[brian downing]

Yes.
I don’t check here, please email bsd@panix.com

[brian downing]

Update post.
I don’t have a phone# to share online.
Email, make contact, and I’ll get in touch asap

[quote=94891]Contact number?<br>
Thanks Steve[/quote]

[brian downing]

SKF sells a grease for these, it is on their website.

Is just a pasty white lithium soap based grease.

I would also consider 3M Molikote, which I bought on Amazon

[brian downing]

If you are racing and subject to tech at the end of the race, I suggest you do not use pump fuel from your local gas station. The Methanol blend will DQ you if you place well. It may be fine and cheap for practice but not for racing. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that sells “off road” gasoline, then it should be fine too, but check. Some marinas have ethanol free gasoline as well

[brian downing]

Typically etown has practice on Sat, race on Sun. Beginning last year they began Sat practice 9-5 with races run 5-11 all on Sat, no Sun due to their tight schedule. We’ve always had people that have come Sat to use the track and “practice” but not return Sun for the race. I’m guessing that’s what you saw when the crowd cleared a bit at the end of practice.

I couldn’t make it this past weekend, personal scheduling issue.

Just curious, how many LO206s were in the practice? race?

Was the OP there? He wanted the LO206 class and got it, was he there?

[brian downing]

No, the NJMP race is being run by New Jersey Sprint Series
K.R.O.C. – Kart Race of Champions.
June 10-12
Full track

Entry fees are listed on pre-reg forms, but they’re not posted yet
They typically post event registration, event by event, there is no pre-season registration or cost info and last year costs varied track by track.

2015 NJSS Event One, at NJMP, was not the full track so the cost will likely go up.

In general, they were charging close to $50 per class, per day.

Their registration fees are separate from track entry, pit passes, and parking.

[brian downing]

Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/
McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/
Fastenal: https://www.fastenal.com/

And a 1/16” high speed steel drill bit (buy a dozen)

Make sure you have speed set correctly (apx 4,000 rpm)
Use some cheap 30 weight motor oil as cutting lube
Use a drill press if at all possible

If you want to cut the threaded end, you can make your own jig from a nut.
Use an old nylock, it helps prevent the bolt from rotating as the cut starts

Buy extras and practice, it’s a useful skill and will come in handy.
Buying pre-drilled metric is expensive and can be difficult to find.
Most pre-drilled are for the aircraft industry with very little metric to choose from.

[brian downing]

@Brad, it’s done.

New Jersey Sprint Series has announced the LO206 Jr and Sr classes for 2016.

This message on their Facebook page is just a few hours old

New for 2016:
Orgain Kart Race Of Champions(K.R.O.C.)
Presented by New Jersey Sprint Series
June 10-12, 2016 New Jersey Motorsports Park
on Full track/Tempest
Class structure coming soon- * LO206 Jr & Sr has been added *
Stay tuned!

ETown Dates and class structures aren’t usually finalized until end of Jan

[brian downing]

Call the guys at US Chrome, I’m sure one of their engineers can give you specific coefficient of friction numbers.

Homepage

http://www.usnicom.com/Content/files/WearRateSummaryPRI.pdf

US Chrome Corporation
Phone: 1-800-637-9019
Email: uscsales@rochester.rr.com:

[brian downing]

I have an older Margay Synchro/AC that has a 40mm rear axle.
If you’re serious we can take this offline, trade pics and details.
Get it out of my garage.
PM me

[brian downing]

Great, glad to have it! Hell for $580 I’ll buy one too.
Point was simply to get racer’s buy-in first, then the class, not other way round. Englishtown is killing us with their crossfit, parcours weekends.
Racing is dying here and what we need are large classes. If LO206 can bring it, great.

We were the lone Yamaha Jr. entry at Englishtown first weekend 2015, yes 1 entry. We had to hurry and buy a different motor. Went cheap, bought a PRD; typical weekend was 4 entries. Now X30 for ’16. Life’s short and I enjoy the racing, so I’d rather spend it once, and get it right than spend it twice and have a motor that’s just for practice(actually, it’s very nice having a practice motor. :)

[brian downing]

Been trying for the past two years, gave up.
The point about watching was, that as a racer, we have to wait between heats, for our next race, and yes, I enjoy watching races. So, while we wait we watch our peers race, talk to them, ask questions about other setups, etc. But, the day is long, We arrive at 8am, practice, race, go home, unpack, and we are tired. So, in the middle of the day, with races with few entries (some of those have been our races, my son’s class has 4 regulars), the races can be boring to watch. My point was that we need to have classes that are full, and that MANY people want to be part of, not just run what ya brung, we’ll fit you in somewhere. This ain’t SCCA!

[brian downing]

I can tell you that running a race with 3 guys can be a less than satisfying race. It only takes two to race, but unless they’re evenly matched it’s just two guys on the track at the same time, each essentially racing the clock.

