[Gary Lawson]

I’ve done it before. Measured them with clippers then used two big crescent wrenches to bend them one at a time. .010-.020″ will change a couple millimeters on the sniper.

[Gary Lawson]

He was tryng to cross underneath the guy in front of him and the guy pinched him into the curb so he lifted and your son got into him. Definitely did not look intentional.

[Gary Lawson]

I remember a brisk plug that was like that. Really expensive and then needed an even more expensive boot. Made zero difference when we put it in

[Gary Lawson]

I do not recommend moving the right strut. They a gusset support for reinforcement and at place in that exact location for engine clearance purposes.

[Gary Lawson]

I prefer to use a 5# deadblow hammer. I’ve also used an axle but it does leverage the weld a little more from what I’ve seen. When you have to move the strut more than an inch you can expect the paint to crack but I’ve moved some almost 2″ without issue.

[Gary Lawson]

For 206 at most tracks 15-19 will have you covered. I would not go smaller than 57 or bigger than 62. If you get out of that range you need to change the front and start over. This will allow you to keep engine spacing consistent and not make it necessary to cut or lengthen your chain.

[Gary Lawson]

Comet has some oem tie rods still and also replacement rods from kart master or wild kart. Just call and provide length and what color you desire.

[Gary Lawson]

That could be the case. Glad he’s ok. Surprised it didn’t bend the C from impact. Must have been nearly head on.

[Gary Lawson]

Not sure why the wheelbase would be shorter on both sides if they are the same kart. But yes, you likely be lacking speed with the wheelbase being different on each side. The kart will want to pull to the shorter side pretty hard toward the end of the straight and cause considerable drag. Any kart that is bent more than 5-10mm after a wreck should definitely be checked for squareness. 30mm must have been one heck of a hit. Good thinking to check that.

[Gary Lawson]

I would go for closer to 44/56 front/rear percentage. You will want to fill the left side of the seat up with lead first for sure if you have a smaller driver. Don’t offset the seat too much to the left of you decide to move it. The center of gravity needs to be towards the center of the kart. Let me exaggerate to prove a point. You could mount the seat 6 inches further left and then mount all the weight on the right side of the kart bolted to the frame and the percentages will be “correct” but do you think it will handle well?

[Gary Lawson]

I use the mychron 4 with Gps addition. The mychron 5 coming out soon has in integrated.

Rev limiter 3/4 to 7/8 down the longest straight is a good starting point. Depending on how tight or open some corners are will make you run on it a lot more or barely at all.

[Gary Lawson]

For a 206 I monitor lap times and that’s it. Since you will always be in the rev limiter at least a little there’s no point in checking the rpm. I use gps to monitor corner speed and top speed to consider gear changes.

[Gary Lawson]

Yamaha can should be around 14000 as a starting point. You need to know for sure what rpm you are going. It’s the first thing you should have changed after your first session on track of it was too high. Ask questions next time. Most would be happy to help.

[Gary Lawson]

Agree looks like shockwaves

[Gary Lawson]

Knipex side cutters are the best I’ve ever used. Can cut thick brake cables with little effort and doesn’t fray. Otherwise cutting the cable with a torch will leave that little bead on the end or you can use solder on it. I just drill a little hole in the bumper if their isn’t one and run the excess in there.

[Gary Lawson]

They aren’t really close. Basically a 5hp difference. A blueprinted animal without the rev limiter is faster than a Yamaha can though. Much more torque.

[Gary Lawson]

Stickers for sure. Pretty rare they aren’t faster. They come in quicker than older tires.

[Gary Lawson]

I heard 375 which makes sense since it’s the gold cup weight. Yes it’s heavy and they’d gain a few entries probably if they lowered the weight but they would lose some too. Figured I’d just say this in advance 😉. I anticipate it to be the most fun race to watch of the weekend.

[Gary Lawson]

Just depends on manufacturer. Some are above tabs on all. Others are on top in front and bottom of rest. If it fits above without any issue then that’s where I’d run it.

[Gary Lawson]

Walt,
You are right. It is about $$$. 3 entries at national events loses $$$ for the track time they are given. It’s not a conspiracy to get racers to spend money. Some clubs did have increased entries from the pipe and they can continue to run that.

[Gary Lawson]

Look into g force and zamp helmets. They are cheaper brands but I believe they have some lightweight models

[Gary Lawson]

If you have room to move the seat forward an inch or so that’s what you should do. Many times you can move the pedals forward the same amount and remain comfortable. If the seat is as far forward as possible then take your 5# weight and move it to the front. Your side to side is very close as far as seat position. Assuming your camber, toe, stagger, and air pressure are all set then the Rf needs bent down slightly. Probably about an 1/8″ at most. You can get the fronts even and the rear within 5 if you get it perfect.
As mentioned do not move your ride height to change front weight. It won’t do much anyway.

[Gary Lawson]

if you were getting considerably more rpm with everything identical but the motor and it’s getting full throttle then it’s likely carburetion or and internal engine issue like stuck ring.

BUT the first thing I would do is check and make sure the clutch has the right gear on it. It’s a common problem I see all the time when swapping engines and forgetting to make sure it has the same clutch gear. If that’s not it and putting the carb off the previous engine on doesn’t work then send it back to the original builder and tell him it has a severe issue he needs to figure out.

[Gary Lawson]

What kart? Seat style and location is definitely priority #1 when dealing with a larger driver. While you see many successful tall drivers in classes like tag, they all have something in common. They are skinny and don’t have much muscle mass. Even at 6′ plus they are 170# max and a lot of that weight is long legs. They essentially mount their seat in the same position as a 5’8″ 150 driver. What I’m getting at is basically very few think outside of the box in regards to seat mounting. Because of my size you won’t ever see me in a standard seat mounted mounted in the same way as you typically see.

[Gary Lawson]

Standard setting for almost any kart is 1mm out on each side.

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