[Jim Howe]

Typically, a race-ready full-size kart with a Yamaha but no driver weighs around 140-150 pounds. Without an engine, you’re probably in the 110-120 pound range. Weights will vary depending on the type of kart, type of components (for example, aluminum versus carbon fiber, etc.), and other characteristics.

[Jim Howe]

This is a great site for learning about karting but your best bet is definitely to check things out in person. Find one or more local tracks and just go hang out to watch. Do the same with dealers or kart providers in your area because you’ll need support, both in the way of advice and parts. Ask lots of questions and use your best judgement. Good luck and you will have a blast!!

[Jim Howe]

Good luck Freddy!

[Jim Howe]

Freddy and Mike, it does sound like the kart is binding up. The give-away to me is the rain really makes things slick, which frees up the chassis. The other give-away is you’re running a lower HP engine (206 vs. the two-stroke).

You definitely have to free the kart up to make it roll easily. If you have a 50mm rear axle, change it to a 40mm. Go with short hubs front and rear. If you’re running any seat struts, take them off. If you’re allowed, run a harder compound tire.

Depending on your kart type (Euro versus American), widen/narrow front and rear tracks to take out grip. Change your torsion bars (if you’re running any) to whatever compound gives you the least grip/chassis flex or take out completely. Like Steve said above, don’t run the floorpan loose (loose allows the chassis to flex).

Again, the issue is the kart is getting too much grip and the lower HP engine is having trouble pulling it. You’re gonna have to “unstick” it!

Good luck!!

[Jim Howe]

To echo what Walt said above, there is absolutely nothing wrong with these so-called economy chassis. They’re fast. You can win in them. They’re good karts.

It all depends on what you want to do. They might not be the ticket if you’re gonna do some big national/international race, but they are perfect for club racing where you’re racing for fun, experience, and laps. All without spending a lot of money.

Economy chassis can also be upgraded over time. You can pick up those fancy components and add them as your competition…and pocket book…dictates.

Again, it all comes down to what you want and need to go racing.

[Jim Howe]

It has been my experience that seat struts do transfer weight to their respective corner. I have not heard of them preventing weight transfer. And when a seat strut has broke, my drivers notice the lack of transfer.

Same story for the weight up high. It changes the center of gravity and tends to help the kart “lean” more in the turns (transfer weight), which is especially helpful when your driver is small. Now, if your driver is more normal sized or taller, I definitely would not put the weight high on the seat; rather, I’d put it as low as possible.

[Jim Howe]

The owner closed it down after the 2013 season although it had started downhill around 2010 or so due. It was a good series but management slowly lost interest and concentrated on other karting aspects (they had their own separate karting business).

[Jim Howe]

Is the $2,000 price with Rotax or just for the chassis? And if it is for the package, how much for just the chassis?

Thanks!

jim

[Jim Howe]

Hey Freddy! You still have this motor? And tell me what clutches you have. Looking to get a friend’s teenage daughter into the sport. PM me or send email (jimanddebbiehowe@gmail.com).

[Jim Howe]

PM sent.

[Jim Howe]

I totally agree about the need to discipline “rough” drivers but wander where are the race officials in all this. If someone is driving rough, park them!

Too many officials are too nice and don’t want to anger their friends. This is especially true at the club level. Yet, even at the national level, you have officials that won’t make the damn call.

Couple that with parents and other team people that tell their kids to do whatever it takes to get up front and you have no race craft.

I hope the bumpers work. Anything that keeps drivers from running over other drivers — whether intentional, stupidity, or just a lack of racecraft — will help eliminate rough driving.

[Jim Howe]

Thanks Brian!!

[Jim Howe]

I pay anywhere from $300 – $600, depending on what all needs to be done. Dyno time is extra, of course, as is any machining if needed on a non-blueprinted engine. And I think that’s pretty much standard for all the engine builders in my area, big and small. So, I consider this pretty darn reasonable myself.

[Jim Howe]

Do you still have these wheels Tracey?

jim

[Jim Howe]

Did you sell all of the wheels? Looking for at least two Birel magnesium 210 mm wheels.

jim

[Jim Howe]

Do you still have the two Douglas mag int’l (Euro) wheels?

