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September 13, 2016 at 9:33 am #71639Frank RapisardaParticipant
It’s called a shift shaft and you only need to remove the clutch cover and possibly pull the clutch assembly it self out to replace it. It should only take 30mins or less to do.
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October 12, 2015 at 6:01 pm #55364Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hey Mr. Kart 76 do you know what size steering shaft your kart has? If you have a 20mm shaft you should look at getting a new style C.R.G clutch lever set up. The lever is not part of the steering wheel hub and can be moved to any position you like. You may also need to get a new steering wheel hub for a 100cc kart. I can txt you some pics of mine if you want, just give me a number to send them to.
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March 15, 2015 at 7:02 pm #44121Frank RapisardaParticipant
Barry, depending on how much timing you are running you may be able to get away with it, but make sure you don’t have a lot timing in it. I have a mod moto that I melted down in 5 laps on ms98 but I had a lot of timing, I don’t run anything less than 110 Sunoco or c12 V.P. anymore not worth the risk and the price of the fuel is close to the same.
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December 22, 2014 at 1:01 pm #39267Frank RapisardaParticipant
Brian, I race the NESS and had a mod moto. 2 years ago mod moto and KZ ran together but for the most part mod moto’s are out. I ran a KZ for most of this past year till I blew it up, and then put the mod moto back on. This time they made me run it in the stock Honda class. The new rule for this year is only KZ’s in the KZ class and all other will run in the Honda class, but not sure how they would score you. I am sure if you do well with a mod moto in a stock class someone will be complaining about it. I hate running stock stuff but I had to do it, you can go just about club race or national series and run it.
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June 17, 2014 at 9:06 am #29056Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hi John, I also ran last year at F1 with a mod moto and Dave told me no way I would pass the sound test . I had a 2 hole RLV box with a filter and a 14″ M4 silencer and it passed no problem. Note it was a new silencer, so the packing was fresh.
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June 5, 2014 at 8:33 am #28456Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hey Gary if that 97 runs half way good, and you just want to have fun grab it. Then give Mike @ shark shifter a call for all the mounts you will need, get a good used pipe and a carb and fuel system,then drive it till it blows. Then take the winter to rebuild it. I got an 01 off ebay this past winter and rebuilt it completely for about mid to high 600’s
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February 23, 2014 at 6:41 pm #22604Frank RapisardaParticipant
Dan taking it apart shouldn’t be a problem for if your a mechanic. I haven’t taken mine apart yet, but I was a motorcycle mechanic at one time, they are all close to the same. the one thing you want to make for yourself is a box made from a 2×4’s standing up on the 1 1/2 side. ( 12″ x 11″ ) Take the clutch side of the motor apart first then flip it over and split it from the ignition side. Make sure you tap on the countershaft (drive – output shaft ) so the trans doesn’t fall out, and pay attention to make sure if the trans lifts out of one of the bearings that you don’t drop a washer if it has any.
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February 20, 2014 at 6:23 pm #22401Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hi Dan, I just got a maxter myself, swedetech has the parts but they are not cheap. I think I will stay with my mod moto motors, the parts are so much cheaper.
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February 20, 2014 at 6:06 pm #22393Frank RapisardaParticipant
Thank you guy’s for all the feed back. I can see doing it on a chassis that you are running a 4 stroke motor and you cut off the R/S seat strut, but to cut the L/S off I just couldn’t understand it. I was worried that if I didn’t like this chassis it would be hard to sell because of the strut being cut off. I am going to fabricate a new O.E.M strut to weld back on, but now I don’t feel like I have to rush to get it welded back on. I will try driving it first with the bolt on one that came on the chassis, and pray it is better than my other kart ( 08 road rebel ).
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February 15, 2014 at 4:03 pm #22075Frank RapisardaParticipant
The reason I asked is because I just got a kart that only had like 4 hrs on it and was never raced. I didn’t see it in the pics of the kart because I would never think of someone doing that on a new kart and it’s only a large seat. He put a bolt on frame clamp seat strut and I just don’t know how it will effect the handling. I think the guy should have said something about it, I am not happy and the rest of the kart is in mint condition.
