[Steve Libretto]

Thanks for the video, Rod

thanks for the info Walt, I was waiting for your input!

[Steve Libretto]

I put these on my chassis recently and I’m very happy with them. I found out the hard way that you have to install them all facing the same direction! Does anyone have a trick to easily release the collet without having to give the axle a shunt with a dead blow hammer?

[Steve Libretto]

How much for the carb parts? Tubes, needles, jets etc.

[Steve Libretto]

Make sure to check the ground wire. If the gound wire has loosened up, it could cause this. I’m not sure of the technicality behind why, but I had the same EXACT issue with a leopard, and all it ended up being was a loose ground wire.

[Steve Libretto]

Trace,

as Walt said, dropping to a lower hole on the pedal will give you more leverage. But I would recommend not lowering the rod on the caliper end….leave it in the top hole there. Have you run in the rain at all? Or somehow got a lubricant on the pad or the disk? The last time I didn’t like the way my pedal fealt, I pulled the pads, and scuffed the surface ever so slightly on a VERY flat surface with emery paper, and then wire wheeled the rotors lightly just enough to clean off any glazing, and it helped tremendously. Some people may say nit to do this but it helped me.

[Steve Libretto]

Trace, what type of feel are you looking for? When you say you went to the middle hole on the pedal, was it at the bottom or top previously? Where is the rod connected on the master? The arm in the master often has two holes to attach the brake rod. The top hole giving more leverage to get more master cylinder pressure with the same pedal pressure, but you’ll have more pedal travel. How much pad is left? It may be time for new pads altogether.

[Steve Libretto]

Those are the pad return springs/bolts. They  must stay tight to ensure the pad is retracted from the rotor, after releasing the Brake. The only way to adjust is to shim on that style caliper.

[Steve Libretto]

The bottom end of the rod didn’t seem like it was blue. But I’ll let you know for sure when I have the case halves split. It could just be that it’s blue only right around the bearing and I’m not seeing it. I’m leaning towards thinking that the crank was poorly rebuilt. I was trying to save money, as I’m on a budget that should not be in karting but I love it too much to stop. I had a “guy” from a motorcycle shop rebuild it.  I’ll never ever do that again. I was just under the impression that if you have the tooling to separate the crank and rebuild it, it must be fairly universal in method. Please don’t crucify me for that choice, I’ve already paid the price.

[Steve Libretto]

Update…

I pulled the had nod cylinder so far. There are mangle shards of metal that appear to be thrust washer, that are located just under the reed cage. The bottom rod bearing definitely failed. The rod hit the fwd part of the opening between the case halves (not sure how big a deal that is as far as if the case is ok?). Can anyone tell me what could make the lower rod bearing fail after a fresh rebuild? Or what could cause the thrust washers to fail?

Thanks

steve

 

[Steve Libretto]

Hi guys,

I’m down in Sebring, FL for a car event, and didn’t have the time to tear down my engine before leaving. As soon as I get back, I’ll post a picture (if I can figure out how to)

Glenn, thanks for the input, it definately hit the head, I can see the imprint on the piston of where it contacted the part of the head that recesses inside the bore.

steve

[Steve Libretto]

Steen, thanks for the response. The piston definitely hit the head, you can see the imprint on the piston of the part of the head that sits down inside the cylinder bore.

[Steve Libretto]

I would love to do shenandoah again. That track was an awesome track for a shifter.  I know we have a challenge race that weekend at Mont Tremblant, but I might just have to skip that one

[Steve Libretto]

[quote quote=16620]Throw rain into the mix… After 3 days of seeing how the best drivers in the world in just about all classes and ages approach corners in the wet you would think it was magic. There was different entry speeds, turn in points and lines through the corners but most of the time they end up at the track out point excactly the same. Awesome to watch. [/quote]

+1

I’ve wanted  to go see the Super Nats for years, and finally got there this year. It was amazing watching the racing in all classes both wet and dry. Awesome seeing the different lines in the wet vs dry, and also the varying lines used in different classes. Some GREAT racing going on throughout the event. It was certainly the best of the best out there!

[Steve Libretto]

I totally agree… I’ve raced indoor tracks across the country, including…
Aj’s -buffalo, ny
Mid Atlantic GP, Delaware
Lehigh valley GP, Allentown, PA
GPNY, Mt Kisko, NY
V17, in NJ
Fast track, Indiana
Victory lane, Charlotte, NC
American indoor, Virginia beach, VA
Extreme, Ft Lauderdale, FL
Albequerque indoor, NM
Phoenix AZ (can’t remember the name, but before it was K1)
Fast Lap, Las Vegas, NV
Pole position, Las Vegas
K1 Speed, Irvine, CA

And none compare to the operation of On Track Karting. OTK has the best maintained karts, and facility, and the best staff running the racing. Most other tracks, don’t even pay attention to what’s going on while a heat is out on the track. I HIGHLY recommend a visit to anyone interested in indoor karting…. I drive 3 hours to get to either of On Tracks locations, and it’s well worth it!!