 

jim

[Jim Howe]

I think Sanford hit the nail on the head. Stringing a kart first to make sure everything is square, then using lasers to set the frontend is the way to go.

Typically, I try to string a kart early in the season then use the lasers to keep the frontend in place. If we have a major crash, do what you gotta do at the track to race/finish. Then, re-string it before the next race.

I’ve talked to others about stringing a kart and they just look at me. Especially the younger ones!

[Jim Howe]

I have mine with the floorpan on top of the tabs. That way if any of the bolts come loose from vibration, the driver isn’t gonna fall through.

[Jim Howe]

I don’t know of anything within an hour’s drive of Louisville but there are individual (dirt) tracks certainly within that radius in both Indiana and Kentucky.

If you want to stick to pavement, however, you could try the SIRA club which gets as far south as Columbus (IN), which is about 75 minutes from Louisville or go south to the AMPS club based in Nashville (TN).

Are you wanting in Omar or for your kids? PM me and I can give you contacts for information….

[Jim Howe]

Any kind of lubricant should work fine, spray or gel, provided it doesn’t have grit or anything else in it that could mess up your bead seal.

Me personally, I use Vaseline as it makes the tire and wheel very slick so the tire slides onto the wheel easier. And never have had a problem with the bead not sealing.

[Jim Howe]

Rim type depends on a lot of different things as Oliver touched on above. Bob, definitely go check out the Comet Kart site as I do recall Mark Dismore posting a very informative piece on the differences between magnesium and aluminum.

Just a couple additional points from my point of view: Since magnesium does not conduct heat as quickly or as easily as aluminum, it generally allows the kart to stay freer for a bit longer. All karts tighten up during a run, regardless of what you do. The key is to keep the kart as free as possible for as long as possible. Particularly on really grippy surfaces, magnesium wheels are a little better at holding off the heat transfer/build-up than aluminum wheels. I also think this is more important with the 7.1 tires than the 6.0 tires. But regardless, anything that will help to keep the tires cooler, will help the kart’s handling.

By the same token, we run aluminum wheels with our rain setup. There, we want the heat to build up to help enhance what little grip we can get.

As always, there are way too many variables to just say you want magnesium wheels in X situation and aluminum wheels in Y situation. Track surface plays a part, kart brand, weather, set-up preferences, etc., all come into play. And I would also say in some cases, the differences are so minute that some drivers may not be able to tell the difference or even care.

Good luck!!

[Jim Howe]

A variety of dealers and shops offer frame straightening, so I’d ask around and see what’s close to you in Nashville. You might also check with the local club to see if they can recommend someone.

As for a recommendation (but it will be a drive for you), I use Second II None Racing in Indianapolis. Bill Hamble has a massive flat-plate and is extremely methodical in his work. He’ll take a full week to straighten it because he twists it, lets the metal relax, then repeats this process several times to ensure the frame is as close to perfect as possible.

I take my stuff there every year before the season starts…

[Jim Howe]

There are a couple of things to take into account when changing from 6.00 to 7.10s.

First, the kart will tighten up a little more and a little faster due to the wider rubber. I found that you almost certainly want to go as wide as possible in the back (just under the 55″ maximum allowed) to offset this. Maybe it was just my karts, but we typically were around 54″ with the 6.00s.

Second, the 7.10s typically have a greater circumference than the 6.00, which does affect gear. It’s not a dramatic change — maybe one or two teeth — but a change nonetheless.

I tend to agree with TJ in that there is no difference in driving style.

So, all in all, nothing major that one or two practice sessions at the start of the year won’t discover.

[Jim Howe]

Mine uses the same battery like you’d find in a lawn mower. It is a standard size.

[Jim Howe]

Have you thought about street racing Rob? The Southern Indiana Racing Association runs 10-15 different events every year in Indiana and Kentucky with a wide variety of classes.

 

I run there with my team and enjoy the racing, atmosphere, and people. We have a lot of fun and some great racing. Check out the SIRA website or Facebook page. Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions!!

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