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January 17, 2014 at 8:57 pm #19779Frank RapisardaParticipant
Milan are the cylinders ported? Are the cases ported?
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December 28, 2013 at 8:33 am #18515Frank RapisardaParticipant
TJ sorry I do not. I have been fighting this kart for past whole season with a very tight condition. I can go around a turn at 25mph in neutral and the rear of the kart will hop. The only time the kart is half way good is if I try to blow the tires off it right from entre of a turn. I have spent hours & hours of testing and I just keep hitting a wall with this kart. I just got a super soft axle to try but I live in NJ so it will be another couple of months before the local track opens for the new year.
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December 24, 2013 at 11:34 am #18366Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hi Gary I was wondering if you solved your problem with the front tire lifting? I have a crg with the same problem ( 08 road rebel cr125 ) that I just saw on a video of the last time out and noticed it keeps lifting the inside front tire. My turn in is fine kart turns on a dime but then gets very tight and hops real bad. After I saw the video I see it lifts the front tire at the apex about a 1/2 inch or so off the ground and I am not getting into the throttle hard at all at that point because of the hopping in the rear of the kart.
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October 23, 2013 at 6:11 pm #13581Frank RapisardaParticipant
Marc can your friend email me some pics of it? My e mail is frank428cj@yahoo.com
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October 22, 2013 at 6:26 pm #13450Frank RapisardaParticipant
do you know what year it is?
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August 21, 2013 at 9:19 am #7677Frank RapisardaParticipant
Does anyone know if this class will be run later in the year like around x-mass? NJ guy coming down for x-mass with a mod moto and would like to race some place in FL.
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August 21, 2013 at 9:07 am #7676Frank RapisardaParticipant
Chris If your an x- moto cross guy then you know of belray oils. Belray gear saver 85 wt will stand up to the most abuse, or go with the 80 wt. for less drag on the motor, the motul trans oil is excellent chioce also. If you you can afford to change it after every race weekend that is best, but i would not go more than 3 race weekends. Then in the off season have your trans polished, it will shift like butter and last longer, you can do it your self but it takes about a good 8 hrs to do it right.
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July 22, 2013 at 10:18 pm #4541Frank RapisardaParticipant
Nigel crank seals should always put in after the cases have been put back together. small rubber hammer and socket or a 3/4″ punch. You should be able to press them half way in with your fingers.
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July 22, 2013 at 10:02 pm #4537Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hey Bob nice work, what is that carb off of ?
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July 19, 2013 at 8:32 pm #4157Frank RapisardaParticipant
Hey Jim Frank from NJ, great way to kick off the new look. If it is all about the money the cost of the parts alone will bankrupt most people. I can buy a complete honda crank for 135.00 to 150.00 everyday, cylinders 280.00 top end complete 125.00 for a KZ just a rod kit is 380.00 to 405.00 then send it to a shop to have it installed 50.00 – 75.00 A cylinder not sure but i am sure 500.00 plus, top ends 160.00 I live in the heart of KZ country ( NESS ) i am the only one that i know of with a mod honda. A good mod honda can run with the KZ no problem an not self destruct. I would like to see a real stock class, out of the box stock period for the honda and use a 05 motor, and have a box stock KZ class, if they get enough guy’s the class will live, if not buy a honda an have some fun, not like we make money in this sport, Oh and have a class like Riley said run what you brung, the only rule is it must be 125cc bring the family and friends and have a great day at the track.
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January 31, 2016 at 6:11 pm #60348Frank RapisardaParticipant
Greg Chris is right save your money and just pull the stator turn it over and you will see the holes are already slotted from the back side. You can use a dremel tool to slot the thin steel plate that is on the front side without taking it off, use the slot from the back side as your guide. The one other small detail that could turn into a big one, is only run 112 or higher race fuel or your motor won’t last more than a few laps because detonation.
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