[James Frantz]

The WF is a great package that makes more Hp that a blueprinted methanol burning Animal for much less money. They can now be purchased with or with out the clutch and electric starter. Purchasing with out makes the price even more attractive.

http://www.fastermotors.net/WORLDFORMULAENGINES.html

 

[James Frantz]

How are you going to know how much of this dirt you need to put in the engine? A little bit is good?? A lot more must be better??? How are you going to make sure it wears the cylinder evenly? Top and bottom? Thrust sides and the other sides.

[James Frantz]

Just what karting doesn’t need! Another class. Not to mention the expense.

[James Frantz]

I guess i don’t know how to do it properly.

Here’s my email: fastermotors@tds.net if you want to send me a message i can reply to it.

[James Frantz]

Walt

Did you get my PM?

[James Frantz]

What Steve said is easily demonstrated on the dyno. Cooling the head by any method will always show better HP numbers.

I have a minimum of 3 temp sensors that i use on my dyno. 1) cylinder head temp 2. Lower block / oil temp 3. Intake air temp

[James Frantz]

I’ll be happy to send you a case of 4T for $144.00 plus shipping. If you want to buy individual quarts the price is $12.50 each.

Jim

http://www.fastermotors.net

tel 920-207-9180

[James Frantz]

My everyday price is $12.50 per quart.

If you buy it by the case it’s $12.00 per quart.

A case has 12 Quarts in it.

[James Frantz]

I wish i could answer that question but i have never just swapped the heads. The WF head has a different bolt pattern for the intake than the Animal and also take a bigger carb (26 mm) You can’t just swap the head and use the same carb and intake.

[James Frantz]

Here’s a tool i sell to help with helicoil installation. I thought it would be a great help but they haven’t exactly been flying off the shelf.  I don’t get it. Maybe someone could explain it to me.  http://www.fastermotors.net/SpecialAnimalTools.html

[James Frantz]

I don’t want to continue to stir the pot and in any way pick on Andy but my original reply was kind of a  knee jerk conditioned responce caused by years of dealing with people from the dark side posting negative things about the LO 206 and Briggs on another forum. In fact i apologize to Andy and everyone else for bringing that mind set to this post. I am normally not a conspiracy nut job.

This information was not available until just recently. Especially the info about the thicker motor mounts. <span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>-Here’s what Briggs recommends: Please take note of the information in Bold.</span>

<span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>Engine mounts – Just because a mount allows for additional engine offset does NOT mean you should do it! Excessive offset and the use of a thin aluminum base plate (typically machined to save a few grams further reducing strength) amplify vibration throughout the engine and system. It will also impact fuel metering as vibration agitates fuel (hint, hint).</span>
<p style=”margin: 1em 0px; color: #000000; text-shadow: #ffffff 1px 1px; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>o Install the engine with no more than a ¾ inch offset. When a ‘typical’ ½ inch plate is used and offset beyond this, strain gauge tests shows up to a 20% increase in vibration measured at the valve cover. This is a TREMDOUS amount of additional vibration and does not take into account any common contributing sources of vibration (track surface, tire balance, bent axles, etc.). Vibration accelerates fatigue.</p>
<p style=”margin: 1em 0px; color: #000000; text-shadow: #ffffff 1px 1px; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>o Use a QUALITY mount. The BEST on the market is the Odenthal mount. It allows for greater offset without sacrificing rigidity. Another system would be the PMI engine mount with the ¾” engine plate verses the standard ½” plate.</p>

[James Frantz]

Tony

You can shorten the slide on the top, you can remove material from the bottom of the cap or you can just add another gasket. To my knowledge no one makes the brass nut in the top of the carb separately. For stock appearing applications and when i want adjustability on a WF carb i have retaped the cap for a bolt with a hole drilled through it lengthwise. The same will work for an Animal carb.

 

[James Frantz]

Bandit (all chassis) Made Made In the USA  http://www.fastermotors.net/BanditChassis.html

[James Frantz]

Yes

Now i remember talking to you. That seems like it was a long time ago. I don’t remember talking about any issues with mounting the LO 206 on your chassis.

