[Nick Weil]

Ed,

Do you have the new style or old style clutch and gear assembly?

[Nick Weil]

Hey Ray!  Nice to hear from you. Not out of business… But we’ve had a run in with some sort of web issues.  You can reach us at the business number if you need something specific.  Not sure if I should post it here, but it usually comes up in web searches.

Thanks!

[Nick Weil]

Jack,

You are correct.  The Rotax is a total-loss ignition system.  If the voltage at any point gets much below 11.5v you will get insufficient power through the coil and intermittent spark as a result.  It should feel as if the motor is effectively, sputtering and shutting off, because that’s exactly what is occurring.  A fully-charged battery in most cases has the ability to run all day.  HOWEVER, if you are running the older Lead-Acid Sealed battery, if you take it below about 80% charge at any point you really end up damaging the cells long-term ability to ‘recharge’.  The Li-Ion battery is much more tolerant of this due to it’s internal makeup, but I still don’t recommend it.  The best bet is to have your battery on charge ANY time you aren’t on track, including sitting in the trailer, or at home in your shop or garage.

[Nick Weil]

[quote quote=28347]Go to any big dirt kart race and everyone will have leather jackets and jeans.<br>
http://www.adleathers.com/karting.html is the gold standard.[/quote]

Did he just use the words “Dirt Kart Race” AND “Gold Standard” in the same paragraph?

I’ve been to quite a few dirt events, and the words “Gold Standard” never, ever crossed my mind. But, I have yet to attend a dirt kart race where the hired security staff weren’t required. LOL!

As to the leathers, I raced some motorcycle stuff back in the early 90’s and HAD to wear leathers. When I went to karting, I was a bit skeptical and wore my leathers for about 3 races in Florida before I said, “screw that!” and bought what at the time was a nice MIR suit. If you spend the right money on a real karting suit, you do get some good abrasion resistance, and you won’t sweat nearly as much as a leather suit.

[Nick Weil]

Registration deadline is nearing… Hope to see you all there!

[Nick Weil]

Voodoo would be a very good assessment…  The ‘Clicks’ theory only works if all motors involved in the comparison have the exact same:

1. Compression
2. Exhaust back pressure (i.e. matting AND pipe condition)
3. Spark plug
4. Jetting
5. PV spring tension
6. PV Bellows tension
7. PV friction coefficient inside the valve slot

I often enjoy listening to competitors ‘voodoo’ speech regarding power valves.  And watching the other persons reactions to it.

[Nick Weil]

Castor will do you no favors in a Rotax. It can really muck up the power-valve, and it will certainly throw jetting off. Both of which are critical for having a ‘fun’ time in a Rotax kart. Motul or XPS are your best choices.

[Nick Weil]

1. Does the valve snap open when the pressure overcomes the spring rate? Or is it a gradual opening over a few 100/1000 rpms?

A ‘snap’ probably isn’t a proper term or analogy here.  The best example or advice I can give you is to simply run the motor with the PV cover off.  Press the valve in (duplicating spring tension) and then ‘release’ it indicating an overcoming of said spring tension.  This will give you an idea of how quickly it is overcome.  In my opinion, when my engine is running right, it’s almost instantaneous and ‘feels’ good as well as ‘sounds’ different.

2. Does the Rotax ignition programing actually change the timing at <7500 rpm to allow the firing of the cylinder to occur as the piston draws even with the closed exhuast valve (on the down stroke)?

During the Florida Winter Tour, I’ve been able to see and use the Coil Tester and I can say that at 7500 RPM’s your coil begins an immediate and progressive advancing of the timing.  Even when bench-testing, you can notice an ‘audible’ note change of the ignition timing.

[Nick Weil]

Too bad we don’t live closer to each other, I could show you…  Your great starts are a testament to your jetting and throttle control.  If you don’t want to take credit for it, then don’t.  At our club here in the SouthEast, I’ve seen guys with old clutches smoke everyone and I’ve seen guys with new clutches smoke everyone.  I’ve only been road-racing them for about 12 years, so I could be wrong.

On another note…  The original poster never once mentioned Road Racing that I can see.  You fellas must know him personally?

[Nick Weil]

It seems your exhaust question has “failed” to make the grade.  Where do you come up with this stuff Bob?

[Nick Weil]

Not sure where Jeff is getting his information from, but the old style clutch is/was governed by the same rule as the new style clutch.  It has to engage before 3000 RPM.  There is no ‘performance’ gain with the new style clutch, just better reliability.  Jetting and throttle modulation are the keys to getting a good ‘standing start’.

