[Sebastian Sarmiento]

The fuel is fresh, when I first got it I dumped the old fuel, cleaned the tank and poured fresh fuel in it. I also ran a straight fuel line from the tank and double zip tied everything, checked for cracks (no cracks) and still don’t suck any fuel into the pump/carb. I just took the whole thing apart this morning, carb cleaned everything and ordered a rebuild kit.

I’ll keep you posted of the results once I install it.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Hi Tony I did exactly what you are telling me except borrowing a carb, I wish I could, I don’t know anybody around here that has karts and a leopard more specifically.

Thanks to all of you for your responses!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

thanks Matt

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Hi Brian,

I double checked it as one of the first things , the filter is fine because the fuel went thru the filter and then it kind of stopped at the pump and it looked like it was moving back into the tank after that (not all the fuel in the line, but some). I was watching a vid of a guy showing something called pop-off pressure, after it pops-off the pump is supposed to hold certain psi (about 8) I’m starting to think the diaphragm is bad (a new pump rebuild kit should fix it.. I hope).

Thanks for the tip

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

thanks for you inputs,

to answer  Walt, this carbs have one inlet only, they are not like mikuni’s, there’s no way to hook them up wrong, I did zip tied all the joints and also this carbs have a kind of strainer that hold any residues that could come from the tank, in case are too small of a debris for the fuel filter.

I did poured some mixed fuel in the cilynder and it did a couple of explosions like it wanted to start, I guess I’ll take out the carb, clean it and install a pumper kit like Matt said and see what happens.

Hey Matt, all I can find are some Chinese kits, is there any site where I can get a better one or more original brand-like.

Thanks again!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

For the records, I received my engine back from Acceleration Kart Racing (took them 7 calendar days to get it done, reasonable to me) along with a bunch of parts that I ordered and all the replaced parts (that’s always nice).

These guys are GREAT and HONEST, Communication is fantastic and their pricing , (even with shipping back and forth) was way better than my local shop.

Josh Michalovsky (mechanic / tech support) is the person I’ve been dealing with, very nice guy, he even sent me pics of how to hook up a wire that I forgot where it was going!. Can’t ask for more! Thanks to all of you who recommended this shop!!

 

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks guys, I think I’ll be getting the 360 plus device. If I don’t get use to it, at least I won’t lose as much as if I buy the Leatt and don’t like it .

Donnie thanks for sharing your experience with the 360. I’m glad you walked away unharmed and that tells a lot about the device.

Thanks again!.

 

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks Robby,

Order placed with Acceleration Kart Racing, they will receive them in a couple of days, I just had  my DD2 engine rebuilt with them and bought a ton of parts from them too. Those guys are amazing especially Josh Michalosky (mechanic/tech support) which is the person that I’ve been dealing with.

Thanks you ALL for you help and comments!! This site is AWESOME!!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Hi Robby,

Any link on how and where to order it?. I checked the Ribtect site and I don’t seem to find any way to place the order. Any idea when they will start shipping them out?.

Thanks for the info.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Hi Danny,

Thanks for offering your services, as you can see this topic was posted over 20 days ago and the engine has been already rebuilt by acceleration kart racing in Las Vegas, NV. Very nice guys!.

I’ll contact you for the next rebuild.

Thanks again.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Yes Jerry , you are right, I’ve seen chest protection described as mandatory for 5-12 years old. Never as mandatory for adults, but I wanted to check the “real Experiences” of seasoned drivers to get the info from the source.

Regarding what Michael is saying I heard great things about the K1 Carbon Fiber rib vest, but the more I research I realize that 80% of people recommend Ribtech. there’s to be a good reason for it …..

Now Michael opened another door, protection is about the neck brace, what neck brace you guys recommend?. Should I opened another topic for that to leave it as a guide for other novices needing the info?

I’ve seen the 360 plus device, the EVS R4, sparco anatomic 2012 and many others, any recommendations on that?

