[Oliver Kell]

Ryan, you might get better luck if you put wtb in front, of you’re Want(ing) To Buy

[Oliver Kell]

I’ll take the bumper if shipping is reasonableish.
also wondering if the wheels are a CRG bolt pattern.

zip code 98240
Blaine WA
pm me

thanks
Oliver

[Oliver Kell]

Price?

[Oliver Kell]

Don’t ask about mxc rims.
if you have sticker shock on the normal mags you may have a heart attack when you see the price on those babies!
I’m still a little shocked on them!

[Oliver Kell]

That’s a loaded question!
If i remember correctly, Mark Dismore wrote a pretty good article that is on his shop’s website on this topic.

Generally speaking, magnesium are lighter (lower rotational mass) and don’t heat up as quickly, or get as hot as a result. This keeps the tire pressure more consistent throughout a longer run (i.e. a race).

Aluminum will heat up quicker, which can be advantageous in cooler conditions. Aluminum is also less brittle. I cannot recall ever seeing an aluminum rim with a chunk out of it, but have seen many mag rims missing chunks.

Also, if you’re on a crg or crg made kart the front bolt pattern is different (same size as a rear) i don’t think any other manufacturers do this.

Never heard of a track mandating one type over an other, but if your son is racing Jr he’s probably got to run 6’s

[Oliver Kell]

I’m going to agree with the notion that PSL did not see it coming. It was only late summer that the western Canadian CRG distributor became a PSL dealer.

In doing my research for a track operation I did hear a few repeated concerns about some pretty agresive business taticts on the rental side of things. Having said that, business is business and they’ve obviously been successful.

I haven’t had any experience dealing with them on the equipment side and wondering what other people have experienced.

I’m sure a company like k1 knows exactly what the margins are in each sbu, and i don’t know how many customers they will bring from the rental side to the racing side (which I’m sure CRG is hoping for).

I also wonder if this means they will be miving from OTL rentals to CRG, even though I haven’t seen anything electric from CRG. Still surprising as last i heard CRG’s turnaround on orders was still six months and OTL recently moved into a new facility.

Has there been any suggestions of k1 getting into the outdoor track business?

[Oliver Kell]

Only issue with storing it for that period of time will be the gas separating, and maybe gas in the carb.

Don’t really need to worry about anything else, besides driving it somewhere safe. i.e. not the driveway or around the neighborhood. Car bumpers are at the perfect height to do major damage.

[Oliver Kell]

PM sent last night

[Oliver Kell]

Organization.
I went racing for the first time in years this spring.
It was a MESS. No one could tell me when the track was going to open, drivers’ meeting etc.
…and they wondered why turn out is brutal.

Posting a schedule that is realistic and sticking to it shows a lot. Make sure you have adequate time between sessions and arr organized!

pre registration makes life a lot easier and make sure your credit/debit processing machine works!

Also doesn’t hurt to listen to racers if and when issues present themselves and provide good value.

[Oliver Kell]

Hey Fred,
What did you end up finding out for shipping?

[Oliver Kell]

Hey Reggie,
You’ve asked a couple loaded questions!

Let’s start with vintage vs. Modern. First of all, this depends on what your definition of vintage is. I’ve been in and out of the sport for about 15 years now and on the chassis itself therw hasn’t necessarily been much change. I currently have a CRG Road Rebel. The fram is VERY similar today as what it was fifteen years ago.

The biggest difference is the accessories, for lack of a better term. Fifteen years ago almost everyone was running the same type of brake system, bodywork and 40mm axels.

2001ish started the movement to 50mm axels. New regulations out of Europe meant new crash tested body work and most of the manufacturers went their own way with braking systems.

next thing was going from 17mm to 25mm spindles and wider front ends. In the last five years or so there has been a movement to softer chassis, and a lot more 30mm frame rails… as opposed to 32mm.

In all honesty those are the major changes in karts in the last little while. I’d recommend getting something relatively modern. As for chassis, It honestly doesn’t really matter, it is more about support. If you’re just going to be driving and practicing as opposed to racing I’d buy something that is supported by a kart shop that is convenient to you and seems to have reasonable prices. If you’re going to race, look at who is out on race weekends. Remember that you will spend A LOT more racing than just practicing.

TonyKart has tended to produce a chassis that goes soft in recent years, but if you’re not racing that last .15 doesn’t really matter. All the karts are designed to work properly when being driven to the limit, so don’t assume that one is necessarily will be better for a noob, or easier to drive.

