[Mike Clark]

Check the rule book for the class and tracks you intend to race on.

[Mike Clark]

I know of 1 guy that used these and liked them. Everyone else just runs stock as far as I know in the DD2 class.

http://frixa.org/race-products

there are 2 compounds depending on ambient temperature. They have a disc also.

[Mike Clark]

John,

I don’t have my software up and running. I did receive a password yesterday. Now that we have re-established communication I feel it will be resolved.

Thanks again,

Mike Clark

[Mike Clark]

Brian,

I think choke jet = start jet. I see 60 as the only option.

Idle jets stamped 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 and 60 only are legal to be used. It is not mandatory that idle jet and idle emulsion tube show the same size.

Idle emulsion tube stamped 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 and 60 are legal to be used.
It is not mandatory that idle emulsion tube and idle jet show the same size.

[Mike Clark]

[quote quote=26578]Tony Has this been sorted out yet ? [/quote]

Mr. John,

I just replied to the PM you sent. Looking forward to getting this sorted out and moving forward.

Thank you,

Mike Clark

[Mike Clark]

Tony,

No sir, not yet. Out of our karting team we have 3 business owners and a 10 yr old. So 75% of us understand the trials of running a business. I also have the patience of a vulture. Zero contact from them. That is odd because before purchasing they took the time to answer my questions. I am going to try having a friend email them to see of they get a response.

My hopes are it will resolved within a week &  somehow I just happen to be the one guy that slipped through the cracks.

Everything was going fine until I got this on the 15th:<span><span style=”font-family: Arial;”>
You may be aware of the recent coverage in the press concerning the ‘Heartbleed Bug’ which compromises security software. No such vulnerability exists on own systems. Our hosting company however, although certain that they had no vulnerability decided to ‘patch’ and re-established the servers we use for our website and email services during a scheduled upgrade to the hardware. This operation has caused some disruption to our normal communications but is now complete.

We apologise for any inconvenience or concern that this may have caused. As a result of these processes, we have a backlog of emails and activations on which, we are working hard to complete. If you are awaiting a response to an activation, these will be completed by this evening. If you are awaiting a response to an email or enquiry, we will reply as quickly as possible<span> <span>and we hope to have the backlog cleared by <span>tonight</span>.</span> </span>

Please be assured that we do not hold any personal information of our customers or website visitors on-line or on our servers other than your email address and, if you are registered for our customer pages, the password that you registered with.  All our financial transactions are processed by PayPal, not on our servers – we never see or process any financial information from our customers. In line with industry recommendations regarding the ‘Heartbleed Bug’, we would advise that you change all your important passwords.

For further information, the following links may be of help:

About the ‘Heartbleed Bug’:

http://www.cnet.com/uk/news/<wbr />heartbleed-bug-what-you-need-<wbr />to-know-faq/

PayPal  (www.<span>p</span>aypal.com):

https://www.paypal-community.<wbr />com/t5/PayPal-Forward/OpenSSL-<wbr />Heartbleed-Bug-PayPal-Account-<wbr />Holders-are-Secure/ba-p/<wbr />797568?profile.language=en#

Should you have any questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Regards,

Phil<span class=”HOEnZb”><span style=”color: #888888;”>
</span></span></span></span>

 

[Mike Clark]

Tony,

Thanks for the reply.

I sent in the keycode on April 14th.

I have checked my email spam/junk folders and am aware of the 6 hr difference etc.

My last personalized email from Colin was on April 2nd. I received a “Service Disruption” email on April 15th and have not gotten any response to any of my emails since. I feel not hearing from them is not characteristic of how they were prior to the 15th. We did have Easter in there. I don’t know if they are on vacation, at a big race, ill or whatever. I did call and leave a voice message just in case my emails are blocked on their end. I also sent a PM here to John. He has not been on here since.

They are obviously a legitimate company that is capable of providing a quality product. I am giving them the benefit of the doubt and hope to have the software installed and working soon. I am at a loss for an explanation on why it hasn’t happened yet. I am keeping my faith in them though.

Thanks,

Mike Clark

[Mike Clark]

I have a rebuilt one. New 1/2 crank on the output side. The only time on it is I had the builder dyno it. Other than that is has not been unpacked. RIBW – Rebuilt In Bubble Wrap.

Have 2 others also 1 is OK and the other would need a cylinder soon.

Mike Clark

mikeclarkengraver@gmail.com if you want to pursue it & get all the details.

[Mike Clark]

Dustin,

I will add to what Tony said.

Check that your brake tether allows full travel. We had one that would prevent the brake from fully operating. Make sure your throttle returns and doesn’t bind. Wheels falling off – don’t be that guy. The center of the front hub should be clipped or safety wired. My policy when working on someones kart is they final tighten all wheel fasteners.

Check to see if your track has a rookie orientation. Don’t be afraid t let the other drivers know you are the rookie. Worst case is you will know something of there attitude and more than likely they will give you good advice.

Read the track rules. Know the flagging and procedures of the track you are on.

Make sure you enter the track at pit out and are going in the right direction. It happens. Raise hand before slowing off pace, exiting track or when you have spun, are sitting still or reentering track. If you do have to get out of the kart try to keep it between you and oncoming traffic. If you get tired get off and take a break. It is better to be too slow and build speed than to go too fast and have a short day. Look ahead! You probably can’t look too far ahead. If you find corners coming up too fast that can be a sign you need a break.

Watch your hydration and don’t forget to eat. I like to pack my gear in a modular fashion. Anything you can do at home before you head out to the track should be done ahead.

Make sure you have your emergency contact info available just in case anything happens.

Best of luck to you and enjoy your outing.