I was at a race in Phoenix (4 cycle showdown) last fall and i believe the guy that won the WF race was on a Kosmic chassis. I don’t know which one but my guess it wasn’t made specifically for a WF

It sounds to me like the whole issue is that the seat strut is in the way. That’s not unusual. I’ve seen it may times. If you don’t want to remove it then i guess you are out of luck but please don’t discourage others from getting into the LO 206 because you don’t want to take anyones advise.

How about this? Cut the seat strut off about an inch up from the chassis.  If you ever want to put it back the way it was you can simply machine a piece or smaller tubing to fit inside the stub on the frame and the other end into the strut you cut off. A little weld and your back in business with a 2 stroke if you so desire.

Chassis are just a piece of steel for crying out loud. It’s not like you are cutting off your right arm.

It’s 10 years old so i don’t think you are going to loose any money on it. On the contrary with the 206 on it it will be an easy sell.

[James Frantz]

I guess you should have called me.

If you want the best then yes you should have a chassis designed for a 4 stroke. But if you are using and 08 2 cycle chassis i guess you aren’t striving for the best of the best. Many chassis have bolt on seat struts and they work just great.  If you have to move the motor off to the right a lot there is a motor mount for that purpose now. In fact if it helps you out i’ll take one of your NEW motor mounts you bought in exchange for one of mine. No charge.

[James Frantz]

Something strikes me as being a little fishy here but i’ll temporarily ignore my suspicions and bite. It’s pretty simple to cut off a welded on seat strut and use a BOLT ON universal seat strut that can be moved a couple of inches to accommodate the engine and clutch. Any adjustable motor mount will give you the ability to move the engine to the right for seat clearance. If that doesn’t give you enough then cut the other seat strut off, move the seat a little to the left and use a universal seat strut on the left side also. Problem solved. Cost of 2 seat struts $30.00.

Every day more people are leaving their clone engines in favor of the LO 206. I talk to people almost every day that are also leaving the 2 stroke world and switching to the LO 206. Could it be that some in the 2 cycle industry see the LO 206 as a threat to their business also. Naaaa, that would never happen. HMMMM

[James Frantz]

No offense Pat but keep in mind that adding additional shafts and chain consumes horsepower. Personally, that’s not something i would want to do with a LO 206. In my opinion jackshafts are also kind of pricy.

[James Frantz]

There are some chassis that have a 3rd axle bearing and welded on seat struts that are really hard to mount a  LO 206 on. Often times they have welded on seat struts that get in the way of the clutch and chain. Removing this seat strut and replacing it with a bolt on strut usually solves the problem. In fact removing the other seat strut makes your life a whole lot simpler since you can now put the seat wherever you need to to get the motor clearance and weight distribution.

Jimbo

http://www.fastermotors.net

[James Frantz]

The only advantage of the starter is that you just push the button and it starts right up. For a one man team that may be a nice feature.  I don’t like to have that extra weight on the kart especially hanging on the motor but to each his own. Some people do like it on the motor because that have to make weight.

The ring gear does take some HP away from the engine since it acts like a fan. It’s similar to old cars with the fan on the front of the engine. It takes HP to turn them.

[James Frantz]

I would hope that any site has the best interests of Karting at it’s heart regardless of weather someone is paying for advertising or not. To selectively delete posts about one engine and not the other is not in the best interest of karting. To ban certain people from posting facts (not opinions) and allow other people to make untrue posts for the purpose of promotion of their product or favorite is also not in the best interest of karting. The truth is especially important for the beginners.

“I read it on the internet. It must be true”

When the sole driving force of anything is money the truth always gets lost.

<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>I was taught that freedom of speech for everyone is a right in this country.</span>

Jimbo

http://www.fastermotors.net

[James Frantz]

The LO 206 is the best thing to happen in Karting in years.

Jimbo

http://www.fastermotors.net

[Author]

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