[Craig Drabik]

On the Leopard there was a difference.  More importantly, I’d check your rules.  Many series require the clutch to use OEM parts, which would make those aftermarket drivers illegal.

[Craig Drabik]

I forgot to add:  The kart is in the Buffalo, NY area.  I’m willing to work with a prospective buyer to meet/deliver the chassis.

[Craig Drabik]

I also have a push-button Leopard I can mount and sell as a race-ready package if interested.

[Craig Drabik]

Are the wheels for 4.5/7.1?  Interested in a set if you still have them.

 

craig.drabik@gmail.com

[Craig Drabik]

When we ran WF in the WNYKA/Batavia Kart Club, we ran them box stock, stock clutch, exhaust, etc.  We also combined the WF with KT-100 can and stock Animal, using weight to equalize.  We didn’t seal engines so we could keep costs down for folks who wanted to do their own maintenance.  In reality it wasn’t really an issue for us having people tinkering with the engine for performance reasons.

I think karting tends to go through these cycles where everyone starts to become obsessed with what’s going on with “nationals”, and the clubs tend to evolve to support what’s being run in WKA or SKUSA or F-Series or whatever.  I think that’s proved to be dangerous for the wider sport of karting.  Those packages tend to be more expensive, higher maintenance, and less accessible for new folks or people who just want to have fun in a kart.  I think we’re in one of those cycles now.  Club numbers are down, and we’re left with few accessible options to get new people into the clubs.  The GVKC tries to be accommodating by running tons of classes.  WNYKC tried to use equivalence with weight.  Not sure what the solution is but we need IMHO two steps on the club ladder in terms of speed before people step up to 125cc speed and cost.

[Craig Drabik]

I never understood why the World Formula got so little traction having seen what the 206 has been able to do.  The difference in price isn’t huge, maintenance is about the same, and you have double the power.

[Craig Drabik]

The Gearup Challenge is the competitive travel version.  The State championship is meant to be more in line with club-level racing.  I’ve never raced in the state championship, but I’d imagine it’d be OK for a beginner.  I don’t know if there are clubs beyond the state championship at E-Town.  OVRP does have club racing, but a quick look at their site does seem to show “TaG or bust” as your senior options.

I think that’s really unfortunate personally.

There was a lot I had to learn when I moved up from WF to TaG – chassis tuning is more important, learning to dial in a carb, more wrenching.  I think if I had to learn all that AND learn to drive AND do it with 50% more power than I had before, that would be a lot to handle.

[Craig Drabik]

So..  just a few cents of advice from my own personal experience.

I currently run the F-Series (not the state championship).  I like it a lot.  I’d take a bit of an issue with it being “for all skill levels”.  I’d say that if you’re a decent driver, you’ll have someone to race with in TaG or F125 and you probably won’t be in the way too much.  If you’re a newbie or one of the slow guys, you’re going to find yourself frustrated by what you perceive to be lack of manners from the fast guys, who in turn will be frustrated that they’re sharing the track with guys in the same class who are a few seconds a lap slower than they are.  Do yourself a favor and go club racing and learn to race before stepping up to a faster stage.

I started out racing Briggs World Formula – think of it as an LO206 with Yamaha KT-100 levels of power.  It’s an awesome platform for people looking to have fun on the track.  It ran with no rebuilds and just oil changes and pump gas.  My Leopards need rebuilds every 10 hours (at least).  I typically spring for two rebuilds a year.  They run on race gas and 2-stroke oil, which winds up being $15 a gallon.  TaGs burn up tires faster ($225 a set).  Chains on a TaG are disposable unless you run O-ring or Panther chains, and they’re like $60-$80 a pop.  Your costs on an ongoing basis are much, much higher.

Finally – and I’m sure this isn’t going to be a popular statement – TaG is too fast for a new guy.  You’ll learn more, spend less, have more fun, and get better faster with a lower-power class.  Jumping into TaG is like skipping Formula Ford and F4 and jumping right into F3.

I can’t speak specifically to the class structures at E-Town, NJMP, and OVRP but I imagine it isn’t TaG or nothing.  Look for a stock 4-cycle class or Yamaha KT-100 class and start there.  Learn to race, learn to work on the kart, learn to tune the carb if you run 2-cycle.  Get a handle on the expenses and how much of a budget you have to race with, then step up to faster equipment or regional and national competition when you’re ready.

Shameless plug:  I’ve got two Arrow chassis for sale in the Buffalo area :)

[Craig Drabik]

Another price drop on these chassis.  Looking for offers to get them sold!

[Craig Drabik]

Price drop.  Looking for offers.  These are both great chassis to get into karting or step up to TaG.

[Craig Drabik]

Both karts still available.  Offers wanted.  Willing to ship if buyer makes the arrangements.