I’m sorry to say this, but to be quite frank, I’m tired of standing around watching the classes with 3 guys racing. It’s not fun to watch classes that small. I’ll sit through it for the real young kids, because they’re the future of the sport, but the Sr classes with 3 karts need to be scratched. It’s more exciting to see two kids battle for tenth place with 15+ entries. There’s lots of skin in the game, lots of spectators, lots of action, and that’s what racing is all about, isn’t it?

We struggled with the “affordable” classes, KT100, PRD, in New Jersey too, but unfortunately there weren’t enough entries and we are making the switch to TAG in ’16. In this day and age it’s a sad fact, but it takes real money to go karting.

[brian downing]

There is a forum dedicated to indoor karting, I would post there instead of general. Not everyone checks this forum and posts are easily missed.

The indoor karting forum is here
https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/forum/indoor-sport-karting/

[brian downing]

One of the few reasons I still use ebay and paypal, is for their buyer protection. Yes, it’s sad to see fellow racers rip off one another, but it happens all too frequently.

Always ask for pictures of anything you buy before buying, and pay with paypal. I purchased a “blueprinted” kt100 for $800, turned out it was an airplane kt100 that was in very bad shape. Paypal refunded the entire $800.

[brian downing]

It’s called a troll and the bait is way too obvious

[brian downing]

I’ve done business with Sven, but I’ve found that he only stocks some of what he lists on his site. Some items are relisted and he drop ships them. If an item appears to be out of stock on most web sites and Magna shows it in stock, it’s probably not.
If Sven doesn’t reply, he’s probably at a race. He’s been very helpful and if I lived in FLA I’d give him more business.

[brian downing]

I had a new kart shipped, was one of the std freight haulers, they don’t ship door to door, have to drop off and pick up from one of their centers.

Pallet is required as most packages are lifted by forklift, wood box around isn’t necessary, can make it out of cardboard, but you need to protect kart in the event cargo is stacked and something is put on top of it.

My steering wheel was crushed because we didn’t have enough topside protection. One could also remove wheel before crating.

[brian downing]

One other, minor factor, is having them facing inward or outward can stiffen or loosen the axle. It’s a very minor tuning aid, and I haven’t met a driver yet that could feel the difference, but it will change the axle’s deflection.
Facing in will stiffen the axle a tad compared to facing out which loosens the axle.

Just an update to this, I was speaking with someone who’s been using these for quite a while and he said to ensure both collets point in the same direction. Since the collars pull the axle during tightening, having the collars pointing inward would cause a lateral tension and the collars both outward would cause a lateral stretch. Having them both in the same direction will also cause the axle to shift 1mm in that direction after tightening the collars.

If there are any racerz here that believe they can notice this, or have this effect their lap times by any measurable amount, Torro Rosso has a car with your name on it!

[brian downing]

Lowering the front or rear will change the center of gravity and effect side bite and handling. You need to leave this for chassis tuning.

Can you move the seat?
Do you already have added weights? If so start with moving those.

[brian downing]

I cut a chain as short as possible to fit the gearing I expect to use at a given track, plus or minus one tooth.

I have several chains and store them with the sprockets.
At thirty bucks a pop it’s a worthwhile investment.

Also, check to make sure the motor mount isn’t sitting on top of a frame weld and that the airbox is clear. You need to be able to move the motor & mount freely back and forth without feeling any “bumps”.

There was one guy I saw lose his chain every session.
When that happens, something is wrong and one must find the root cause.

[brian downing]

Ditto the RLV is much better than the cheap one Comet sells.

They are not perfect though so I always carry a spare, along with spare pin screws, etc.

[brian downing]

Looks fun, and I did stuff like this when I was younger, but…

What about grownup stuff like liability? What if you hit a parked car, are you insured?

What’s fun about karting is driving on the limit and that requires a track with runoff areas, ambulance, etc. Safety, safety, safety. I know I sound like an old man, and I am, but age brings with it sagacity.

[brian downing]

Each bearing is independent of the other and they don’t have to be pointing the same direction. However if you need to loosen and change an axle one would certainly want the left side (brake side) to point out towards the tire to make access to the set screws easier. If you have the set screws pointed from the cassette towards the rotor it’ll give you very little room to work.
Conversely, if you CAN make that work, then you might want the removable seals facing such that they are easily removed so you can more easily clean and regrease the bearings.
Whatever works for you.
Think about maintenance, go through a mental dry run of tightening, changing axle and regreasing, then decide what you want to do

[brian downing]

No one can tell you how to spend your money, but I’d say stick with the old chassis and do the work to freshen it.

There’s a good chance your OTK Roller will need the same work too as any used kart needs maint, such as brakes, bearings, etc.

Powercoating is a waste of money as it won’t make the kart go any faster. If you can get it done cheaply then go ahead, why not, but any more than $100 is a waste of $.

Instead I’d spend the money on a coach and making sure your safety gear is up to date.

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