[Mike Clark]

TJ,

I never thought about just putting weight on the tank.

Thanks for always being helpful

[Mike Clark]

Mr. Bob,

I still need to read all the previous posts. I admire the project. Thanks for posting.

Steve O’Hara

Regarding Pro Mazda: This past Saturday my wife & I went catch the Pro Mazdas @ Nola MSP. We were out of the house about an hour to see 1 race and the weather was perfect. If there were 15 spectators that was about it. It appeared everyone else was closely associated with a team. Of course it was the winter series and not advertised locally. Next time I know they are coming I will put the word out.

[Mike Clark]

I can’t say one is better than another in a crash. Most drivers here use the EVS. It does not block off air into the helmet like the old foam collars. I think 98% of the drivers here are fairly new and EVS was what was available in the kart shop. Neck braces are mainly required in the US and are now optional for adults here locally. That said I don’t think many drivers will go without one.

[Mike Clark]

I have never seen a brand specified only ‘Engine oil SAE 15W-40’ and 150 CC. Same oil goes on a few other parts.

[Mike Clark]

Jim,
I will do that.
Thanks

[Mike Clark]

The only thing I have heard negative (from 1 person) is it eats the battery in the mychron. Is that true?

I’d swap out a 9v battery for good info anytime.

[Mike Clark]

Yesterday I started going through two DD2’s that were from the world finals. I pulled the carbs and cleaned them. One had a 175 main jet and the other had a 202. One had the slide set to where it was closed at idle (no daylight) and the other showed about .040 to .062″ of an opening. I am assuming both were in as ran setup as they exited track from the final.

They seem like they were setup vastly different. I have not checked the gearing that is in the karts but based on what I have out of the karts I can assume one is a 36/61 and the other a 37/60.

I still need to look at some front end settings and brake bias. Rear hubs were off.  One had front hubs all the way in and the other all the way out, but I think they were disturbed. A lot of stuff was off the kart. Rear bumber, radiator, pipe, seats, steering wheels and even some brackets were off.

Main point is that on a world finals level there seemed to be a big jump between two carb setups.

[Mike Clark]

Thor,

Not very detailed but, see pg 35 of this:

http://www.rotax-kart.com/upload/files/71.pdf

More downloads here:

http://www.rotax-kart.com/en/Products/MAX-Engines/2-125-MICRO-MAX

At least it seems to be a very lightly stressed engine.

[Mike Clark]

Dustin,

I am pretty new to all of this so take it with that in mind. We bought a Scribner jug so it would not be confused with the regular gas can. It has a hose and is square. Part of choosing that brand was you can get replacement parts. Clear jugs are not best for storing fuel if sun light hits them.

You can get a normal fuel jug pretty cheap. One approach is to get two smaller 2.5 gal fuel jugs as they are lighter and you can buy less at once. You can of course buy the bigger jug and fill it less and still have the option to have 5 gallons if needed.

1. Are there any nifty things out there that make mixing gas and oil easier?

Going metric can help for some ratios. Getting a ratio-rite is not a bad thing. Either way making a chart for you ratio will help prevent math errors.

2. For storing your fuel do you have one container that is strictly just for gasoline, and another separate container for oil/gas mixture?

Trying not to store fuel is best. We try never buy and mix more than we are going to use. There is a pump for the spec gas required at the track in our case.

Although we never have fuel issues we are going to step up the care we take in 2014. That includes filtration out of the pump as part of trying to maintain the cleanest possible fuel supply.

[Mike Clark]

Ambrose,

I am curious as to how working with the software went. We are about to buy the software as soon as we receive the Rotaxs. Did you go with the Jet-Tech weather station? We are also going to use a fuel test kit (non Jet-Tech) provided by a team member.

Thanks,

Mike

[Mike Clark]

I wear my rib protector underneath my suit. My brother wears his outside. Mine is a Ribtec  “soft” and his has the hard outer plates. I see people do it both ways. One argument for under it is less likely to get hooked up on something in a crash. Tee shirt – rib protector – suit is what I do.

[Mike Clark]

http://www.pslkarting.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=469_470&products_id=4379

The guys at PSL are top notch.

[Mike Clark]

Try cooking oil. It works on many things and is gentle on your hands. Latex paint is a good example. I removed burnt pine sap from my hands with french fries – the oil in them did it.

My hands stain easily too.

[Mike Clark]

Paul,

Already it seems you are saying use the inside but lift or slip the inside. That sounds like a contradiction.

 

[Mike Clark]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96kwILL35ig

[Mike Clark]

<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>Awesome post. This is a gem for me being so new to karting. I am at that point where I sort of get how to drive a kart but not 100%. I wish I had read it before ever getting into a kart.</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>TJ Koyen wrote:</div>
There’s no room for “magic” between deceleration and acceleration. You should be on the throttle as soon as you’re done braking in nearly every instance of corner. If you’re coasting, you’re slowing down. If you’re slowing down, you have to add wheel input to tighten the turning radius and maintain the same load on the outside tires. If you start losing load on the outside tires, you’re not only not using all the grip and going as fast as you can through the corner, but you’re allowing the inside rear to set down and you’re going to kill your exit speed two-fold. Also note, in sprint karting, you really only turn the wheel for a very short period of time. Just long enough on turn-in to get the inside rear to jack up. From there you should be straightening the wheel to roll off the corner and allow the lift of the inside rear wheel and the “spring” you’ve loaded in the frame to carry the kart off the corner.

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>T.J. Koyen
OKTANE VISUAL – Custom Helmet Paint & Graphic Design
http://www.oktanevisual.com
————————–
DB Motorsports
Exprit/Leopard</div>

[Author]

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