[Dave Holstein]

Don’t go to 40:1, you will stick it.

20:1/24:1  110  using redline is what my race series runs.

Clip is second groove from the bottom.

185 – 195 main

132.5 – 133 pilot

Should get you started in the right direction.

[Dave Holstein]

I had the exact same problem my hands hurt, and I had real bad forearm cramps, I would death grip so tight I would sprain /  injure  my hands and wrists.

Aside from brusing my ribs thinking I didn’t need a rib vest, it was the worst injury I received from karting, jumping right into shifters right off the bat was part to blame.

what I have noticed now that I have just over a full season to reflect on is:

Adjusting your grip thru the course will help immensely.

I noticed that along with gripping the wheel like my life depended on it, I was also tensing up my whole body which will wear you out fast.

Also a good setup, fresh tires, brakes etc. will help, fighting a bad setup or worn/dried out tires will also wear you down.

Try to relax, you will find that as you get better with setup, remembering to breathe, adjusting your grip, etc. you will end up being able to drive fast with a lot less effort eventually, that’s when karting will start to get really fun and extremely addictive!

 

 

[Dave Holstein]

A CR80 will need a billet third gear to be virtually bullet proof.

[Dave Holstein]

I use RedLine motorcycle trans lube with shockproof, makes shifting way smoother.

I would recommend taking the clutch cover off and inspecting the clutch pack, the symptoms you describe doesn’t sound like fluid related to me…

[Dave Holstein]

Also, where can one get the upgraded third gear for the CR80?

[Dave Holstein]

What year were the Speed Concepts SPI ignition boxes discontinued?

[Dave Holstein]

Redline Oil Karting Championship in Sonoma Raceway in California has an 80 class, but 100% of us run CR80 Honda.

[Dave Holstein]

Also I just looked in the mirror after today’s second race of the season and would also suggest SUN BLOCK!

 

[Dave Holstein]

I run 20:1 ratio in the class I’m in so it makes it easy, 2 16oz bottles of oil in 5 gallons for a perfect 20:1 so I’m kinda spoiled in that department.

Yes you will still need a bead breaker, in fact, depending on the brand of tires (and sometimes rims) all you need is a bead breaker, once the bead is broken the tire can be dismounted by hand, again depending on the brand.  My class runs Hoosier which are very easy to mount and unmount by hand, Bridgestone however is a major PITA.  But a tire tool can make life a little simpler.

Carb and brake cleaner is up to you, just choose a quality brand and you will be fine.

Get a good tire gauge, tire pressure is one of the most important tuning items there is, so a good 0 to 30 Psi gauge will be needed, in at least 1/2 psi increments is nice.

as with anything else you will find out by karting itself.

but a short list would be:

Zip ties

Dead blow hammer

Vise Grips

Files

Tin Snips

i could go on and on.

hope this helps some

[Dave Holstein]

That sounds like more than enough travel, remember a shifter engine was originally designed To be shifted with a foot, it will vary slightly with different engines, and it’s a little different on up shift and down shift, but it should be ok with 1 1/4″ travel  at the shift linkage arm.

[Dave Holstein]

50:1 is way to lean on oil.

Stay away from pump gas, too inconsistent.

The class I race in runs 20:1 redline in 110 race fuel and I have never had any problems.

[Dave Holstein]

Does anyone know how to obtain the IKF specs/rules for 80cc?

I have looked at the IKF site so long my eyes burn…

[Dave Holstein]

Its almost completely stripped, I’m actually using stripper from the hardware store, areas around the breaks were baked on a little, then I’m going to wash it with soap and water, then off to powder coat I have decided. I wanted to get it to the point that it will take just a light blasting to clean it off completely without affecting the frame to much, it’s in real good shape.

[Dave Holstein]

I don’t need any heat with this stuff, It will practically come off with nail polish remover. My question originally was somewhat pointless since it was really before I started and I really didn’t know just how easy this stuff comes off. It goes right down to the metal right now with brake carb / cleaner, you can almost hose it off after putting stripper on it.

[Dave Holstein]

I got my feet wet this year on an 80, the class is really competitive but I have learned a lot so far.

I have no regrets, glad I made the leap, finding a virtually race ready setup for 500 clams helped

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