[Evan Fraser]

I’ve found Canadian sources for both the Bengio and Ribtect so I’m just trying to figure out which to get.  Thanks guys!

[Evan Fraser]

[quote quote=65018]I have no vested interests[/quote]

Well played sir!

Robby, thank you, glad you’re not dead.

I kind of wanted to go with the Ribtect but was somewhat thwarted by the website being down, and being Canadian my dealer options are limited.  I’ll look into the Bengio as well TJ, thanks.  Regardless I’m spending more on chiropractors than I could spend on a good vest, as my original Tillett Ribtec just isn’t doing it, and here I sit with sore ribs and dizzy spells.

[Evan Fraser]

That’s pretty much exactly what I had in mind Freddy.  I actually went to the shops first, no one has a table that’ll do yokes.  I had the frame itself straightened in the off-season at my dealer.

I may do the caliper and crescent wrench method too, but I’d prefer to keep the yokes as true as possible.  I figure if the force on the spindles can cause the bend in the first place, a similarly shaped tool can bend them back.

Thanks guys.  I’ll let you know if it works out.

[Evan Fraser]

Clippers?

[Evan Fraser]

For anyone wondering about the end result of all this:

I started by removing some of the material between the inner and outer surface of the pinch point, with no success.  Then I machined out the inside of the cassettes with wire brushes and emery cloth, found it much easier to insert the bearings but was still tight at the pinch point.  I then split the cassette completely at the pinch point.

I was on track for the next race weekend and the difference was huge.  I am now free out of the corners and able to turn much better and accelerate out of the corners again.  End result was that bearings unable to twist in their cassettes = bind, at least in a low power class.  I’m going to take a bit more material off and polish the inner race of the cassettes up nicely as there’s a bit more I can get out of them.

[Evan Fraser]

Gary I could be wrong but I thought the idea was that these bearings should be free to rotate in the cassette to allow for the axle to flex, otherwise they’ll hold the axle dead straight or worse bind it if the bearings are out of alignment.  On my last two karts (a Tony and a CRG) the bearings could be rotated easily by hand in the cassette so I’m basing my conclusions off of that.

These took more than a mallet (I tried that), they took such a beating that the outer covers of the bearings actually buckled slightly from the pressure we applied to the inside of the bearing.

[Evan Fraser]

Hi again guys,

The plot thickens.  I was able to get the bearings out by sticking the cassettes in a vice and using a hammer handle to force them to twist.  It took a fair bit of doing.  I purchased new bearings and when I went to put them in discovered they’re just as tight.  I don’t mean a bit snug I mean impossible to twist into place by hand.  This suggests to me that the cassettes are deformed, possibly overtightened at some point.  So my question:

These are aluminum cassettes.  This is where the pinch bolt goes through.  Can anyone think of a way to force it to spread back out?  I’ve put a nut in there on the pinch bolt and attempted to loosen the nut on the bolt but that just tries to stretch the bolt.

[Evan Fraser]

I think I’ve found my problem.  One rear bearing is shot, and all three rear bearings are frozen in their carriers.  Can’t get them out or to even move.  I also went over the frame by look and feel and found no cracking.  There was a slight deformation under one of the motor mounts where it’s crushed a tiny bit but that’s it.

Thanks for all your help guys.  I’m going to replace these bearings and see where that gets me.

[Evan Fraser]

Roll is straight, haven’t checked it on scales.  I’m going to take a good hard look at everything when I take it apart this weekend.

[Evan Fraser]

I was out for testing this weekend and had no luck.  I added seat struts and added caster and ackerman to the front.  I widened the front track to max and installed the front bar at one point for testing and when the wheel was turned to lock the opposite rear wheel wouldn’t just get light, it would lift off the ground, so the jacking is certainly there.  I had one guy tell me that I was lifting the inside rear on entry and then it would plant itself back down and stick.  I still have ridiculous understeer at all points in the corner.  I’m so stuck that the kart only accelerates in a straight line.  I even took all my lead off and moved my seat back so my struts are nearly vertical to the mounting points on the bearing carriers.

At this point I’m thinking of taking the front and rear apart completely and checking everything before I put it back on.  While I have very little rolling resistance going straight I’m beginning to wonder if one of my bearings is locking up when twisted.

I did also inspect the frame and while I do have some cracked paint the tubing underneath it appears to be intact.

I took a friend’s kart out for a spin and knocked 2.5s off my lap time.  He took mine out and lost 3s.  At least I know I don’t just suck horribly :D

Thanks again guys.

