Forum Replies Created
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AuthorPosts
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January 22, 2015 at 4:11 pm #40908Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Dillon
BT280522106 (WAS part number M01060000) Bleeder “banjo” bolt. OEM GASGAS with Hydraulic Clutch 1992~2007 all models including Enduro, and Pro. Standard European 10 X 1.0 mm thread size. Fits most brands of Trial motorcycles on clutch and some brake applications.http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x26/Viperracinguk/GasGasClutch_zpsd8db8bf8.jpg
Available from here. Scroll down the page and it’s just over half way down:
http://www.ajpamerica.com/rebuild-kits-and-parts.htmlBest Regards
Ian :-)
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January 4, 2015 at 4:21 pm #39867Ian HarrisonParticipant
Thanks for the results link, Johnny.
I’ll hopefully get over one year soon.
Best to you and Martha, Bobby. Have a great 2015.
Cheers
Ian :-)
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January 2, 2015 at 5:49 pm #39796Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hey Bobby,
I know you would have had a good time at Daytona, but I believe that you “done good” as well?
Anyone got a link to results?Cheers,
Ian :-)
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January 2, 2015 at 5:46 pm #39795Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Lucas,
If you are talking a Superkart chassis we need to know what make and model?
If a sprint chassis I would suggest that the Shark Shifter Honda CR250 Mount should fit the bill for the Kwak. There are options to choose for chassis tube dimensions and rear case width. You may end up having to make some small mods/spacers but I think it will be the nearest you can get. Here’s a link:
http://sharkshifter.com/zc/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=1187Cheers,
Ian :-)
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December 11, 2014 at 2:57 pm #38748Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi David
There have been a few variations mainly in the last couple of years but I’ll run through them.
1. 32mm tube F250 National Chassis (ICE). This has been produced in pretty much the same format from 2000 right up to present day. It’s a relatively stiff chassis that benefits from the use of soft tyres. From 2002 it had mountings that allowed 2 axle positions (Long and short wheelbase). Most run it in long wheelbase. Typically fitted with Honda CR250.
2. GasGas chassis. 30mm tube. This was basically the Maverick Div 1 (FE) chassis. The earlier versions kept the chassis mounted engine mount tags pointing away from each other. So to accommodate the shorter GasGas engine there was a long swan necked front engine mount which was not ideal. The wheelbase was 20mm longer than the 32mm F250 National chassis. A softer chassis which worked better with a slightly harder tyre. Later versions had the engine mount tags turned to point towards each other so using the same mounts that were used in the F250 National.
3. 30mm tube short wheelbase chassis. Basically exactly the same as the F250 National 32mm chassis, except for the tube size.
4. 30mm tube long wheelbase F250 National Chassis. Currently favourite with the quick guys.
Exactly the same as the current Div 1 chassis, but with engine mount tags to suit the shorter single cylinder engine.All the above chassis can be fitted with a plain floortray or diffuser.
The later rear bumpers have tags to bolt up the rear of a diffuser, whereas you have to use zip ties or tubing clamps with the earlier bumper.
In the period from 2000 to 2014 there have been various styles of nosecone, drivers bubble. sidepods and rear wing. Most competitors seem to prefer either the 2010 or the current style bodywork. The latest bodywork is better with a diffuser.
Any specifics or pictures, just ask away.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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July 6, 2014 at 12:34 am #29832Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Jeff
Looks like Sharkshifter sell the airbaox in the USA
http://sharkshifter.com/zc/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1190
Best Regards
Ian
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June 22, 2014 at 3:43 am #29270Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Jeff
Don’t know who stocks them in the USA but we stock them here in the UK and can ship to the US.
The current batch is red though. Being very small volume production now, we get the colour that they are moulding at the time of order, which can be red, blue, black or silver.

