[Brandon Ryan]

Wade, you are lucky to have the support you have.

 

I agree with everyone here with saying support is the biggest thing to look at when getting into racing. I am new like yourself, and I was more or less forced into going with OTK. I chose an FA Kart because I liked the colors the best. My decision factor came down to my local track that I will race at probably 97% of the time, only stocks and/or carries OTK. I would rather not have a race or race weekend end, because my shop can not get the part because they dont support the brand. If it is something like the part is an unusual break they don’t normally stock, or they are just out of stock, well that is my fault for not being prepared.

 

I would say if you can find a low time used chassis you will always come out ahead. I got an 2012 FA chassis that had 5-6 hours on it for 2000 used, not a scratch on the underneath of the chassis. Deals are out there, may take more time to source them out, but they are out there. Also go to a race day, you would be surprised some of the absolute steals you will find on a race day.

 

-Brandon

[Brandon Ryan]

Exhaust packing is Exhaust packing, there are 4 different types. I don’t really for see how it could be deemed illegal exhaust packing.

1.) Continuous Bulk Fiber

2.)Fiberglass mats

3.)Steel Wool

4.)Pre-formed glass, or Glass/steel pillows

 

The pre formed glass will last you the longest, will be the easiest to install, but will also cost the most.

 

Again I don’t see how exhaust packing can be dubbed illegal, as long as you stay under the DB threshhold (assuming there is one)

[Brandon Ryan]

Tony and Matt, thank you guys. I am in the same boat as the OP, so your answers are helping me as well.

[Brandon Ryan]

Man I need to move out of FL then, lol.

 

Any noticeable oil usage other than the normal, or leaking?  I know my old YZ125 used to burn oil through the exhaust and I would go through packing faster because of this. It already gets hot, add oil to the mixture you get the idea.

 

Just trying to help with my 2 stroke 125 knowledge moreso than my lack of kart knowledge.

[Brandon Ryan]

Matt what software was used in that video?

[Brandon Ryan]

From my research the Parilla Leopard with MY09 (not sure what this is, but it sure is popolar lol) seems to be the popular motor in tag.

[Brandon Ryan]

Lean makes power though. I don’t understand how you are going through exhaust packing in one race. You are talking colder than fall temperature if that is the case.

 

 

[Brandon Ryan]

Hey Sam,

 

I am new to the sport like you, and also in Florida, but our racing scene here is great as far as comrodery goes. I literally went to my local track one race day, walked around the paddock, and everyone was approachable. Clearly picking the right time to approach is key also. I saw a group doing an axle swap, so I figured then was a bad time to talk to them.

 

Also if you are like me with that dear in headlights look, they all seemed to know I was new to the scene if you will.

 

Expense from what I hear, is all dependent on how far, and competitive you want to be. You can do the bare essentials to get by with just racing, but you will see it in your results I feel. Or you can treat this as your own race team and go all out. Same with any hobby though the biggest expense is the initial plunge. I have heard from everyone running at my local track that Rotax is the cheapest overall after the initial plunge.

 

Others argue shifter is cheaper after the initial, or leopard. I believe it is as expensive as you make it. If you want a new chassis every year, a fresh rebuild every so many races, clearly this will be more expensive, but you will also see more consistancy.

 

Shifter curve seems so great because it is the closest thing to an F1 car as you will get iwth a kart. You have a hand clutch for initial first gear, you also have front brakes as well as the one on the rear axle. A 6 speed tranny that you have to manually shift 20-30x a lap, all while trying to hit the perfect mark, and be in the right gear.

 

 

[Brandon Ryan]

http://www.kartspeedmotorsports.mobi/new-karts/gp-racing-parts.html

 

Says they carry the full line but does not list them on the website. Best I could find for you.

[Brandon Ryan]

Tires from what I can tell are a spec tire dependent on the class you choose to run.

 

Unforutunately there is no real getting around that aspect, unless you have a local that is sponsored for tires and runs a practice session on a new set and disgards the old set.

