[Oscar Aguilera]

Was kind of wondering the same thing I saw pics from Karting in Vegas and came here for “karting news” on my electronic device. …and zippo? What gives

Oscar

[Oscar Aguilera]

self promoted joking post….

i will not be on here for a while as my AA meetings take too much time away since i read all these pages and started drinking Moonshine after papas brought it up.

just for fun i would like for paul k to debate gearing all by himself and see where he ends up on that theory?  lmao!!!  rotf!

yes if you have been here long enough…you will get that joke!

[Oscar Aguilera]

slow in….means that the tactical side of racing in that particular corner sees no advantage to going in balls out to that corner…because the arc of that single corner puts you in an exit…that is the wrong position to be in to take the next corner effectively to maximize speed coming out.

slow out means that tactically….it is almost a blocking situation because of the design of the track.  better to brake late to defend or go in as fast as possible and maybe scrub off more speed than necessary so as to defend or be able to set up for the next straight or corner.

if you go slow in or slow out all the time….your just slow…but sometimes you need to be more tactical in your driving so as to maximize your position on the track.  and that is the “magic”….knowing when to do this…when not too…and how many times you can be aggressive before cooking the tires…and then you have to ask yourself if the race you entered allows new tires for the final…or you have been on the same tires and tire wear is an issue.

 

plus the track changes…its more predictable in ashpalt racing…but it changes, so if you cant stay ahead of the track conditions and you have no on board tuning gadgets you need to read the track…PLUS as things heat up…and wear during the race…you will have to adjust your lines.

you are ALWAYS trying to maximize your lap…duh…but the computer can only map out one lap and one corner at a time with all the variables you input…the variables change with every lap and with other competitiors on the track.  this is for the computer needs that think there is one formula you can plug in and viola…answer spits out like in those cheesy 60’s movies.

 

AND you set your kart to come in late…or sometimes in the middle of the race…or sometimes in the begining….the strategy of where you start.

hope i answered your question without dwelling into the tuning of the kart so much…because the tuning is a major part of the equation…can make or break you…it isnt the only part of the equation.

 

 

[Oscar Aguilera]

IMO there is no difference in turning only left or both left and right as to what needs to happen in a kart.

the rear inside wheel must lift…or unload (sometimes just skimming the ground is enough) in order to turn a kart with a solid live axle effectively…to maximize the speed through the corner.

as for the control….i agree that it can control it…but in a kart…the “jacking”  (front spindle) is not the only thing accomplishing the ability for the kart to turn…control it.

if that were the case….we would tune the whole kart with only one tuning input.

from racing on the dirt in a minisprint i have learned that the “timing” is the shock.  how quickly the left rear compresses and then how quickly…or slowly it rebounds.  more grip or a larger radius corner and the timing of the rebound must be slowed down.

in a kart you accomplish that with …axle…hubs…seat struts etc.

but in a LTO kart you preload…or unload the corners with the jacking adjustment…since you are only an LTO mode.  so maybe concentrating on that adjustment is the key in an Lto dirt …asphalt kart…i dont know…never raced a kart on the dirt or on an oval.

thats my take…lol

[Oscar Aguilera]

no one has answered you so i will try.  IMO the softer chassis is not ideal for the 125 shifter class….UNLESS….you a very short…or light….like a 150# or less driver….or a jr shifter class kart.

 

that doesnt mean it wont work and if the price is right for a used one…..i can make it work!  but if you are a big guy…i would recommend the all 32 chassis from CRG  there are plenty of companies that feature a 30/32 chassis for the 125 class,,,,but  IMO those chassis usually run stiffer axles than you would in a 32 mm chassis. that is not necessarily a bad thing…… ive seen both up front with different set ups and both equally as fast.  and if you are fairly new to it…then there isnt much difference because your learning curve will be equally as steep in either size…any make chassis.

 

just my opinion

[Oscar Aguilera]

im not trying to add classes or take away.  i think leave it alone.  everything is fine considering how well the races seem to race over the days involved.  the thread was about the buzz…. if i post to instagram,,, i can share it to a number of other sites like facebook.  IMO that is why there is less buzz on here.  IMO there should be a link from the ekn twitter that shares all posts to a forum section that can be posted too from twitter.

if i write something or post a pic…why would i then come on here to talk about it?

if the forum section that posted twitter could then be posted on from a person on that section????dont know if you can make that happen?  but th

so who can make a section called Kart Twitter that would scroll all the twitter posts with a related has tag….named by the moderator?  ie….#RMC  #SKUSA17.  this would drive peeps to this site to see what the hashtag is and then all involved would use the hashtag. then others can start following