Best RegardsIan
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May 14, 2014 at 4:53 pm #27492Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Paul
All the ADE’s that I’ve seen had an oval V-shaped stub to carry the bottom ball joint not a tubular mini ‘A’ Frame.
Ian :-)
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May 12, 2014 at 4:54 pm #27335Ian HarrisonParticipant
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May 8, 2014 at 4:35 pm #27142Ian HarrisonParticipant
Copy and paste the link into your browser. Works just fine.
Ian ;-)
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May 7, 2014 at 5:43 pm #27042Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Larry
You don’t say if it’s a Maverick (3 axle bearings) or a Mirage chassis (2 axle bearings), but it will be stamped on a small rectangular plate that’s tack welded onto the chassis at the front. Usually stamped Anderson across the top with the number underneath. Sometimes (but not always), the year will also appear on the plate in smaller numbers.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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April 23, 2014 at 4:22 pm #26188Ian HarrisonParticipant
In fact happy to report that those Swedetech boys got it right (as you would expect!!) here’s the quote:
“Note: Coil and CDI must be minimum of 4 to 5 inches apart.”
http://www.swedetechracing.com/tech_tips/tech_tips_cr125.html
Ian :-)
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April 23, 2014 at 4:17 pm #26187Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Dillon,
I would read that again!! If that’s what it says it is totally wrong!
When the coil and CDI are mounted close together the electro-magnetic emissions from the coil can interfere with the programming of the CDI box.
Mount them as far apart as you like.
Also always use a resistor plug and a 5Kohm resistor cap for the same reason.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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April 21, 2014 at 12:26 pm #26024Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Chris
Yes it’s the same, 68mm bore. You also need the 68.8mm crankshaft to run with it.
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April 7, 2014 at 4:03 pm #25229Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Justin
We are actually expecting to get it on the dyno for the first time this week. That sounds absolutely crazy that we’ve been on track twice without it going on the dyno, but we were hit with availability on a specific part and then with some mods that we made. On both occasions finished the kart on the morning of the tests without time to dyno. Hopefully now, we have the time (6 weeks) to optimise and release the figures everyone is waiting for. However, we have learned an awful lot about the engine and the name of the game has been meeting peoples expectations regarding it’s appearing on track.
Chris’ summary is pretty spot on and anyone is welcome to either buy the kit to build their Honda into, or to have us build it for them using their Honda parts or for us to supply a brand new fully ready to go package.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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April 5, 2014 at 5:42 pm #25112Ian HarrisonParticipant
They are a Honda OEM part, so the vendor is not acknowledged/identified and I don’t recognise it as being from another established aftermarket supplier. What you can be sure of with Honda OEM parts is that they are of the best quality.
However, we rebuild the Honda OEM crankshafts tinplate and 2005 on, using the Pro-X rod kits. We have found them every bit as good as the Honda OEM rod kits.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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March 22, 2014 at 7:19 pm #24336Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Guys
First ever track outing for the Viper SK250S at Silverstone test day, with driver Mark Stansfield.

Next outing Oulton Park, Cheshire, UK March 27/28th MSA British Superkart ChampionshipBest Regards
Ian :)
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March 12, 2014 at 5:49 pm #23709Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Guys
The Viper SK250S is a 250cc single cylinder Superkart engine.
The cylinder is reversed (exhaust out-of-the-back) with a front mounted carburettor feeding into the crankcase via a reed induction system.
The crankshaft is fully shrouded with just a slot through to the top end for the connecting rod.
It has a bore and stroke of 68.0 x 68.8mm and a rod length of 128mm
The crankcases are machined from billet aluminium. It has a gear driven counterbalance shaft with an internal balance weight on the right and an external balance weight on the left.
The cylinder has 3 exhaust ports and 5 transfer ports.
Gearbox, clutch and selector mechanism are taken from the 2002-2007 Honda CR250 and in standard (UK) format it is a 5-speed with alternative gearbox ratios. Our 6-speed gearbox can also be fitted if local regulations allow.
The ignition is Viper Racing’s own digital programmable ignition that runs off the 2002-2007 Honda generator, however, many ignition options are possible.Best Regards
Ian :-)
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March 5, 2014 at 1:53 pm #23304Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Guys
You can’t see the longer mount, but it is in there. It is tight, but you have about 3-5mm clearance when the exhaust is fitted properly.


