[Michael Rutter]

Try switching front bars to give the front a little more bite. Run maybe half a PSI higher in the front. If you add grip to the front it will take some away from the rear.  I’m not exactly sure about the seat  dimensions.

[Michael Rutter]

Can you send images of the kart to mrmikey847@aol.com please?

[Michael Rutter]

Check out a K1 Carbon Fiber rib vest.  In my opinion its the best, looks pretty good and works.  Relatively slim and if you’re going to do any really tough driving in a TaG or anything I highly recommend  a rib vest.  It really isn’t about accident protection but for comfort after driving (No sore ribs or bruised ribs).  They do offer some protection but in a crash the major thing is really the neck brace.

[Michael Rutter]

What year Rotax? Would you be willing to split the motor from the kart?

 

[Michael Rutter]

What year is the chassis?

[Michael Rutter]

Is this carb still available?

 

[Michael Rutter]

Are these motors still for sale?

[Michael Rutter]

Are these My09 motors?

 

[Michael Rutter]

Will there be TaG’s at the COTA race?

[Michael Rutter]

The front brakes requires a different spindle that has Tabs for the caliper along with new front hubs to mount the brake rotor to, also you need a second master cylinder. I haven’t done it myself but I’ve heard it could be anywhere areound $800-$1000+

[Michael Rutter]

Would you take trade for another kart? I could trade a 2004 BRM with an LO206 with less then 7 hrs, and a Birel with two PRD’s?  The birel is also a 2004 RY-30, I loved it but I’d be willing to trade it.  Was only three tenths off of the Norway (CHMS) lap record.

[Michael Rutter]

Jim Russel is correct, I purchased two leopards and saw them for the first time tonight, The clutches are marked “X30” and a few other bits I could find the X30 markings.  I hope that my leopard won’t become a “$3000 boat anchor” but ya never know these days.

[Michael Rutter]

From what I have heard the X30 gets blown away by most leopards,
The difference is really on the blueprinting, the leopard’s rules are much more “open” than the X30.

[Michael Rutter]

They key way to tell is by the carb angle, if it is a MY09 it should be on an angle with the blue pointing towards the side-pod, also the crank will be a rectangular shaped end not a starter nut or nut.  The motor pictured above is a Pre-09 which aren’t as competitive so I hear.

[Michael Rutter]

would you take on credit on trade for something like an LO206 or PRD?

[Michael Rutter]

Send me an email with the pictures to mrmikey847@aol.com thanks is it $899 with thencurrent price drop?

[Michael Rutter]

It really is up to you, check out my YouTube videos for a helmet mounted and radiator mounted.
Search : Worldracer55 on YouTube and you should see a few videos.
My advice is to go to GoPro’s online store and pay the $22 for the bag of mounts. It’s totally worth it. I’ve never had a GoPro fall off in my entire career but I’ve heard of it happening. To be cautious, just tighten down the mount and check for any visible cracks. The other option is to buy the roll bar mount and drill two holes in your driver panel/fairing and bolt it on. A few people I know use that and They said they never worry about the adhesive com in apart. Just my bit

[Michael Rutter]

<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>James McMahon wrote:</div>

New kit (you assemble and prepare) $2800 for the 99kit, add another $400ish of you want ’01.<br>
Brand spanking new and assembled $3800-$5500 (and situations vary

How complicated is it to assemble? Do you think a fairly mechanically oriented 14 year old could assemble a kit?

<hr>
<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>Be a part of something awesome for kart racing: https://www.facebook.com/kartpulse</div>

[Michael Rutter]

Also about engines it depends on the class, and your level of racing.  At nationals/super nationals it is every weekend of racing.  Usually these rebuilds are relatively cheap $400-800 for a full rebuild.  at club we run our club motor until the others start kicking us usually around 6 hours.  I’d also like to remind you we usually run fourty five minutes for two racedays.

Engine blueprinting is a necessary.  There are hundreds if not thousands of motor builders across the nation.  Which one?  Again it depends on the motor, yamahas are most likely Woltjer or Comet.  Leopard or TAG is CKT and Comet.  Shifter,  Swedetech, CKT, there is a number of different builders across the nation.

[Michael Rutter]

Honestly I got into the sport believing I could be cheap and affordable but it honestly depends on

1. What class do you plan on running? (Shifter, TaG, Yamaha, Briggs and Stratton, etc.)
2. What are your long term goals?
3. What level of racing do you plan on running? just club or nationals/regional events?
4. Tires are king, how fast do you want to go?

• tires really depend on what class, shifters run super soft compound tires for maximum grip.  most TAG classes run he Bridgestone YLC or MG Whites these are intermediate compound tires.

On the subject of new vs used, it really is about the level of racing, club or local racing usually you can be competitive with used chassis.  If you buy used, for the love of god buy a one or two year old kart and inspect it bring a kart shop owner a long with you.  New chassis the best on the market is probably the OTK signature karts (Tony karts, FA, Kosmic) The only problem with karts like these is the damage an inexperienced driver can do, smacking into a barrier or other kart could take a large portion of your Budget out of your pocket.

[Michael Rutter]

Try some MG ‘IR’ tires.
http://www.magnaracing.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=567

They’re the ‘MG Blues’ as some would call them.  They do fairly well with four-strokes because they’re really hard compound and last long which is good for your budget.  We ran our LO206 on them all season and they could probably go next season too!  They’re the equivalent of the Bridgestone YDS tires and are spec tires here at Norway (CHMS) for our LO206 class.  FAIR WARNING THEY ARE REALLY HARD TIRES AND YOU’RE NOT GOING TO SET LAP RECORD TIMES!

Run them at or around 18 PSI and you should be good to go.

If you don’t feel like using the MG blues then go for the spec tire you run at your local track/series.

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