I can’t really comment on engines, because I don’t know if you’re looking for track time or to go racing. If its seat time you want, anything can be run rich and relatively cheaply. I’ve run an ica for the last while, which is probably the most expensive thing to race ever, but I run it rich and only rev it to 17k instead of over 20.
if youre racing look at what people have, and what classes are popular.
Talk to local racers!

I hope this helps you in the right direction and will suggest you check out the general discussion forms for similar topics, and it tends to br visited more.
The other thing I will add is that personally I’ll only ever have a kart with self adjusting brakes. Shimming brakes is the biggest pia job imho

[Oliver Kell]

[quote quote=27494]I don’t have a need for the seat jig but I hope and pray that all goes well for your son. No one one should have to go thru that. [/quote]

I’d like to second that.
God bless.

[Oliver Kell]

Any feedback on alfano or others that interface with the data acq?

[Oliver Kell]

Chris,
have a look at the homologation tag on the kart.
it should be on the rear bar, behind the seat, in front of the axle.
It will have a model and an expiry for the homologation.
The kart may be upto 6 years older than that. Anything from ’03 to ’05 (which would be my best guess) is going to be essentially the same.

Hipe this helps
Oliver

[Oliver Kell]

[quote quote=23700]Ven 05 end thread.

Gif
[/quote]
I’ll second (or third) the Ven05, and I’ve driven just about everything.
Pre 2002 generic
2000 up crg (touchy, but awesome)
DC-One (Parolin self adjusting, very nice)
Brembo (on a gp)
Arrow
Birel banana. They’re very good too
but I’d have to say the Ven05.
nice big caliper, well ventilated floating disc. Ive never heard of brake fade on the system.

[Oliver Kell]

[quote quote=24946]Bare engine is 37 lbs and the complete package is 64[/quote]

I was talking about a while package with chassis and everything.
I am trying to figure out what my target weight is for this season.

Yeah, I know fields are sparse, but I’m looking at doing the Can-Am Rotax Challenge. Four weekends are probably all I can get off work, and the budget is semi-reasonable. I also turn 32 next year and qualify for masters, the Grand Finals are the one one thing I still need to check off my list!

[Oliver Kell]

[quote quote=22279]Jumped in the deep end with a Formula A. Not the way I’d recommend as there’s not many driving experiences that compare.[/quote]
First kart I drove, same thing. FA. I still remember being out with friends for dinner 2-3 hours later. I was literally bouncing around the booth from the adrenaline still pumping through my system.

My first kart was a TK Extreme with a PCR engine the same generation as a TT75. I HATED the pos Mikuni carb on that thing!

[Oliver Kell]

[quote quote=24799]Oliver, you are correct about Jordon.

Jimmy explained it well above.
[/quote]

For some reason I didn’t see his post. My understanding is that TK’s were pretty stiff at that time, so it being a few years old might have worked in his favour. Having said that, his kart was significantly older than the TK I had at the time, which also was ancient.

[Oliver Kell]

Daniel, I’m wondering where you’re getting this 165 number?
I posted almost the same question in general discussion and the number I was given was 200lbs to be a good start.
My chassis is crg 32/32 with 25mm spindles and I’ll end up running a plastic rear bumper, but I can’t see it adding up to 35lbs, even if you’re using old style bodywork.

[Oliver Kell]

I already have the chassis, and have had it for quite a while.

 

…so if I’m doing the math correctly, I would need to get down to about 170lbs to be competitive. I really don’t want to run weight, but I also don’t want my fat backside to hold me back!

[Oliver Kell]

There are a couple things that i think you guys are overlooking.

1. CIK engines, chassis, and tires are homolagated for six years at a time, on a three year cycle.

2. Many chassis have remained essentially the same.  For example I have a Road Rebel. My understanding is that the chassis is virtually identical to a RR fifteen years ago. The accessories have changed, for the better, but the chromolly frame is what it was then.

3. Once again, going back a while, didn’t Jordan Musser (please excuse me if I got his name wrong) come out of nowhere and win Rotax in about 2002 with a TonyKart that was mid ’90s and had been sitting for years?

 

There may be some exceptions. I know a TK dealer brought in karts used for one round of the world championships at sra, and there was suggestions it may have been a softer steel (ie not chromolly).

Things may also be different if you’re looking at a 30 or 28mm chassis.

 

Hope this helps

Oliver

[Oliver Kell]

Please check your PMs.

Thanks

Oliver

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