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    • #90943
      Roman
      Participant

      1 sold, 1 package still left

    • #80831
      Roman
      Participant

      You can put one or multiple pieces of tape to get the temps up.

      Aim to run it at 130-140F. Once it gets to 150F or above, there will be noticeable loss of power on the bottom end.

    • #69861
      Roman
      Participant

      Sold

    • #65647
      Roman
      Participant

      We tested with and without metal restrictor in the black hose and it didn’t seem to matter

    • #65594
      Roman
      Participant

      I went through all of this last year.
      http://gorotax.com/information-bulletin-dellorto-ignition-system-how-to-assure-faultless-function/

      I had an issue that the engine stopped revving past 12500 after the upgrade. Turns out it needed a crank sensor gasket installed, so it doesn’t pick up as much noise from the crank.

      Also, all of a sudden an engine stopped revving past 10000 during one of the races. Wiring harness (EVO v1) went bad.

      I would try a crank sensor first. If you are determined to take an engine to your engine builder, may be get him your wiring harness as well

    • #62540
      Roman
      Participant

      If crank sensor is picking up too much noise, then without crank sensor gasket the engine won’t rev past 12500. At least, that’s the symptom that I had in Feb 2015. You could hear a bad sound when it cuts off exactly at 12500, and it feels like an electrical issue. If it revs past 12500 and slowly picks up RPM, I doubt it’s that.

      Hard to tell anything else without knowing spark plug type, float height, etc. My guess is that it’s still too rich with 128 and 130. Give it a try with Denso IW-27 and 125 main jet. And make sure you have the right gear ratio and floats are not too lean.

      P.S. It’s not uncommon to have people run 120 and 122 too, so you can try this for 1 session – it’s not going to hurt the engine.

    • #60709
      Roman
      Participant

      you can PM me with specific questions

    • #58238
      Roman
      Participant

      I have Tony 20124 for sale. See PM.

    • #56929
      Roman
      Participant

      There are different fuel lines. If you use freeline for example, it will sit pretty tight on the T-connector.

      Just follow this, pressure-based and put a long spring on the outside:

      http://gorotax.com/documents/2015/07/bulletin-2015-7-modified-regulations-2015-united-states-rotax-max-technical-regulations-exhaust-valve.pdf

    • #53630
      Roman
      Participant

      Ok. Thanks, Blake

    • #53603
      Roman
      Participant

      Is the consensus here that pretty much everything should be rubber mounted, i.e. Coil, Ebox, and PV solenoid? 1 rubber standoff for coil, 1 for ebox, 2 for PV solenoid?

    • #53006
      Roman
      Participant

      Yep. The problem looks exactly the same. Awesome description on the forum!

    • #52963
      Roman
      Participant

      Another harness failed for me just last Saturday. All of a sudden, power valve stopped working and it would stay open all the time. We were chasing it down for several hours, finally replaced harness after replacing everything else and it started working.

      I guess I’m that unlucky that I hit EVO crank sensor issue on two different engines and two EVO harnesses failed for me. Even engine starter failed last week also.

       

    • #51997
      Roman
      Participant
    • #51570
      Roman
      Participant

      Will be sending a warranty claim to Rotax…

    • #51564
      Roman
      Participant

      Had an issue last weekend.

      5 minutes before the heat race, all of a sudden kart wouldn’t start on a stand. Quickly changed e-box and coil, it fired, got it out on a track.

      Two laps into the heat race, engine stopped revving past 9,000-10,000 RPM. Couldn’t start it after the heat.

      Tried electrical degrease on wiring harness connectors and it didn’t help. Installed a new wiring harness and it’s all good.

    • #51563
      Roman
      Participant

      We installed the latest PV update with a new T-connector and a new spring last weekend.

      The power valve wouldn’t even open. Unless you reverse the green piece and point the arrow in the opposite direction… it starts opening, but even then it doesn’t work correctly. So we went back to the old setup with Y connector.

      There is probably something that we’ve done incorrectly. Any tips?

    • #47030
      Roman
      Participant

      Problem solved. Crank sensor. The old one didn’t go bad and I’m pretty sure it will work just fine with old-style ignition. But the new EVO stuff seems to be more sensitive to it

    • #46722
      Roman
      Participant

      Thanks, guys.

      PV gasket seems to be installed correctly, but I will double check. Ground is also correct, installed per EVO upgrade kit manual on the left rear bolt of cylinder head.

      I am going to the track tomorrow to replace EVO parts one by one. Will report progress.

    • #95228
      Roman
      Participant

      yes, 650 267 0074

    • #90529
      Roman
      Participant

      yes, they are. sent a PM

    • #89976
      Roman
      Participant

      brand new, stock

    • #89943
      Roman
      Participant

      PM sent

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