[Bruce Peck]

I’ve already told you my opinion – leave bare.  But that’s just me.  I’m never satisfied and always tweak so I’m always wanting to weld a bracket or something somewhere and much easier to do when you have the bare metal.  Just keep it oiled down.  In a laydown with bodywork you don’t see the frame anyway.

[Bruce Peck]

I always used to use the captive/spring loaded type, but I find them a PITA to do the initial mounting, etc.   The last couple of bodies I’ve done I’ve used the large head buttons and they’ve been great.  Only lost one I think over four years or so – three different karts.

The one on the left of course . . .

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/yamadog35/Misc/Dzus_Large_1.jpg[/IMG]

 

[Bruce Peck]

Questions were asked and answered here recently about tires:

https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/laydown-enduro-5-or-6-wheels/

I think you’ve indicated you’re running at Roebling Road so I believe the WKA class structure would apply.  You can see WKA’s class descriptions here:
http://worldkarting.com/index.php/series/vega-tire-tsracing-road-racing-series/88-rr-series/200-laydown-rr-classes
There’s Yamaha Med/Hvy for pipeYamaha Sportsman Lt/Med/Hvy for the sportsman can on a stick
Then there’s 100cc Pipe which is all piston ports including K-71, Comer P-51 etc.

If you’re running the AKRA/Dart Kart series, their classes are here:
http://www.dartkartclub.com/uploads/1/7/6/0/17605899/2015_akra_road_race_tech_manual_2015.4.pdf
Essentially the same but with a bit different offering for weights.  The “piston port” class is now called “Classic Controlled” and allows the older 100cc controlled engines in there as well.

Hope that helps.

 

[Bruce Peck]

Frank:  what is your intent for this kart?  Serious racing or just playing around?  That may determine how much money and effort you want to put into the axle clutch, etc.  What chassis are you building out?  Where do you intend to race it?

May I ask why you want to use metric components?  Unless you have these parts lying around then it would be less expensive and easier to use US parts like axle, bearings, etc.

Do you have your radiator/water cooling situation planned out?

[Bruce Peck]

Did you get an answer on this?  I’ve got one of these hubs sitting here and get you the measurements if you still need them.

[Bruce Peck]

Correct.  It is timed to be sandwiched between Christmas and New Years for travel, etc no matter the day of the week.

[Bruce Peck]

It’s been this way for a number of years and I doubt it will change.  Move-in day is the 27th.  Practice 28th.  Racing 29th/30th.   Pretty safe bet it will still be those dates.

[Bruce Peck]

http://www.mylaps.com/en/events/1142066

 

[Bruce Peck]

It’s not the individual you’re talking about, but this guy will replace batteries.  He is an RC car enthusiast and mainly does transponders for those, but he will do the Tranx-160’s that we use in karting.  He did one of the older squared off transponders for me a couple of years ago and it’s working great.  He runs a HVAC business and doesn’t do a lot of these during his peak busy seasons, but contact him from this page and he will tell you if/when he can do yours.

http://www.krcproducts.com/main_pages/services.htm#AMBrc%20TRANSPONDER%20CELL%20REPLACEMENT

 

 

[Bruce Peck]

Craig’s website is no longer active.  Craig sold off much of what he had put together and has moved on I think.   Jeremy, see your PM.  Contact info is there.

[Bruce Peck]

Talk to Craig Dori in Indy about Wilwood.  A few years ago Craig designed and made a new laydown frame and did a lot of work with brakes including some components from Wilwood.  I think he had issues and ended up using something different for front calipers (this was a 100cc kart though).  I can get you Craig’s contact info if he doesn’t comment in here.

You’re right about the EC-750 front calipers.  They are not self adjusting so as pads wear you have to manually adjust by adding/subtracting shims.

FYI – Craig also had new front brake hub/disc carrier set ups made and has some on the shelf.  I bought a couple of sets recently, but he has more if anyone needs some.  I think he has discs for these but they have the standard MCP bolt pattern so you can bolt on the discs you already have.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/yamadog35/Post%20on%20Bobs/CD_FrontBrakeHubs_1_zps2uo2zg1u.jpg[/IMG]

[Bruce Peck]

I’m sure Brian Wilhelm will chime in, but I believe he runs MCP/Enginetics equipment on his kart.  I’m building a 150cc clutch kart to run Unlimited and possibly F-125 if I can carry enough methanol, and I’m using MCP/Enginetics on mine and have been getting some help from Brian.  Some of it is the same equipment I used on my TaG-Enduro kart I built in 2008.  That kart was fast and heavy (anything with me in the seat is heavy) and it stopped fine.

I just bought a nice 7-1/8″ vented rotor from Brian (made by Terry Ives) that bolts to standard MCP 4-bolt brake hub for 1-1/4″ axles.  I’m using an MCP billet rear caliper that has 1-1/2″ pistons (don’t think they make this one any more).   On the front I’m using Enginetics EC-750 single piston caliper.  This is the large caliper that has a 1-3/8″ piston and uses the “scalloped” Enginetics pads which are still available.  I just looked and Russell Karting has a set “in stock”.  That’s were I got mine back in 2008.

