 pm #38340Scottie MelanconParticipant
We run Rotax Junior. Best I can tell from what Rotax has published is that the only items that will provide a performance advantage with the new upgrades is the carb and ignition system. The carb has been redesigned to improve bottom end power/throttle response and minimize the effects of environmental changes so that the carb is much easier to tune. The new ignition system improves the power band and rpm in the 12K to 14K range. These were two issues that many customers have always bitched about…so Rotax fixed it! For the price of a cheap axle and sticker kit ($500) the playing field will better equalized.
The other upgrades are designed to improve durability only.
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October 27, 2014 at 3:09 pm #36050Scottie MelanconParticipant
Barber Motorsports Park is spending more than $4 million on a new addition called the Barber Proving Grounds. The complex includes a new track area and wet/dry skidpad that will accommodate additional events while the existing track is in use. Mercedes-Benz USA is the first customer, using the Proving Grounds for its employee “Brand Immersion Experience
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June 20, 2014 at 11:49 am #29195Scottie MelanconParticipant
I agree with Clay. Just use a liquid detergent and just wring it out. It will swell until it fully dries. This is not something you want so do on race day because it can take a few hours for the filter to completely dry. Best to attach it to the front of a fan to make sure all the moisture is removed. Back flow from the carb will keep the filter lubricated. Clean the filter often to maximize performance we do it after each race.
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March 18, 2014 at 6:19 pm #24063Scottie MelanconParticipant
Birel banana brakes
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October 9, 2014 at 6:32 am #35058Scottie MelanconParticipant
MaxSpeed didn’t “buy” Rok Cup. It appears that they are simply organizing and running the Cup in place of the Formula TAG weekend. I’m pretty sure MaxSpeed will be paid by ROK to do this. Good opportunity for MaxSpeed Entertainment to help offset fixed cost associated with the FWT and continue to promote a very popular series and help it to grow. ROK is not much of a threat to Rotax nation wide.
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June 20, 2014 at 11:40 am #29194Scottie MelanconParticipant
Yes! Always make sure to remove the needle valve when cleaning. I’ve toasted two engines in the past by not doing this. Also, soak a q-tip
with wd40 and swab the needle valve seat before replacing. This helps initial lubrication of the seat. The carb cleaner can dry out the seat potentially causing the needle valve to stick during startup after cleaning.
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May 8, 2014 at 8:45 pm #27160Scottie MelanconParticipant
That’s how I do it. After the bath, I blow high pressure are through it then hit with carb cleaner. Make sure to soak a Q-tip in WD40 and swab the float valve seat. This helps prevent the valve from sticking which could be real Bad. Also, never use a solvent with the ultra sonic bath. Us a mild liquid detergent.
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