[Leo Ahearn]

A bit of perspective if I may –

125 shifter w sticky tires BTW.  I ran a Ribtect Large Tall.  I’m 5’11 and 170 lbs.  With a rib vest.  It hurt my ribs.  Granted I was nursing rib pain from a TaG with no rib vest (we all have to go drive around until we can’t stand it the first time we get in a real kart is appears), but this seat hurt me.  I worked with a long time karter to mod the seat.  We used a spreader jack and a heat gun and opened it up some, flaring the sides out more.  It became comfortable and my ribs healed.

You need about a finger’s width of play on the sides, with our without the rib vest.  Too tight and it will hurt you.

I let that seat get away and ran the stock CRG seat in a new shifter chassis.  After a long few days (10 test n tune sessions and a race day), I almost could not move.  Added some pads to the seat over the bolts, change seat position so I was not bouncing forward and the shallow sides hitting me.  Still chased rib injury and pain.

Quit driving the shifter.  206 kart w rib protector, stock Arrow seat (EMAF?), life is good and ribs heal up.  That is, until I get in a CRG seat in a shifter.  Once the tires warm up I can feel my ribs folding over the top of the seat and the injury/pain comes right back.

I need a taller deeper seat that fits me if I am to drive a TaG or shifter.  It may not be a chicom flexy flier like the stock CRG seat, but it is either get a different seat or don’t drive at all, regardless of what it does to the tuning of the chassis.

When researching this before, I found some posts about a top S4 driver that went Ribtect in a CRG chassis and he said he had no issues tuning around the seat.

Brand alone is not the resolution – it has to fit right, and you need to pad over the bolt heads, use flatter bolt heads, come up w your own flat bolt heads, etc. to go along with it.  The Ribtect flat heads are cool but expensive and only have a few threads in them.  They tend to fail in my experience.

Good luck!

[Leo Ahearn]

Falcone Racing has several low hour Arrow chassis on hand.  I’m on my second from him this year and the first one is in service with another karter.

scottfalcone@comcast.net

 

http://www.thecoloradokarter.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6461&sid=fdc13f14b52720519596cf5eff72c04d

[Leo Ahearn]

stiffer means the kart will lift MORE not less, assuming the lift you are referring to has to do with the amount of caster.

Stiffer axle, stiffer seat, and a bar in the front = inside rear wheel lifting sooner and higher for the same amount of steering wheel input.  Stiffer seat = less of that movement absorbed by the chassis.

[Leo Ahearn]

Cole – sorry for the late response – I was away from my personal computer for a few days and did not have my login info for this site with me.

I have made several posts over on the colorado karter portal re: running an LO206 at Centennial.

I will be there this Saturday when the gates open.  Not sure who else will be.

Gearing – Jim and I are both running 219 chains and gears, so if you are running a 35 you’ll need to translate.  For up hill, a ratio of about 3.72 seems to be perfect.  For down hill I was hitting the rev limiter prior to mid-straight, but this could change when I add weight.  I plan to test a 3.63 gear for downhill at full weight and see what it does to lap times.

Clutch – I would have the springs and knowhow to get your at rest RPMs to be 3600-3800 (will be 3400 full engagement when on the track rolling) but it would be interesting to test your slippier setup as well.

I have an extra 35 chain if you need it and some extra 35 gears.  Also, Action Karting has 35 and 219 sprockets on hand that you can pick up on your way down if need be, or I can swing over and grab a sprocket or two for you.  You might end up with slightly used but fully functional gears from them depending on the tooth count, but I would not hesitate to put a good used sprocket on.

my email is ljahearn       at        me      dot com – shoot me a message here or at that email if you want to trade phone numbers.  Hope to see you Saturday!!! Leo.

[Leo Ahearn]

This is actually really simple.

As a responsible seller, you are responsible for the buyer having in their hands what you advertised and they paid for.  I always include shipping and insurance in my sales.  Insurance can be paid for or you can be self insured, but in either case the claim with the carrier is between the shipper and the carrier, not the buyer.

Another way of dealing is where the buyer has the shipper ship the item using the buyer’s account number with the carrier – aka FOB – in this case, once the item is in the carrier’s hands it is the buyer’s responsibility that it arrive safely or deal with the carrier himself.

This avoids the situation you are in entirely, before it happens, because what you describe here happens all too often.

If I have a dispute, the first thing I do is refund the buyer’s money and have the item and packaging picked up by the carrier.

Buyer beware if you did not work this out ahead of time.

[Leo Ahearn]

Are you talking IMI the sprint course or IMI the oval?

The sprint course is anything but tight.

[Leo Ahearn]

Sam- I PMed you here – am local to your area – happy to give you a crash course on karts, getting started in karting, and the local scene.  Maybe some seat time in a real kart too ;)

 

Leo.

[Leo Ahearn]

The 01 port timing allows it to rev a bit higher than the 99.  All things being equal, the 01 produces a tad more PEAK HP.  With higher RPM, within a given period of time it is pumping and burning more air and fuel, therefore creating more power.

Keep in mind there is no rev limiter per se on this motor – its peak RPM is determined by port timing.

[Leo Ahearn]

$150 for my shifter from Denver to Watertown NY.  Fastenal.

Of course took 10 man hours to crate it ;)

Factory crates will make this much easier.

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