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November 23, 2019 at 8:15 am in reply to: (SOLD) 2013 OTK Kosmic Mercury with KT100 engine – $1,499 #105340Robbie NelsonParticipantNovember 23, 2019 at 8:14 am in reply to: (SOLD) 2013 OTK Kosmic Mercury with KT100 engine – $1,499 #105339Robbie NelsonParticipantNovember 23, 2019 at 8:14 am in reply to: (SOLD) 2013 OTK Kosmic Mercury with KT100 engine – $1,499 #105338Robbie NelsonParticipantNovember 23, 2019 at 8:13 am in reply to: (SOLD) 2013 OTK Kosmic Mercury with KT100 engine – $1,499 #105337Robbie NelsonParticipantNovember 23, 2019 at 8:13 am in reply to: (SOLD) 2013 OTK Kosmic Mercury with KT100 engine – $1,499 #105336Robbie NelsonParticipantNovember 23, 2019 at 8:12 am in reply to: (SOLD) 2013 OTK Kosmic Mercury with KT100 engine – $1,499 #105335Robbie NelsonParticipantRobbie NelsonParticipant
[quote quote=31284](as they were in the email that the national office sent out a few days ago)[/quote]
Can you elaborate? PM me if you would prefer. I’m a concerned JB parent.
Robbie NelsonParticipant[quote quote=23936]Since we’re running the slide restrictor to about 1/2 throttle, I believe a needle clip position would help quite a bit. Thoughts?[/quote]
Nobody has any input on this?
[quote quote=23936]Something is making a banging noise during launch and you can see the chain jumping around. The kids both said that it made noises when you got on and off the throttle. I think this is a symptom of the clutch needing broke in. Perhaps a lapping day is in order?
[/quote]I believe the banging noise is/was due to an misaligned chain/sprockets.
How much slack should the chain have?
Robbie NelsonParticipantToday I learned that the choke works opposite of how I thought it worked. I’m pretty sure we’ve been running it with the choke on. I thought it was running rough due to jetting and 30 degree temperatures. Guess I was wrong. Runs and idles much better with the choke off. Lesson learned…
Robbie NelsonParticipant[quote quote=24084]Pic not working.[/quote]
Check it now…
Robbie NelsonParticipantCorrect installation or not?
Robbie NelsonParticipantCan anyone recommend a battery and mounting method? I can’t find any rules regarding battery type/size/mounting.
Robbie NelsonParticipantFirst autocross report:
It was very cold and threatening to rain/snow. Which makes for a miserable day.
I believe the cold weather (high 30s) was affecting the carb jetting. At high RPM and full throttle, the engine seemed to break up a bit. Since I didn’t have a jet kit, I didn’t think I could make any adjustments. However, in hind sight I think I could have. Since we’re running the slide restrictor to about 1/2 throttle, I believe a needle clip position would help quite a bit. Thoughts?
Something is making a banging noise during launch and you can see the chain jumping around. The kids both said that it made noises when you got on and off the throttle. I think this is a symptom of the clutch needing broke in. Perhaps a lapping day is in order?
Robbie NelsonParticipant[quote quote=23659]Only Royal Purple for me now. [/quote]
I run Mobil1 10W40 High Mileage. I tried a Valvoline 10W40 non-synthetic. I missed shifts quite frequently with it. Mobil1 seems to work well. Anyone else running motor oil?
Back on subject… I had a stubborn clutch for several years and couldn’t figure out why. I eventually found that the actuator rod that goes through the engine was short by maybe half a centimeter. I have no idea why it was short. Did a previous owner modify it? Was it from the wrong model year? Was it worn? Regardless, I replaced it with a proper length rod and it’s buttery smooth now.
Robbie NelsonParticipantI’ve always used OE (original equipment / stock) springs. Seems to work fine for me on grid and on course. Can you expand on your smoothness question? Why type of fluid are you using in the gear case? No binding in the cable?
Robbie NelsonParticipantVideo tutorial added to first post
Robbie NelsonParticipantHere’s the response from Briggs and Stratton:
Robbie,
We appreciate the e-mail and you have done NOTHING wrong with your installation. Noram, who makes this clutch made a change to the thickness of the hub without notifying us. This change impacts the fastener engagement so you are spot on in your findings. We have a bulletin out to our dealers and have updated all of our inventories with a longer bolt to adjust for this manufacturing change. It sounds like we need to help you out and we would be more than happy to send you a new fastener kit.
Please drop me your mailing address – BriggsRacing@basco.com
If you could, also give me an idea of how soon you plan on using the engine. I will make sure we get this to you in that timeframe.
Sorry for your inconvenience.
Robbie NelsonParticipantI ran into a problem last night. The bolt that holds the clutch on only seems to catch one turn worth of thread. What gives?
Note: I’m installing with the sprocket inboard.
To make sure I’m installing it right, here’s my install steps:
– Flip clutch pack (remove clip; remove inner cartridge; remove screws; flip clutch pack; reassemble)
– install radius washer with radius inboard
– install clutch w/ sprocket inboard
– install flat washer
– install bellville washer w/ hump outboard
– install boltI never tightened the bolt, because I felt like it would strip the first thread of the bolt or crank.
I’ve asked about this on the Briggs forum. But I thought I’d ask here in case anyone else has similar experience and for future reference.
Robbie NelsonParticipantFor gearing / speed calculations, what max RPMs should I use?
KT100 – 14,000?
WF – 7,100?Was running a 67 and 9 gear on the KT100….
Robbie NelsonParticipantRegarding the clutch… Does it matter if I run the drive sprocket inboard or outboard? I read somewhere that it comes setup for outboard. If it run it inboard, do I need to change anything internal? I read somewhere that you have to flip springs or some such.
I’d hate to give bad info in the video.
Robbie NelsonParticipantUpdate:
The KT100 is off the chassis. Now it’s time to get the WF mounted.
Note: This isn’t really hard work, but I’m making a video of the change. So it’s taking a bit longer.
Robbie NelsonParticipant[quote quote=16477]Hmmm… So, if I just simply swap the carb slides, one of the kids is going to be at a disadvantage. That sucks. I hadn’t considered that. Argh…. My daughter turns 12 in May, so she can run JB until then. I need to research that age/class rule again.[/quote]
I looked in the 2013 solo rule book and the age / class change rule isn’t very clear. Can someone point me to the official rule on this?
There seems to have been some movement as seen here, but it seemed to be something on facebook..?? http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=116291&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Robbie NelsonParticipant[quote quote=15980]As for gearing ratios, I gear it between 17/73 and 17/65 for JB (#219 chain). Next season he moves up to JA and I’m getting a 19T clutch sprocket so he can get up to higher speeds with the same axle sprockets.[/quote]
Hmmm… So, if I just simply swap the carb slides, one of the kids is going to be at a disadvantage. That sucks. I hadn’t considered that. Argh…. My daughter turns 12 in May, so she can run JB until then. I need to research that age/class rule again.
As far as sticking with #35 (what’s on the KT100 now) or switching to #219.
#219
Chain $30
Drive sprockets come with the World Formula
Axle sprocket set $100
Total $130#35
Use chain I have
Drive sprocket set $45
Axle sprocket set $90
Total $135Note: These are approximate values on economy units.
So, it’s close to a wash. I’m going to go with a new #219 setup.
Robbie NelsonParticipantHope this isn’t a dumb question… 219 or 35 chain?
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