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Jim WhiteParticipant
Hey Jim,
Not sure if you know but the announcer is the post just above you :-)
Jim WhiteParticipantAre you sure your aren’t running it too tight? Guys can run a 30 minute roadrace and not have issues.
Jim WhiteParticipantWell going direct to KFP magnum pads is not really an alternative. I was quoted more than double what Pierre charged for them. I asked about a discount for multiple sets and got no real answer. While I really like the pads I don’t like them for that kid of $$$$$. Crazy. Looks like it’s time to find some EBC pads for my superkart.
Jim WhiteParticipantI’ve found the company he got them from. I just liked dealing with him because he knew what you wanted for a kart. The company makes them for all kinds of cars and aren’t as “kart” oriented. I guess I’ll just deal with them direct. Lot’s of the 250 guys on the west coast used his pads. Might be time to see about being a distributor or something.
Jim WhiteParticipantAre you running the rack and pinion steering? If not are you talking about the bearing at the bottom of the shaft or the plastic bushing at the top of column that bolts to the upright?
If it’s that upper bushing you may be able to turn it upside down if it will clear the shifter boss. Another option is a block of aluminum bored for the shaft and then cross drilled to get it as low as possible. Lots of American karts used the block setup back in the day.
How tall are you? If you have the bushing in the lowest hole and it’s still to high what about working with the seat instead?Jim WhiteParticipantYes oilers are legal. IKF does have a size limit though. Don’t know what it is off the top of my head. Comet kart sales or Russell’s ought to have one. For your world formula a good lube and keeping the chain clean is probably sufficient. Did either of the other w/f guys run one? Both Abbas and Letterman are good guys and I’m sure they would be happy to help you. Mike Schorn or Terry Ives are also good contacts for info on road racing w/f motors out west.
If you send me a pm I can probably hook you up with them.
And yes most of the ones the NCK guys run are home made.
Jim WhiteParticipantA bigger carb may get you a little more top end horsepower it will come at the expense of throttle response. The smaller bore creates a higher velocity through the carb. This higher velocity of air aloows the jets and such to be much more responsive at partial throttle.
Jim WhiteParticipantI ran a yamaha sit up for many years with NCK. Tires will not be an issue for your world formula. You can run several races on a new set. You will find that too much grip in the lower hp classes actually binds it up and slows you down in the corners. You want the kart to be as free as possible to keep the rpm’s up.
Good luck. Most of all have fun and see greens and checkereds.
Jim WhiteParticipantI’m making the trip from NorCal. My IC/E won’t have anything for you guys with the twins but I’m looking to see green and checkered flags with a BIG smile on my face.
November 22, 2014 at 5:07 pm in reply to: What battery should I use for a Yamaha kt100 starter? #37594Jim WhiteParticipantThat will work too. All the companies use many different part numbers but there is a generic group number for them all. You are looking for a group U1.
November 22, 2014 at 3:49 pm in reply to: What battery should I use for a Yamaha kt100 starter? #37586Jim WhiteParticipantInterstate battery part# SP-40 or it’s equivelent.
Batteries are like tires. You get what you pay for.
Compare the cca’s (cold cranking amps). The higher the better.
You might also try at Walmart or Tractor Supply.November 21, 2014 at 7:41 pm in reply to: What battery should I use for a Yamaha kt100 starter? #37533Jim WhiteParticipantIf it’s the self contained model look for an Interstate SP-40. It’s 340 cca which is a little more than the standard lawnmower battery. Be sure you have a good size gauge on the wires connecting it all. While mine is not self contained I use that battery with some longer welding cables. It spins over everything from a yammie to a 250 single with plenty to spare. Maintain it properly and they are good for 2 to 3 years.
Jim WhiteParticipantAnyone know where to find the rules for “open sprint”?
I’ve got the 14 rulebook and I don’t see it listed nor do I see it on the website. Mostly interested in if the wide rear bumper is mandatory since I don’t have one.