Best Regards
Ian :-)
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May 15, 2014 at 8:16 am #27534Ian HarrisonParticipant
OK Paul, I defer to your personal knowledge . . . . . but . . . . is it possible yours was a Swift!!
I now have it on good authority that Larry’s chassis is a Swift, manufactured by Doug Sheppard in the UK.
The only Swift I was aware of was one that was very similar to the Anderson AK (or perhaps the other way round), but my informant assures me that he used to race one of these A-frame versions and also sold a few along the way to local racers in the South-West of the UK.
In fact in my search I came across this thread, which I contributed something to a couple of years back and also involved Larry, I presume on a previous kart: http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=118460&sid=b0a8345c00c614a8b06face493b7b305
I believe that quite a few Swift 257’s were sold in the USA and perhaps there was even a series for them, which is confirmed by Mark Croslyn in the above thread???
The 125 conversion is probably a later addition by a previous owner.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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May 13, 2014 at 8:59 am #27405Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Larry
Seems like the consensus on this side of the pond is we haven’t a clue!! Maybe a home built effort that someone has used a few ideas from different manufacturers.
Perhaps someone on your side of the pond knows something?
Here’s the pictures of your chassis


Here is what Russell Anderson (Anderson CSK Supremo) said, “Don’t recognise this Ian, sure looks a bit of a mish/mash. No welded in steering, brake mounting. Home Brew then. Not Anderson”
Here is what Boyd Barrington said, ” I think this could well be a modified Spyda. We didn’t make two the same so it’s difficult to be certain, but we did do one (or more) with bolt in T at the front. The seat mounts would have been welded in to match my seat and the conversion to 125 mounts and an airbox(?) bracket are later mods I guess.
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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May 8, 2014 at 9:24 am #27110Ian HarrisonParticipant
You could put up an image. I could identify it from that
Here is a shot of the front right of a Maverick chassis showing the number plate position (it’s not always exactly there).
One of the Maverick’s distinguishing features is the mounting stub for the bottom ball joint (Rod-end). You can see that at the left of shot.
[URL=http://s186.photobucket.com/user/Viperracinguk/media/MavNo2_zps111354bc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x26/Viperracinguk/MavNo2_zps111354bc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Best Regards
Ian :-)
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March 18, 2014 at 6:12 pm #24062Ian HarrisonParticipant
Hi Guys
Thanks for the favourable comments.
As you might imagine we are now in the middle of the development programme to optimise carb/ignition/pipe design, etc.
As a special introductory price, the complete engine package of engine/carb/pipe and ignition is £5,995.00 UK pounds fully assembled, dyno-tested and ready to go.
The steering wheel is a Sparco car steering wheel and at present the buttons don’t do anything!! Just the wheel is the drivers personal choice . . . . nothing too exciting.
I believe that the ram-airbox will end up under the right-hand pod, with probably a snorkel duct on top of the pod.
Here’s a price list link for the full motor:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m52csesljxlwqs9/SK250S_Price-List_09.01.14.pdf
and a list for any potential self-builders with their own Honda crankcase induction Parts to use:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8aokmzwhp8q4kl5/SK250S_Self-Assembly_Pricing_09.01.14.pdfBest Regards
Ian
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March 11, 2014 at 4:58 pm #23641Ian HarrisonParticipant
Thanks BB
Ian
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March 3, 2014 at 5:21 pm #23134Ian HarrisonParticipant
Can’t confirm if it will or won’t, but here’s Mark’s picture. Perhaps someone knows?

Not sure I like it there. We either mount off the Anderson engine mount or from a bracket between the clutch cover and water pump. Pics tomorrow.
Best Regards
Ian:-)
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