[Jim Stine]

Price lowered to $1500 for turnkey package. Motivated seller, need the garage space!

[Jim Stine]

[Jim Stine]

Stick the axle into the bearing to use as a leverage bar. You need to rotate the bearing 90 degrees on a horizontal axis to remove them from the carrier. You’ll see the slot on the carrier where it pulls out, that’s your pivot point.

You can set/bolt the bearing in the hanger on the chassis and stick the axle in the bearing sleeve, pull up, or push down. Or you can do it off the chassis. I usually just stand the axle up vertically, slide the bearing on the top of it and tap the carrier on the top or bottom with a rubber/plastic mallet to get it to rotate.

make sense?

[Jim Stine]

OTK is pretty dominate at NCMP in the Yami classes. We joke about it becoming “spec Tony Kart”

You can make anything fast but, I prefer OTK because they’re fast right out of the box with little tuning required. Lets you focus on driving.

[Jim Stine]

sent you a pm

[Jim Stine]

I’m in! Just have to try and not overthink it like I always do. Probably better off having my wife, who knows nothing about sports, fill mine out. :)

[Jim Stine]

Have a TaG airbox/filter that I will trade for.

[Jim Stine]

http://cometkartsales.com/Lead-Weight-Hex-Head-Drilled-Bolt-Kit.html

I prefer a drilled bolt to double nut.

 

 

[Jim Stine]

I would say don’t try to compare your OTK tuning to what the 4-stroke chassis guys are doing. The same tuning formulas don’t always apply between different chassis, especially those 4-stroke chassis. Typically a softer on axle in an Arrow 4S will free the kart up, the opposite is true in my EVRR. The harder axle frees the rear.

If you don’t already have it, download the and print out the 2011 J3 Competition Knowledge Packet. It’s a great tuning guide for the OTK cassis.

From the J3 Packet:

9. Axle Chart and the effectiveness

Axles are very much talked about regarding tuning a Kart and rightfully so. OTK produces six (6) axles for the 100cc category and five (5) for the 125cc gearbox category. OTK Type ‘N’ is the standard axle and medium stiffness for the entire range. This axle is also what each chassis comes standard with from the factory.

Which is the best axle to use when? Generally the consensus is that a softer axle (Type U) will free the chassis letting it operate more freely around the track. This may be true in some instances but typically not with the OTK material. Typically it is recommended to use a harder axle (Type H or HH) when the grip levels increase. Softer axles are recommended more for use when the grip levels are low. Why is this true? This holds true mainly due to the fact the chassis are made of soft 30mm tubular steel. With a soft chassis and a softer axle you will essential create the tire to create “Side Bite” or the sidewall of the tire to rollover. This will cause the chassis to ‘Hop’ and therefore lose its effectiveness throughout the race. Keep with the ‘N’ axle; we use this axle 80% of the time and as the grip level increase the ‘H’ will work for your needs. Remember that the axle doesn’t simply work outside the chassis, it also creates balance between the frame rails, and therefore, increased stiffness on your axle selection will give the chassis more balance as well.

[Jim Stine]

Bump

[Jim Stine]

Brandon,

Get in contact with the Senior members at your local kart club, they will steer you in the right direction regarding the popular classes and what would suit your experience level best, as well as which chassis are fast, supported, and readily availalbe in your area.

http://www.woodbridgekartclub.com/index.php?option=com_contact&view=category&Itemid=3

[Jim Stine]

We have a lot of people from Ohio that club race with us at NCMP. Guess it depends on where you are in Ohio.

[Jim Stine]

What are you going to race in 2015? Yamaha

Why? http://kart360.com/features/back-to-basics

Are you going national racing, or regional racing? Regional

 

[Jim Stine]

price lowered

[Jim Stine]

[Jim Stine]

I was listening to bookies call in on Colin Cowherd’s radio show. They pegged ND State and SF Austin for wins. Why didn’t I listen to them? haha. At least I’ve still got my elite8…

[Jim Stine]

[quote quote=23085]Anyone have a PDF or link handy? Thanks!!! [/quote]

http://api.ning.com/files/ECapeI07GToU57K0FRn40GFgtN*z5rBvwZYHR*NWPOay3FUt*sqOSTOipiu-le7cybKJ3KYqqyacIpqKY0O-OsK1hfe0XKJr/Kosmic_Knowledge.pdf

This is the best general guide I have found. If you need more specific info I would honestly just call one of the OTK dealers that runs an active race team; they will help you.

[Jim Stine]

Yes, it will be a big class, and a competitive class. Don’t let the term “entry-level” fool you. There are some very good and very experienced drivers in the Clone/LO class at NCMP.

[Jim Stine]

[quote quote=21080]I don’t want to sound mean but if you were competitive enough for any of this stuff to make a difference you wouldn’t be asking these questions. [/quote]

I’m not new to karting, just to inboard drive 4-cycles. The only question I’ve asked is: will this physically fit without frame modification? Which I got my answer to. :)

[quote quote=21093]Yes it should fit without any modifications to frame or struts. Just get a Burris or black rhink motor mount. They have nearly infinite adjustment for any clearance issues. I just talked to someone that tested a 206 on a new FA and arrow x3 kart without issue[/quote]

Excellent, that’s what I was hoping to hear. Another confirmation that it will be no problem.

Now I just have to decide if I really want to leave my friends in Yamaha where I’m already a podium regular and move to an entry level class just to save about $1,000/year. That’s a whole other topic though…

[Jim Stine]

[quote quote=21030]Why not get the Burris 4-cycle jackshaft and run the sprocket outboard like the chassis expects? :) BMI and Buller also make other 2-cycle jackshafts that will work with the proper adapter plate for the engine….Also makes chain and 1 piece gear changes easier. Hope that helps… Regards, Ted [/quote]

I considered that but the potential power loss worries me in such a low HP class. Probably insignificant, but there’s 2 extra sprockets, an extra chain, 2 bearings, and a shaft that all have the potential to be parasitic to power. Having said that, I tend to over think everything…

[Jim Stine]

Thanks for the help all. I talked to someone that has done what I’m trying to do and said it’s possible without modification. I’ll share any specifics I come across for the sake of others.

[Jim Stine]

[quote quote=20800]I’ve got an 07 Kosmic with a 206 on right now. You will need to move the seat strut on the right and probably the rear cross member but its well worth it. Our Kosmic out handles anything on the track.[/quote]

Hmm that’s not good. I don’t want to get into any frame modification.

[Jim Stine]

Bump for price drop. Make me an offer. Don’t need it sitting in the garage all winter.

[Author]

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