Jeremy, did you really mean “aluminum spindle” in your post?  Or did you mean an MCP style aluminum hub and brake carrier?  I assume you mean the latter like shown the picture below.  Brian also has 1/4″ thick cast iron discs for these hubs as well.  I intend to get a pair of those.

EC-750 Front Caliper
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/yamadog35/Post%20on%20Bobs/Front_Caliper_1_zpso31eakhq.jpg[/IMG]

Front Brake Disc Hub
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/yamadog35/Post%20on%20Bobs/MCP%20Brake%20Hub_zpsvklz7h8v.jpg[/IMG]

Rear Terry Ives Rotor
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/yamadog35/Post%20on%20Bobs/Rotor%20Rear%201_zpsxqfpahsl.jpg[/IMG]

Masters and Rear Caliper
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/yamadog35/Post%20on%20Bobs/MCP%20Masters%20and%20Rear%20Cal%201_zpswuifxzy2.jpg[/IMG]

[Bruce Peck]

Thanks Robert and crew for organizing this day!  As noted above, Kevin and I were testing a clutch theory and there’s no way we could have done it during a normal race weekend.  This format allowed us to put out two Mychron beacons to get times over a critical section of the track that helped prove out our theory.  Other than being cold in the morning, the day went as planned, our equipment held up fine, and we learned what we wanted to know.

Thanks again.  I’m sure we will take advantage of a day like this in the future.

[Bruce Peck]

Ace:  I might be able to help some.  Maybe, maybe not.  From the pics you have posted this sure looks like the Slingshot kart as others have said.  I have a Slingshot although it is a later model (one of the last made by the builder) and has some things different than on yours.  Example, the master cylinders are not mounted in the center on mine.  But other things look distinctively like how the Slingshot was built including how the brake rotors (6″ correct?) are integrated into blue anodized hubs.

If this is a Slingshot, it was made by Jerry Clayton in the Chicago area and sold through CKT which used to be known as Chicago Karting Technology (this is Jim Perry’s shop –  http://cktracing.com/ )   I bought mine directly from Jerry long after he quit making them.  It was one he built for one of his sons who quit racing before the kart was finished.

If you go to this site, you can see a number of photos of mine from when I built up the chassis for a TaG-Enduro kart in 2008.
http://home.comcast.net/~yamadog35/tagenduro.html
I haven’t touched the website in years so it is a bit messed up, but most of the photos are still accessible.  I modified a number of things like adding larger front brakes, but some of the components will likely look familiar.   If you think it would help I can do some measuring on mine, but I will be gone this weekend so couldn’t do this until sometime next week.

[Bruce Peck]

Is Sunday still a make-up day if Saturday gets rained out?

[Bruce Peck]

Oh, and race gas.  Is it assumed we need to bring our own?

[Bruce Peck]

Thanks Robert!  See you in a couple of weeks!

How early can we get in to drop off trailers?  We’re not staying overnight at the track.

[Bruce Peck]

So Robert:  Is this for sure a GO at this point?  Or are you needing to reach some number of payments before you reach a break even point?

[Bruce Peck]

Robert:  getting ready to send payment for one kart/driver (Yamaha Pipe sprint/enduro) but I have a question.  See your PM.

Bruce Peck – Indy

[Bruce Peck]

Mark:  What is being discussed here is a single test day not associated with any race weekend.

[Bruce Peck]

Robert:  I’m definitely in for one kart/one driver.  It is a yamaha/pipe sprint-enduro.   I posted earlier in this thread that we would come, but when Johnny had to step away I scheduled something else for that weekend because I thought this wasn’t going to happen.  That activity is now cancelled so I’m back in.   Can you PM me with info on where to send payment?

Here’s a question about the test day.  If we were to bring one or two, would we be able to put out a couple of Mychron timing beacons in various spots to get some specific split times?  If there is one at the start finish line for normal timing and it is perhaps on driver’s right, we could put ours on driver’s left so as not to mess with anyone’s times.

Bruce Peck – Indy

[Bruce Peck]

Per this article, WKA will run the West course.

http://www.worldkarting.com/index.php/news/2014-pit-board-archive/926-07-22-2014-new-wka-national-road-racing-venue-set-for-2015

 

[Bruce Peck]

NO

[Bruce Peck]

Ric – You Da Man – but not “THE MAN”.  Only one of those ;-)

I’ll be giving you a shout about the parts.

Alan – see your PM.

[Bruce Peck]

38″ is good.  36″ is a better goal using the 36.5″ New Concept nose if you can find one.  L-4 and/or L-3 as others have stated is the best place to start for pipe.  I highly recommend the Hoosiers in the R60 compound and the 4.5/10.5-6 size on all four corners.  That tire set up is what won the WKA sprint class on day 2 at Daytona last month (he wasn’t running Yamaha though).   You don’t really need the wider tire on the rear unless your chassis is just really hard on tires.

[Author]

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