[Bob Wimmer]

I agree with Jeff’s recommendation  to start with a 73. Additionally, you need to consider your height. I’m 6-2 and always seem to need one more tooth than shorter drivers or I risk loosing the draft. Also be very gentle on the clutch in practice. With such a tall gear, you can wear one out in 2 or 3 aggressive starts. Save those for the race.

[Bob Wimmer]

4000 to 6000 is normal for clutch engagement. To be safe, I would still pull the drum and take a look at the pad material. If you have over 1/16 inch, your ok for a few more sprint starts.

It is normal for your engine not want to idle when the carb is at its race settings. You can lean out the low speed needle to less than a turn and it will idle, but you have to richen it back up for the race. I typically don’t start mine until I can go on the track to avoid idling.

 

Bob Wimmer

WKA Stock Leopard

[Bob Wimmer]

I bet that is the build date of the parts. 30th week of 2009 and 2010.

[Bob Wimmer]

Terry

Try http://www.remoracing.com.au/index.php/tech-info/iame-x30

to download the x30 manuals. Their are a good place  to start.

Bob

[Bob Wimmer]

Put a fresh engine on the kart and spun it over with the plug out. It sparked much faster and more consistent than the other engine. Put the plug in and the new engine ran fine.

Pulled the the crank trigger / rotor off the problem engine and the key was fine. The magnets are also strong. All that’s left is the stator. Will borrow a known good one and test on the bench before replacing.

 

 

[Bob Wimmer]

See the “flex” thread in the tag forum for a discussion on leopard clutches.

Good luck

Bob

[Bob Wimmer]

Sean

I’ve been road racing an 07 leopard for the last couple of seasons and typically run about 16 inches from the header to the first weld on the expansion chamber. I’ve not noticed much additional pull going longer.

I would suggest trying a taller gear to drop some rpm though.  Leopards make peak hp between 12.5 and 13k rpm. Spinning them much higher will actually lowers your straightaway speed.  On big tracks, I typically gear for about 13k max rpm running alone.  This can equate to about 13.5 or so in the draft. You will be amazed at how this can lower your lap times if you keep your cornering speed up.

Check out my videos at l8apex63 on YouTube. Some include engine rpm.

Good luck

Bob Wimmer

[Bob Wimmer]

I have had good luck with ups batteries when the Leopard charging system is maintaining 13+V.  If it drops below 12.5v  battery life suffers. Double check charging voltage before replacing. <span style=”color: #333333;”><span style=”background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);”>
</span></span>

Good luck

Bob

 

 

[Bob Wimmer]

Check out hotels listed on the Roebling Road website. The prices are very competitive.

[Bob Wimmer]

I’ve been running Leopards for five years and have seen everything in the ignition system fail except the stator. I guess it was about time. Now I need to track down a used one.

Thanks for the help.

[Bob Wimmer]

Sean

I have tried both road race and sprint clutches. If I’m running a 16/80+ gear I stick with a sprit clutch. For a 16/79-  gear I’ll run a road race clutch. Both can take about 4 hard starts before the friction material is gone. This is with the daily maintenance routine  Clark mentioned and babying the clutch in practice and on the grid. Also if you go off or spin and floor it to get back up to speed you will distoroy the clutch.

I also found that a worn drum can cause premature clutch failure. If the shoes break on the clutch before the friction material is gone try replacing the drum with the clutch. It will likely solve any problems.

Bottom line, I’ spend as much on the clutch, chain and gears during a season as  the engine.

With the preventative maintenance, you should be fine.

Good luck

Bob

[Bob Wimmer]

Mine started giving me problems after a complete rebuild (the flywheel side bearing failed).  First it wouldn’t start with the off-board starter, but started fine with the on-board.  After a few races it wouldn’t start with either.  Tried everything and nothing solved the problem until I replaced the flywheel.

 

Hope this helps.

[Bob Wimmer]

I had the same problem with my pre 08 Leopard.  I tried swapping every single ignition component with no success until I replaced the flywheel/rotor.  Turns out the magnets were noticeably weaker than on a new one.  I guess the weak magnets could not create enough of a field to charge the coil.  Good luck.

 

Bob

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