Steve

[Steve Libretto]

Chris, what exactly did you snap? Is it the cassette, or the bearing hanger on the frame? And where did you snap it? Take a picture and post it so we can offer suggestions on repair.

Steve

[Steve Libretto]

Lead shot in the frame is a very bad idea as far as handling. The weight will transfer way to much under acceleration, braking & cornering. I’d bet that anyone who has tried this has realized it’s a bad idea. The only way you could POSSIBLY get it to work, would be to use a two part foam to plug the frame both before and after inserting the shot, effectively packing the weight in, and not allowing it to move at all. But it’s going to be a hell of a time removing it. Lastly, I’ve always felt its best to mount weight somewhere within the envelope of between the front and rear wheels. The torque that the weight would have could also really cause serious handling problems IMHO.

[Steve Libretto]

Ribs are the most likely to get hurt…. Broken, bruised, cracked. Get a good rib vest!!!

[Steve Libretto]

Walt, my best guess is that the pads are about 1/2 life. They are still the set that I bought the kart with. Is the groove that is in the pad a good indicator of when they’re done? I could measure what’s left with a caliper, but I don’t know what the thickness of a new pad is to compare. Thanks for all the input And help Walt

[Steve Libretto]

I think I may have found a contributing problem…. The caps on the master cylinders have a minuscule hairline crack on the back side lip of the cap where the vent is. I’m it sure if this would cause the issue I’m having, but maybe the caps aren’t sealing properly all the way around since they are obviously no longer perfectly flat?

[Steve Libretto]

Walt, almost forgot the o-ring between halves but noticed as I was putting them back together…. I never closed the bleeder prior to going full pedal, but I’ll re-bleed them and do that. I had been using castrol GTLMA, because it was recommended to me by a popular online retailer, but was recently told to on use Dot4 so after the rebuild, I drained all, and used dot4

[Steve Libretto]

Brian,
I do have the flat tops on the masters. If I bleed them reverse…. Does the pedal need to be held in the fwd position, or just leave the masters alone? I’m guessing that ill have to empty remove some fluid from the master as I go also?

Walt,
I don’t believe there are dumb questions…. It is to the best of my knowledge a Ven05 rotor. It is the wider if the 2 different widths that I’ve seen.

As I said….this is a new issue, these brakes were flawless till now. After rebuilding the caliper it doesn’t seem as bad but the one piston does still suck back in a bit. It’s most noticeable while bleeding… When I pump, then hold, and open the bleed screw, then close bleed screw and relapse the pedal the one piston sucks back in about 3/8″

[Steve Libretto]

Thanks for the suggestion Chris, there was/is enough fluid, and the rotor seems to be centered. The problem is that with those brakes, there are no return springs on the pads, and the pistons should just release the pressure from the pads, and remain “out” by the pad, but what’s happening to here is that the outboard piston is retracting back into the caliper by 1/4 to 3/8″. The other side (inboard) regales properly but doesn’t retract back into the caliper. It’s really strange and I can’t figure it out. I may try to vacuum bleed them tonight, maybe I boiled the fluid and there’s trapped air in there, but I did bleed them out regularly last night with no success. I’ll keep the thread posted if I figure it out… If there are other thoughts or ideas, I’d be glad to try them!

[Steve Libretto]

Scot, I’ll check the outer pilot jet, but also going to check the top of the plug, since I had changed to. Brand new plug prior to the session I had the issue. I’ll keep you posted, thanks for the suggestions!!

[Steve Libretto]

Hi Scot,
It is a new problem, but conditions were different also… The race was in the wet… It had just stopped raining 5 minutes before. I did turn my air box around to help prevent direct water ingestion into the carb.

It wasn’t on every corner, but almost every corner….. The longer the decelleration zone, the more likely this would happen. I it was a short/quick brake zone, then back on the gas, it wouldn’t happen

[Steve Libretto]

[quote quote=5342]Hello Steve,

Check your pilots for a clogged jet. Check your float heights. Check the internal fuel filter.

Also, before you go on a wild goose chase for jetting, what RPM”s does this problem start to happen?

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[/quote]

When you say pilots, what exactly am I checking? I know nothing about these carbs at all. Same for float heights…. What should they be, and how do you check/adjust them. Is there something I can read to learn about the carb in general….

As far as what the RPMs were when this would happen, I’m really not sure exactly, but it was definitely in the power band…. It wasn’t as if I was getting a Slow or sluggish response, it was literally as if there was no ignition of fuel, until about a second after my foot had been on the throttle.

[Author]

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