[Ed hodgson]

Thanks very much. I’ll give them a call and see what I can find.

[Ed hodgson]

I have a pulse driven pump on my kart, and it works well. (It feeds a Mikuni TM-28 carb on a Honda CR 80 engine). The important parts of a pulse pump setup are where you source the pulse signal from, and making sure you route a return line back to the tank.

On a single pump setup, most people utilize a tee off the outlet of the pump, with one side providing fuel to the carb, and the remaining side being used as a return, otherwise you can run into flooding issues.

I believe a pump around setup is accomplished by removing the floats inside the carburetor, and utilizing 2 fuel pumps. One pump sends fuel to the carb, and the second pump returns fuel to the tank, so that it doesn’t over-fill and flood the system. They are more complex than a standard, single pump/return line setup. Plenty of reading on this great forum about both systems.

I personally have not used a pump around system, so I can’t tell you much more than that, and if I have misinformed you in any way, I apologize, and hope that a pump-around user can further enlighten you

[Ed hodgson]

Thanks for the PM’s and replies!

im currently just kicking it around, but pretty sure I’ll be going to a 125 chassis eventually.

Here’s hoping I can score a good roller when the time comes.

thanks one and all!

[Ed hodgson]

I should note that the 10 year age designation is not a “cut-off ” by any means. Just that I know I won’t be able to purchase a newer kart right now (school and family)

[Ed hodgson]

I’d like the bead breaker.

any chance you could send a picture to (440) 637-7767?

thanks in advance!

Ed

[Ed hodgson]

^^^ this.

You can fit a pretty tall driver on a standard kart chassis; a lot of it is seat positioning.

I agree that building a kart is a lot of fun. Depending on your ambition and skill, you can do quite a bit with just about any race-spec chassis.

To give you an idea, I built a CR-80 powered shifter out of a Coyote Widetrack chassis, complete with updated bodywork and parts straight from factory-spec shifter karts (Coyote doesn’t offer anything for shifter karts). And the entire kart can be returned to a clone-powered setup in one afternoon; there’s not one weld or permanent mod done to the chassis, everything bolts on.

The point I’m trying to make is that it’s important to have a good foundation, regardless of what you’re trying to do. It’s challenging, but extremely rewarding to build something one-off.

Good luck, building (to me) is almost as fun as riding.

[Ed hodgson]

Try getting ahold of a guy on here by the name of Stu Hayner.

When I was building my shifter, he had a a couple different sizes / styles of the part you’re looking for, at very reasonable pricing. Just a thought, hope it helps.

-Ed

[Ed hodgson]

Thanks one and all for the very helpful responses!

My fuel line situation is in good working order.

I’ll look in to a dellorto square pump.

Thanks for the specific make/model of carb recommendation for the CR 80. I am currently running the stock Keihin carb.

I’m betting it has a lot to do with jetting; the motor  felt like it was signing off halfway through the powerband in some turns and straights; and a plug test showed it was on the rich side. ( motor has excellent compression )

I wanted to swap to a flatslide carb due to my experience with them in MX and sleds. I’ll keep adjusting the jetting and hunt for the Mikuni model.

I especially appreciate the jetting suggestions. I realize they vary based on many conditions, but a starting point is very helpful. All comments and suggestions welcome.

Thanks very much!

-Ed

[Ed hodgson]

Thanks for the replies, one and all

I’ve raced dirtbikes, and used the clutch a lot on those,  controlling the power out of corners, etc.

When I’m riding this kart, I do let off the gas to upshift, it feels very smooth.

On downshifts, I let the engine de-celerate to where i think the next lowest gear would be at, and it downshifts very smooth too, sometimes I come into the lower gear a tad “hot” and the engine revs a little, but it’s not screaming its brains out. When I panic-braked and the engine quit in gear, I slid, but the engine was off, no rotation was taking place.

Shifting through the gears while engine is off is very smooth too; no weird clunks or sticking.

I’m just trying to pay very close attention to things, due to this being the first time I’ve ridden a gearbox-equipped kart.

*as far as the billet 3rd gear, where is a source for those?*

thank you all again!

[Ed hodgson]

Thanks that’s a great vid!

new to shifters, don’t want to accidentally hurt something

 

[Ed hodgson]

Still looking for a sprocket. Pretty much the last piece I need to finish the kart up. Anyone have one in the 25-30 tooth range?

thanks

ed

[Ed hodgson]

Thanks for the reply!

I’m pretty confident I’ll have the travel necessary to change gears, too.  First time building a shifter, I appreciate all the useful advice!

Thanks,

ed

[Ed hodgson]

Huge thanks to both Derek and Stu for the great deals and incredibly helpful tips and knowledge!! Thanks to both of you,

ed

[Ed hodgson]

I’m also looking for a sprocket for the axle.

Looking for a 30mm split sprocket with a 1/4″ keyway, 428 pitch, 25-30 teeth count.

if anyone has spares or extras, I’d like to purchase one. Thanks one and all,

Ed

[Ed hodgson]

Huge thanks to Derek for the awesome deal on the parts. Excellent individual to deal with!

thanks again!

Ed

[Ed hodgson]

Pm’s responded to. Thanks!

[Ed hodgson]

I should specify that I’m needing a 30mm x 90mm CR80 mount.

thanks!

Ed

[Ed hodgson]

oops, those wheels are euro bolt pattern, yeah? if so, they won’t fit my setup. sorry for any confusion.

[Ed hodgson]

Any chance you’d consider selling the spare set of tires/wheels?

[Ed hodgson]

Apologies for the “smart-phone enhanced” post; stupid fingers.

I am still searching for a 30mm 428p axle sprocket 25-30 tooth.

If you have one please let me know.

Thanks,
Ed

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