 

We have the FWT coming into town for us, so I am hoping to score a couple sets myself, not going to be racing, but attending nonetheless.

[Brandon Ryan]

Wade,

 

Me and my friend are in the same boat as you, and the majority of the answers have already been provided for you. I will give you a few of our situational decisions, and maybe it can lead you to a properly based decision.

 

Class Size: This is a huge thing for us, we have been racing everything together all of our lives, and we love competition. ALSO, we just recently got done building 2 SCCA STL class honda civics, and the class in florida literally died over the off season. My thing is I will ruin 10K worth of racing machine if I am out there with 15-20 people, but I refuse to risk my money to race 3 people.

 

Availibility and knowledge: Where we race in Ocala, FL. Tony Kart is the go to chassis. Allbeit Tony Kart, FA Kart, Cosmic, Expirit, but all tony kart nonetheless. Also our home track OGP only stocks TK parts because of this. Their travel team, and race team all run Tony Karts, so clearly this decision was pre-determined for us. I refuse to have a race weekend ruined, or ended because I broke a part I cannot get because nobody carries it. If I break something and they are out of stock, well that is just dumb luck, and I chaulk it up as a lesson learned. Obviously also because they race, own, operate, and sell TK clearly the knowledge to help us with the tuning learning curve is there.

 

Reliability: I have read great things about all the TaG, and Rotax FR125 motors. I have also read bad things. The bad things usually seem to stem back to whom the builder was, more so than the product itself. I believe if you find a QUALITY engine builder, its just like a real car engine, or dirtbike engine. Everything is only as reliable as the maintenance program you put fourth.

 

For us we chose Rotax Masters class, we are both 30 but we meet the minimum weight of the driver without helmet of 190+. Another reason we chose the Rotax motor is that it essentially gives us more classes to run. I can run TaG Heavy and Rotax Masters during the FKCS, if I wanted to. All without changing a thing, will I be as competitive? Probably not, this will be my first year in a kart. Closest thing I have is 1/4 midgets, see the similarity at all?

 

All-in-All it comes down with like everything you do. What is popular in your area, what type of support can you get, and what is the best bang for the buck.

 

I hope this helps you out,

Brandon

[Brandon Ryan]

Mounting to the radiator is a different story, I have no idea how you would do that.

[Brandon Ryan]

Ideally you can make your own, but I believe people buy the handle bar mount, and only use the part that the gopro mounts to, and then mount the bottom directly to the fairing.

 

My description is poor, but if you google image search GoPro Hero 3 Handlebar mount, it will make complete sense.

[Brandon Ryan]

Kurt I did not know that about the mounting locations. But I presume my theory would be perfect for practice and technique development, more so than racing.

[Brandon Ryan]

I actually just looked the SmartyCam for this thread. While it does look to be an awesome tool, I would go with a GoPro, better yet the 3 GoPro’s you could buy for one SmartyCam.

 

Place them on your kart in locations where you can see what you are doing while you race, and you can edit them side/side to see where improvements can be made, and why. Also you will be able to develope better form, and see where it needs to be tweaked.

 

You could buy 3 GoPro 3 Silver editions, and all mounts required, (I suggest Helmet, Front fairing and front bumper) for the price of 1 SmartyCam. Granted you dont get the telemetry but if you have a mychron system you don’t need it.

 

Also you can buy the black, but i don’t feel there is enough advatage over the silver to warrant the extra price, I have owned both.

Also I would set them up to where the Helmet catches your driving, the front fairing catches your feet, and the front bumper catches your seat position (facing you not the track).

 

Again only my advice, and if some of my terminology is incorrect, I do not race karts, neither do I own one, yet.  But this is what we did in our SCCA cars, and we saw vast improvements because we were able to see where they needed to be made. I have to assume, purely ignorant to kart racing, that this theory would work the same.

 

Hope this helps,

Brandon

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