Since we are driving 3,000 miles I’m kicking around the idea of bringing the IKF “superstock” kart as well as the 250. After all were spending whats another $100 dollar entry fee in the big picture?Jim WhiteParticipantNow that I’ve been involved enough to have a pretty good understanding of how a lot of this stuff works I found something very interesting today. As I was filling out my Daytona entry I see that all checks are made payable to WKA. That leads me to believe that WKA itself is the promoter of the Daytona event.
The next (if ever) IKF road race national will have to be a joint venture with IKF. The couple clubs left just operate on too thin of a budget to take on that much expense and risk alone. NCK lost lots of $ on the last 2 nationals they hosted. PKA lost a bunch on the last one in Portland in 2013. I don’t see either club doing it again under the current system. It’s financial suicide.
And I do agree with Chris that should it happen again it’s got to be on a well known track to draw any interest. Miller was pretty well supported in year one. Year 2 was nothing more than a big club race. Thats why it hasn’t happened again.Jim WhiteParticipantFor it to happen a club has to take on the entire financial burden of the event. With the cost of track rental what it is most clubs are barely breaking even. Add in the additional IKF costs (Duffys aren’t cheap) and it could easily bankrupt a struggling club. Sure you may get an extra 8 or 10 racers that don’t normally show up but that doesn’t come close to covering the additional costs associated with the event.
Jim WhiteParticipantIt was a great track. Almost like they built it with karts in mind. Very technical but still fast. A real “drivers” track. Yes a little tight for 250’s but for every other class it was truly exceptional.
Looking forward to be able to run there again.Jim WhiteParticipantBrian is spot on. I’ve always posted and enjoyed the old forums. It’s taken me weeks to figure out how to make a post again. I recently switched from IE to Firefox in an attempt to be able to post again. It looks like that worked.
Any of the old school guys who can actually help the younger guys learn probably gave up long before I did.
Spin it anyway you want but the “upgrade” killed the forums.September 25, 2014 at 6:01 pm in reply to: Switching from Castor Blend to Redline Two Cycle Oil #34439Jim WhiteParticipantI’ve run Yamahas for many years. I’ve used castor, synthetic and combinations of the two. I ran the last 8 or 9 years on redline. It’s a good oil. Everybody has their opinion. As for whats in your tank, run it down low and then pour the new redline mix in on top. It will be fine.
Jim WhiteParticipantRubys a hottie. I already gave her my visa number. You guys are all late!
But seriously first time I’ve ever gotten a spam PM from any board. Kinda weird.
Jim WhiteParticipantDennis does have quite a supply of Rotax stuff and is a pretty good guy to deal with too!
Jim WhiteParticipantThe fitting you are talking about is the pulse line for the fuel pump. I run a Dellorto and go straight off the Mikuni round pump to the inlet. Other carbs may vary.
Water wetter is fine.
For the intake boot and clutch part here’s the secret. Search ebay for ATK 250 as this engine was used on ATK dirtbikes here in the states. I know there is a boot and clutch cover there right now. As they have been listed for some time you might want to deal with the them for a better price. It worked for me on the couple items I needed for a spare motor.
These are strong little motors and last well when kept a little rich. Shift gently and take care of the gearbox as gears are expensive and at times hard to find.
Jim WhiteParticipantWalt has it explained pretty well.
As he said just as the clutch locks up you will see a slight drop in rpm’s. I always tried to adjust to get the least possible rpm drop at full engagement. That seemed to be the sweet spot for me.
Jim WhiteParticipantThanks Bill.
Regarding the 3rd session: we called it qualifying but you may not have heard that we instead took each persons fastest time from any session and used that to set the grid.
Jim WhiteParticipantThings went very well. Looking forward to our next two dates with this group.:-)
Jim WhiteParticipantI’d be interested to know how this will effect the parts supply for those running the older IAME Reedjets and such. Those engines are still very popular in road racing. I don’t see the new importers as caring about those older engines.
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