[Nick Weil]

Martin,

It’s totally dependent on all those variables that you haven’t named.  I can tell you that in 10 years of running DD-2 I have used everything from 170 to 210.

Give me some variables and I can give you some more specific advice.

[Nick Weil]

The plug was ‘nice and gray’?  Not sure I ever want to see a ‘gray’ plug when I come in.  I prefer a very light (REALLY LIGHT) brown to tell me there’s plenty of lubrication going on.

Where physically are you racing?  What temperature was it outside?  What was the barometer?

As you can see from the piston, the ring actually snagged the port and broke off part of the dome, but apparently not before enough heat was generated to burn that hole in the backside.

Looks to me like there’s multiple scars on the piston as well, as if it got too lean before, but didn’t get so lean that it burned up.

Gray plugs…not good.  That’s usually ‘gray’ aluminum coating the electrode.

[Nick Weil]

A pretty broad question really.  But the answer in most cases will be dictated to you by the rules of your local/regional race series.  You kind of have to run what the tech officials tell you that you must run.

As far as preference goes, most clubs or organizations (WKA, SKUSA, FWT), as well as Series (RMC, Rok Cup) will specify specific plugs that are LEGAL for use.  They usually leave the temperature range up to the competitor.

Iridium plugs require less ‘voltage’ because the Iridium conducts better.  It’s much harder than the electrode on standard plugs and as such tends to wear longer/better.  The problem with Iridium plugs and karting is that if your jetting is not correct, due to the much smaller electrode, the plug can foul much easier.  Additionally, Iridium plugs are typically MUCH more expensive than regular plugs.

[Nick Weil]

Bob,

When are you getting back into a kart!?

[Nick Weil]

I’ve suffered two different ‘bruised rib’ injuries in my 15+ years of karting.  Both times it was simply from too much grip and repeated bruising.  Also, of importance to mention BOTH times, my ribs were actually ‘cracked’ and when I originally went in for a check-up and x-rays, the films came back as negative for a fracture.  The reason being, they were stress fractures that weren’t detectable.  But several weeks later, during a follow-up x-ray you could visibly see the ‘fusing’ or healing that had taken place.

My first advice is to stay out of the kart for at least 4 weeks.  That might be a hard pill to swallow, but if you’ve only bruised them so far, you don’t want to fracture them completely.  Here’s a few things to consider:

1. Doctors and modern medicine offer you NO TREATMENT for broken ribs other than painkillers.
2. When you really do have broken ribs, it only hurts when you breathe, cough, or sneeze.  In fact, it hurts so bad when you sneeze, you can just start your tears prior to the actual sneeze.  Also it hurts when you recline at the wrong angle, bend over at the wrong angle, or lift anything you normally would.
3. Everytime you get back in the kart, you just set your healing clock back another 4-8 weeks depending on your healing capacity.

The Ribtech Seat is a great option as is the Ribtech Ribvest.  I have yet to see a customer reinjure their ribs after switching over to a high quality vest and seat combo (except for a few crashes).

[Nick Weil]

Try repacking the exhaust matting in the pipe stinger.  Missing matting makes the note much shriller.

 

An apples to apples comparison can then be done.

[Nick Weil]

Where are you racing…  That’s probably the most important question to be answered.  Participation and class count is critical to making your decision.

[Nick Weil]

Checking in as commanded Mr. Woodrow!

[Nick Weil]

I probably have more experience with them than just about anyone and I don’t think they made an RM-1 in 2008.  Last time I saw one ‘made’ was 2005.  Where are you going to race?  RM-1’s are typically VERY slow in the DD-2 class because they are so stiff and the 4th brake is very hard to deal with as a tuner.

[Nick Weil]

1) Who actually here promotes/promoted a RR event?? Not talking about helping at the event. Doing it all.
Pretty sure I have done almost everything for the Southern Kart Club…
2) Anyone know how rather it’s a organization, club, etc. gets insurance ??
Ours is handled through WKA as part of our Regional Series agreement.
3) How does the insurance company determine how they cover your event??
Same answer as #2…
4) How many RR events do you attend a year??
Used to be 10-12, now lucky if do 4-6.
5) What area of the country??
The Southeast.
6) Who is/has been in the politics as a board member (IKF, KART, WKA, CES)??
I’ve been very active as a WKA member on the Board of the SKC, but never been in an elected WKA position.

I am certain that most racers aren’t aware of what it takes. I am also certain that most racers don’t want to hear what it takes, they just want to race. Therein lies the problem. Lack of support and participation above and beyond what your monetary budget allows.

[Author]

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