[Craig Drabik]

Both chassis still available.  Looking for offers.  Willing to ship if the buyer makes the arrangements.

[Craig Drabik]

Good point – I’m using GPS on Mychron 5 as well.

[Craig Drabik]

I’ve run cylinder head temperature on World Formula engines in the past, but I don’t think it’s necessary.  For LO206 probably even less necessary.  You don’t have to worry about head temps like on a Yamaha.  Just RPM and the correct lap beacon for the track.

[Craig Drabik]

Prices lowered again.  Make an offer, want them sold!

[Craig Drabik]

Prices reduced $150.  Make an offer, want them sold!

[Craig Drabik]

In the F125 class at least Mike’s testing holds up.  Times were maybe a couple tenths off of last year, but only dropped a few tenths from qualifying until the end of the race.  I ran my fastest lap on lap 7 of the final heat with something like 35 laps on the tires between qualifying and the three heats.  The yellows were down about a second last year.

[Craig Drabik]

Those Sniper adjusters are the bomb, by the way.  I’ve got them on my chassis.  Totally worth $116 for the pair.  Set and forget, and the way they work means everything is locked in and less likely to move around over time.

[Craig Drabik]

I have not yet run them, but some fellow F-Series racers have.  We’ll be switching to them this year in the F-Series.  From what I’ve heard they are much more durable than the MGs and about the same lap time.

F-Series kicks off in Mooresville next weekend.  If the rain holds off I’ll have some first-hand experience with them then.

[Craig Drabik]

New prices

[Craig Drabik]

There can be chain clearance issues with crossmembers on 2-cycle karts when used in 4-cycle applications.  The chains on the Briggs engines are inboard (between engine and seat) while 2-cycles are outboard.  The chain can hit the crossmember depending on gear size and engine mounting position.

[Craig Drabik]

Suit designed for karting – as others have said it must be abrasion resistant.  Same for gloves.  A rib vest is a good idea.  You might be able to get away without it in LO206 if the track and curbs are smooth, but rib injuries are common, painful, and take a long time to heal.

Neck braces may be mandatory – check your rules!  I’ve never been a fan of the foam donut neck collars.  I think they’re probably worthless in a rollover except to stop your helmet cracking your collarbones.  I’ve used the EVS brace for years, but there are others out there at various price points.

[Craig Drabik]

I’ve started traveling really light.  The folks I travel with have a pretty stocked trailer and so the kit I bring for myself has been pared down to just the essentials and I think makes a good starter kit for someone getting into the sport.

• 10 and 13mm ratcheting wrenches
• T-Handle allen wrenches, 4mm-6mm sizes.
• Ratchet with spark plug socket, extension, and hex ends for wheel nuts and stub axle nuts.  Pick the sizes you need for your kart’s setup.
• Needle nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Chain breaker for your chain size, probably 219.
• If your track doesn’t have a compressor, then get yourself a small portable air tank and fill at gas station.

Pretty much everything else you can borrow, and if you find yourself borrowing, then buy it and throw it in the box.  I almost never use sockets any more for anything thanks to the invention of the ratcheting wrench.

If/when it comes time that you want to change your own tires, then you’ll need a compressor, bead breaker, and a tool like the tire whiz or tongs.  I got away with my first couple changes thanks to helpful folks who helped me through the first few changes on their equipment, then I bought my own.  Eventually you’re going to want to get those kinds of tools, but you don’t need them day one.  Chain aligners, chassis aligners (snipers), etc all fall into that category.  You don’t need to be in a rush to get everything.

I have a whole garage full of sockets, air tools, etc and most of it never gets used.

[Craig Drabik]

[quote quote=76743]

David Cole wrote:

Who was faster in it?????

[quote quote=76741]We also have a Briggs World Formula and Senior LO 206 class as well. [/quote]

I’ve always thought people would be better off starting in lower power, lower cost, lower maintenance classes.  I raced World Formula for years and only moved up to TaG when I started wanting to race regionally.  I bought a World Formula brand new for just over $1000, ran it four years with only oil changes and a clutch replacement, and won a lot of club races in it.  You’ll spend that much on a national motor shop doing an engine rebuild on a TaG motor, plus the cost of the engine in the first place.

 

Fall in love with the sport first, then you won’t mind spending the money to go faster while staying competitive.

[Craig Drabik]

I use the single sided bead breaker and tire tongs.  I’ve gotten good at getting the tire over the rim by hand.  Usually at the track we have two bead breakers, so we set up one for the front rims and the other for rears.

 

I’ve also used the tire whiz.  It works fine, but the tongs are easier and can be used to get the bead over the rim for mounting if you want.  I’ve never used any of the other tools.  I’ve never been able to justify the additional costs to myself :)

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