Thanks again to all of you!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

May be I didn’t get it right… is the FOURTH version that David is mentioning the Ribtech THREE? .Every website I’ve checked  they say is the “new and improved version”, but it advertises the  Ribtech 3. I’m a bit confused.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks to all of you for your help, I’ve been searching for the Ribtech 4, but as David said I’ll have to wait until next month or a bit later. But is it worth to wear chest protection then? How many of you do?. There’s a member selling an Armadillo in excellent condition at a fair price including shipping, I may buy that one until the Ribtech 4 is really available.

Thanks again!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Hi Allan do you still have it? Any pics?

Thanks.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks for the manual Mike!,

I’m posting this link that may help other people in the future when searching the archives.

Steen passed it to me, I’m also attaching the link to a place that carries every screw of Rotax and all OEM fluids.

Info at: http://www.rotax.com.au/technical.htm

Parts:  http://store.nexternal.com/mrp/storefront.aspx

If everyone needs the manual Mike passed me, can send me a message and I’ll e-mail it to you.

Without helping each other we would all go crazy!

Thank you fellows!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks Steen,

I appreciate your help and BTW, I was able to find the XPS gear oil and at a decent price (For being Rotax).

If anyone needs the info let me know.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks to all of you!. I’ll send them the engine and I’ll keep you posted with the results.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks for the info

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

LOL!! you just made me laugh! I guess the guy with the slowest kart just passed everybody while the rest were wheels up on the side of the track and won!! so funny!!.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

thanks Jeff,

I decided not to buy the one I was mentioning before (I’m glad now that I’m reading your post). The guy was kind of flaky, so now I’m looking at a Birel ry30 20011 with 2011 rotax on it with new clutch, air box, etc.

The guy is asking 3500, it was raced 1 day and also has 3 days of practice on it. about 3hrs. on engine, passport on it, serviced by my local shop.

I think I’m going to go for it. It seems more expensive than average at first glance, but these engines are very particular with parts (meaning expensive) and having a 2011 engine with all the updates on it can save a lot of money and headaches.

Thanks for the hands up.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

it doesn’t have the new clutch/air box/coil. Now my question , given that this engine is a 2010 there’s no need to replace the cylinder/piston combo right? (All this questions are regarding the new requirements depending where the kart would race). I know that mechanically speaking doesn’t need it,as I mentioned in my previous comment, it only has 15 hrs. from new, so there should be plenty of life in it.

Forgot to mention before that the Chassis is also 2010.

Thanks for your help.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Hey Rob, I’m looking at  Birel M32 with a 2010 FR125. The guy bought it new and never raced it, only practiced with friends at the track, he says it only has about 15 hrs from new.

He’s asking 2800, what do you think?.

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks Rob! Your explanation clarifies lots of things for me. I’ve always been the kind of person who would rather spend some more, wait a bit longer if necessary, and buy the right staff. I will get an engine with the updates you are mentioning and definitively do more research and learn on the way.

Either if I change my mind and decide to race it or sell it will pay off to have and updated engine.

Now in this website http://www.k1racegear.com/rotax-type-125-max-sr-kart-engine.html it says that if you want the engine only (which , if you already have a Rotax engine, you could still use all your accessories, radiator, houses, etc) the price for the ENGINE ONLY (not the package) $ 1321, which is cheaper than a bottom/top end rebuild (according to these rates http://www.accelerationkarting.com/rotaxrebuildrates.aspx ) is that some kind of trade-in with your engine?. it doesn’t say anything like it on the description.

Thank you all for your help!!

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

where are you located?

[Sebastian Sarmiento]

Thanks for the advice Peter, I’m wonder how much does it cost you in parts/labor to do that maintenance every end of season.

I was looking at this website http://www.accelerationkarting.com/rotaxrebuildrates.aspx on which the pricing doesn’t look bad for a rebuild (top).  I read in this forum that Rotax recommends a top end rebuild every 50hrs? is that true?. that sounds like a lot! comparing to my CR80 or even a 125. which I normally do every 4-5 hrs. (I could wait more, but I don’t like to risk the whole engine just to put a few more hrs. on it).

Thanks again.

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