[Peter Zambos]

https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/fa-kart/

It’s in good shape, and could fit the bill with an inexpensive set of wheels. Let us know if you’re interested.

[Peter Zambos]

If you’re just starting in racing, and have never owned a kart before, the first thing I would do is not start with a shifter. If you want to learn how to be a good kart driver, two of the most important things to learn is to be consistent and smooth. That’s near impossible for a karting rookie who’s too busy trying to keep the rear end gripped and banging through the gears. A shifter is fast and attractive, but if you’re in the sport for the long-haul, I would urge you to consider 100cc or 4 cycle for your first kart.

[Peter Zambos]

What configuration are they running?

[Peter Zambos]

Dan, have you considered simply calling L.A.D.?
708-430-1588

[Peter Zambos]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Of the single gear 125cc engines, the X30 is one of the more common. Being that the U.S. is so vast, it rather depends to what region you’re migrating. But yeah, KF/OK don’t really have a home here.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>The big hitters series-wise are USPKS, W.K.A. Manufacters’ Cup, and SKUSA. There are also many regional series.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Do you know where is the States you’re heading?</p>

[Peter Zambos]

PM my dad, Tony Zambos. He’s done that many times with the 4. Though it might be exactly the same, he could have some helpful hints.

[Peter Zambos]

Sold – Thanks, EKN.

[Peter Zambos]

Update: this Rotax package is currently priced at $500. Please PM me with any questions.

[Peter Zambos]

Update: price drop to $800. Additionally, this includes a spare nose, pods, and side nerfs. One need is bent, but probably can be reshaped with some determination. Standard wheels. Sans stickers.

[Peter Zambos]

I was skeptical at first, especially when it was first introduced. Its 2nd generation seems to work better. This has now lead us to the current situation in which one karter says “I’ve heard/seen good things,” when the next karter says the opposite. Frankly, the only way to put the matter to bed is to run it. Now that USPKS will do just that next year solves that issue. All we have to do is watch how it plays out. Everything else is, effectively, is conjecture.

[Peter Zambos]

I use Rapid Prep and then Rapid Tac. It’s easier to manuver the graphics and they stick better and with far fewer bubbles. I’m sure there are those that think it’s a waste, but the two products made my life a little easier.

[Peter Zambos]

I would keep the Top Kart as long as the chassis is not too worn (flattened) on the bottom, bent, or sagging. Though it’s a few good years old, racing a lower HP class means that you haven’t put the thing through the wringer.
When you make a change to your program, as you are, going from club to a little traveling, you want to keep things consistent. This is so you can utilize the experience you have on the current kart to the new tracks. Trust me, last year, we did most of the USPKS races for the first time on a new frame. This meant unknown kart, tires, and tracks. We even changed classes, so we really went in blind. As a result, we didn’t post better than 11 all year. So keep it simple when making changes.
As to the change in chassis performance, at the top level of karting in the U.S., OTK doesn’t have the exclusivity on winning.
So I’d keep the chassis for now, and put some aside for when it’s no longer working for you.
Good luck.

[Peter Zambos]

Agreed. Though I’ve worked with others before, they were definitely the easiest, and their product is great. I even had to give them a custom template, since I use a Shoei, and they took care of it, no problem.

[Peter Zambos]

Yep, zilch is the correct number of inches your hair should be outside of your safety gear.
I believe I was nearby that incident as well.

[Peter Zambos]

It’s really simple. Engage starter shaft. Activate starter. Blip throttle. Disengage starter. You might have to choke the intake for a second if you just put a fresh carb on it.
If you have to do anything else, then something else is wrong. Does the clutch and axle spin easily while the kart is on the stand?

[Peter Zambos]

L.A.D. Specialties
I’ve been their customer for decades and they do excellent Rotax work. They’re in Bridgeview, IL, so you could drive there, otherwise the close distance will cut down on the shipping charges.
ladspec.com

[Peter Zambos]

A “direct drive clutch,” Omar? If it has a clutch, it’s not direct drive.

[Peter Zambos]

Typically, an engine isn’t going to rev high unless it’s being given enough fuel to do so. Though you’ve tried two carbs, I would think that you’re supplying more fuel than you think. I know that you stated that there is no tension on the throttle cable, but is the slide seated all the way down in the carb? If there’s a hang up anywhere in that assembly (which is pretty easy to achieve if you’re not careful), you could be effectively gassing it more. Since you still have the airbox off, just take a look.
Of course, if you’re still having chronic issues, my Rotax works perfectly and is still for sale. :)

[Peter Zambos]

Most have the price at $395 for the karting version.

[Peter Zambos]

The foam collar does nothing. It will not protect against the hyperextention, hyperflexion, and compression that the braces do (or at least try to do), nor does it protect against collar bone injuries caused by the helmet during the event of an accident (this was the reasoning once given to me by a WKA official).

[Peter Zambos]

Agreed. Between the two that you mentioned, Valhalla makes the better product. The EVS flexes too much and does not prevent enough potentially injurious movement. However, the Valhalla is bulky.
The Leatt is definitely more pricey, but lighter and not as restrictive as the Valhalla. It’s definitely worth the additional cost.

[Peter Zambos]

Ric, I wasn’t attempting to make anything personal. After a 14 hour night shift, it’s apparent that I can’t proof-read myself well enough to make sure I don’t sound like a jerk. My apologies.
Most sprinters don’t consider a dual rear brake, as putting a second caliper on the left side often gets in the way of the mount for the torsion bar, and since many don’t have the third bearing tight, placing it there would significantly change the kart’s characteristics. It’s, more often than not, just not a good option.

[Peter Zambos]

If it’s class that is run typically as a sprint class, then, if the NRRS wants it increase it’s numbers, they should make it an option. That being said, pre-tech that is thorough is essential. I’ve been to NRRS events where the pre-tech has been unsatisfactory, and that can’t happen when brakes are involved.
I don’t know where this $100 figure came up for front brakes.2 rotors, 2 brake rotor hubs, stub axles with caliper mounts, 2 calipers, 2 front wheels hubs, brake lines and a master cylinder. Find all that for $100, and I’ll be impressed. It’s a cost that’s an impediment for sprinters to go road racing.
I’m sorry, I haven’t been racing for 30 years, only 29. There comes a time where the racer has to be accountable for the condition of his/her gear for the safety of that driver and of others. If you’ve no respect for your gear or the speed you’re running, you can have 6 calipers on your kart, and your gear will still fail. In CES, they have front brakes as an option in classes that aren’t exclusively road raced and don’t typically have front brakes, and, because of good pre-tech (at least consistently better than I experienced in NRRS) and respect for the equipment and each other, there has not been a serious injury related to brake failure to my knowledge.
So, if you’re tossing gears or in a lay-down, then keep it manditory. But if you show up in a KPV, no, you shouldn’t.

[Peter Zambos]

For you bean poles, are porch extensions legal at your track/club/series? That way, you can keep the seat in good spot for weight, but also get your knees down from your ear lobes.

[Peter Zambos]

Jack, I’ve never raced Laguna Seca, but I’ve road raced a good deal. I’ve found that the answer is: it depends. With the harder compounds, we ran higher pressures than standard sprint pressures. With softer tires, such as Dunlop D_M or Hoosier R60a, I ran sprint pressures. I’m not sure what type of compound you’re using.

[Author]

Posts