IMO the forums should be helpful and less drama.  they should be about getting people into karting and giving advice to those that need it.  and if the pics we post from races were somehow posted to this site…there would be more traffic.  i would rather see pics and how things are going from the race in the first place.  and now with short vids thrown in…it makes it more possible to check in.

i dont think any monies need to be spent promoting the event because there is no payout to the promoters of the event for spectators….

i honestly havent been to a supernats since the first one that wasnt called supernats…so not sure what things can be done to make more money for skusa.

concessions would be where i focused IMO.

if the casino advertises on radio i know it is pretty easy for them to get an exchange of ad time for interviews with some representatives that has something interesting to talk about.  have a driver get interviewed.  have some show girts go with the driver…discuss something about the race, casino, etc.  i did that here in houston with the dog racing track that advertised on the radio.

just my opinion

[Oscar Aguilera]

i believe howie and i feel bad for the sport as well.  pretty sorry….and someone paid for them….bet no one will come forward admitting they paid that much!!!

when i ran pro tour i carried 2 sets of rains the whole year…not to mention all the back up parts.  at the end of the year i still had 2 sets!  charge it to the game!  why spend so much to go to an event only to lose out because of a $2 part…or a $200 part/set of tires

you cant blame skusa..you cant blame mg…and you cant blame the weather man!

blame your self IMO. and for the gouging…it is just sick,,,,but there are plenty of drivers that would have traded there $2000 helmets for a set of tires at that point..and that is why it is just sick that some will spend so much in a little ole go kart that doesnt even have a wing and only has 1 cylinder…isnt it!

but im still trying to get there to spend all my money just to say i went finally!  maybe 2014 is my year?  i might bring 4 sets of rains..but i will have to bring a white helmet..lmao

[Oscar Aguilera]

damit!  i missed this race again!!!

 

anyway, i agree with what howie said…and i wasnt there…so i ask a question…

 

is it possible some big money ho type dads offered the big money for the last sets of tires?  the $1000 – $1500 a set price…and the shop obliged?  just asking.  because then the stories can start of how the shop sold these tires at outrageous prices.  kinda goes with going to a skusa event and staying at motel 6…or going to a skusa event and staying at a resort….the stories of how much it costs to race skyrocket with the ability for people to spend that much in the first place.

 

just my opinion…and maybe…just maybe i will be able to show up next year…and it wont rain preferably

[Oscar Aguilera]

my old retired engine builder taught me how to do this…paul leary

[Oscar Aguilera]

if it is a crg heron “plus” it is an early 2000 model.  heron plus had a yellow chassis with black components and was the first round of calipers that led to todays awesome crg brakes.  at that time there was a love hate with the brakes….they tend to lock up if you dont have a very sensitive feel for them.  i loved them but most thought they were too sensitive.  there were three models which had no markings to tell them apart from what i know.  the way you can tell is by where the main side rail attaches to the “u” shaped front half chassis rail.  the plate that holds the brake master cylinder is what helps indentify soft, medium, or hard/rain chassis.  the longer the plate the softer the chassis.  the longer the plate from the side rail the softer the chassis because the rear main rails angle in at a faster rate and weld further back on the ‘u” section.

 

hope this helps…either way you still have to tune it!  go by any current seat measurements and you will be fine.  if it is the stiffer chassis you will be fast when the track is green or slick…but you will be over stuck when the track gets grippy.  i learned this the hard way back in the day! lol  with the extra power of the 125 you should be fine and it shouldnt be as noticable…i ran an 80cc on this same chassis and it was too stiff.

[Oscar Aguilera]

havent been on here in a while…if you are tuning a non programmable ignition motor with a shifter type carb…ie mikuni,,,delorto…etc i was taught this method

 

my top end goal egt would be 1250 for me on my one motor…(i had another motor that liked 1300)  to play it safe go for 1200.

i would sit in the kart with the motor off and the aif filter off and try to hit 1/2 throttle with my foot while some one verified if i was at half throttle…i would train myself to hit this spot as consistently as possible…then 3/4 throttle…then 1/4 throttle.  verifying each time till i could get a consistent feel.

 

i would then go on the track and about just past half way down the straight…i would go from full throttle back to 1/4….look at the tach and remember the number.  you are looking for around 1050.  then on the next lap after hitting full throttle down the straight just past the halfway point…i would back off to 1/2 throttle…remember the temp…i was looking for 1100….at 3/4 throttle i was looking for 1150.  if your high end temp is higher you adjust your range accordingly…you are looking for 50 degree increments going backwards from your high end of the straight desired temp.

 

check the plug…learn to read it…verify…get a feel for the egt your motor likes with your particular gauge and you will be able to better tune your motor.  it takes time..the ability to read the gauge…and a few uninterrupted laps.  this helped when traveling or tuning the motor for changing weather conditions…which you always chase.

 

just my opinion

[Author]

Posts