[Evan Fraser]

Rob:

Sort of ASN Canada Rules.  We run 55″ rear at our club.  I did have a super soft axle in too and that didn’t help, I just couldn’t get the lift.  Considering this is a 2-cycle chassis I do have 50mm rear parts.  I’m going to experiment this weekend on jacking effect through caster and ackerman adjustments and adding in seat struts to the outside of the bearing carriers to get the damn rear to lift.

One thing I noticed when replacing the rear axle is that when securing the two bearing carriers when I tightened the top bolts on one of them the axle started dragging.  I shimmed the top bolts to stand the carrier up more and it didn’t drag.  Are my pinch bolts too tight and not allowing the bearings to twist?

[Evan Fraser]

Thanks Pat. My snipers tell me I’m either bent or off center. I’ll also check for cracks. Failing all that my plan is to change my tuning goal from grip reduction to jacking effect. Next race in August so I hope to get some practice before then.

[Evan Fraser]

Jim: Thanks for the advice, I do try to balance my pressures (we get distinctly higher temperatures on the left side) but I’ll give it some closer focus. Also LO206 on our track doesn’t lift anywhere but I’ve experimented with it to see if it helps. Usually I run the entire race at WOT and balance with the brakes. Hopping doesn’t scare me, I was racing Rok GP before this year :D

[Evan Fraser]

TJ: All those adjustments were made one at a time and tested but I agree with going back to baseline and doing the opposite. I think I’ll try to go more towards jacking effect and less towards grip reduction.

Walt: Nope, just aluminum, 185mm.

Gary: In my sig. Formula K FK01, LO206. Normal baseline is two front spacers, neutral front pills, no torsion bars, max rear track, mid height all around, seat tight bumper loose.

[Evan Fraser]

Everything I can think of to take grip out. Front track in, decrease Ackerman, remove caster (neutral pills), no seat struts, seat loose and tight, seat position forward, front torsion bar out and in, rear track at max, bumper loose, rear ride low, mid and high, third bearing out and in, probably more I haven’t thought of. My entry speed is the same or faster than other karts but my exit is awful.

I’m also on a new short block and followed recommended break in after my last one started leaking from the usual place.

[Evan Fraser]

Max is 55″, I’m running 54″ because of the short hubs.  6″ rear tires.  I’ll check out your comments.

[Evan Fraser]

Ya I’m getting to smooth.  Gentle hands, lock in the turn, no twitching.  I’m using #35 chain bought from one of our local dealers (whom I trust) and it’s racing chain.  My father-in-law knows where I can get some really quality chain though so I may get that in bulk and change it frequently.

Bernie you’re so right about the split sprocket, what a little bugger that thing is.  Loose but not free.  I’ll start with where I’m binding and slowly loosen it off.  Thanks guys!

[Evan Fraser]

Excellent point.  Thanks.

[Evan Fraser]

TJ:

It strikes me that the 2mm per box rule wouldn’t really hold though as the deflection of the laser would be greater or lower depending on how far apart the lasers are.  Like sticking it on the end of a spindle would make it appear to have more toe than if the laser were placed on the inside of the spindle.  Or different types of spindle!

I guess what I’m wondering, if it’s 2mm per box where are the lasers located?

[Evan Fraser]

I worked that race and if I recall correctly the neck protection rule was waived for this race.  Probably because of many of the Canadian racers being used to racing under the ASN Canada rules that don’t require it.

Nice pictures!

[Evan Fraser]

I totally fell for this. Well played David.

[Evan Fraser]

I just thought of this last night.. do CR125’s have reed admission?  I had a similar issue with my Rok GP where when it was cold it was fine but it would pick up randomly, and it would idle really high at the end of the race.  Turns out I had a dime-sized hole in one of my reeds.  Replaced the reed and it was fine.  If it has them, have you checked them?

[Evan Fraser]

BY16329 should be the serial number, the other number I don’t know, I’m curious too.

[Evan Fraser]

I saw one just last race at WCKC in Chilliwack, BC, Canada.  Sweet looking kart.  I especially like the adjustable seat mounting.  It’s also my favourite colour.  Black!

[Evan Fraser]

I have to agree that the crash in activity coincided with the change to the new forums.  The old forums were old and change happens, that’s the way of the world, but in my opinion that’s what killed off the regular activity.  Before the change I could spend hours reading the different topics (admittedly I was newer and had so much more to learn).  Now a “recent” post is one that’s less than two days old.  I’m not pointing fingers though.  EKN did what it felt was necessary and to this day you still have the EKN 101 article to try to bring existing members in to the new site.

Hey Daryle I’m curious, what kind of series do that?  Being banned for criticism, constructive or otherwise, is just censorship.  Sadly very typical of the world we live in these days.  Maybe if you’re going to mention specific series’ PM me so you don’t get banned :)

[Author]

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