[Andy Kiker]

I don’t have a video but this place is awesome. It’s like a big roller coaster. The elevation changes are huge. also had a great race against Darrin Cuthbertson in the unlimited class. We went back and forth for the lead several times during the race. I got passed him on the last lap only to have him come back by me side by side at the finish line. He got me by half a kart at the line. It was the kind of race you hope for when you go to a race track. Congratulations to Darrin and his Dad, and team on their eagle. If you ever get a chance to run this place go you will not be disappointed.

 

[Andy Kiker]

Yellow-don’t use

White/blue-Coil

Black/white-Ground

Black/yellow-kill switch

Two short wires open.

[Andy Kiker]

The yellow wire is the wave to BB wire. I would always forget to hook it up.

[Andy Kiker]

Jeff this is the notes I had.

Black/yellow = Kill Switch
Black/White = Ground
White/Blue = Coil
Yellow = Don’t use

[Andy Kiker]

Sorry Dan, That was to easy a setup. I couldn’t pass it up.

[Andy Kiker]

Good thing Ian has a picture posted so we all know what Dan was referring to. I think.

[Andy Kiker]

I will make it to some for sure.

[Andy Kiker]

Great job Chris. Keep up the good work. Thanks Adam/Hoosier for the support.

[Andy Kiker]

Larry, To start I currently run a gas gas and have for the past many years. Before that that we ran a 2001 and older version of the Honda with very good results . I have never ran the case induction Honda. It was  Anderson prepared with Dellorto carb, Anderson pipe and silencer (very quiet), digital PVL non programmable with Anderson ignition curve. (stock Honda ignition curve is the worst for our application), Stock Honda piston with stock clearance. I think it is 2.5 thousandths. any time we put a new piston in we always ran 2 to 3 easy sessions for break in. Head volume I think was around 22 to 22.5. v force reeds. Top end with ours was a matter of  keeping an eye on the bottom edge of the skirt at the center it would start to crack. time of this to happen varied. I will say RPM was the key to making them last longer. if you kept it under 11000 things last much longer. over 11000 and I was replace much more frequent. I am no expert on this stuff. I always left the motor setup to the engine builders. I just replaced parts as needed.

You guys are very lucky to have your own expert right on here with Ian. He is very knowledgeable and willing to answer almost any questions. and is spot on with his answers.

as Anthony said above getting your chassis to carry more turn speed will do much more in cutting your lap times than anything you can do to the motor.            

[Andy Kiker]

I have never found the 250 single to be very jet sensitive. once you have a good setup and it is not blubbering and exhaust temps are not to high leave it alone. Unlike a 125 you do not have to be right on the verge of detonation for it to be fast. I run the same jet almost all the time unless there is extreme air changes or you go to Miller in Utah.

[Andy Kiker]

<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>GerryMacNutt wrote: I need 70 + h.p. and a great chassis to get me close to the front</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”></div>
<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>Gerry, Just refer back to my previous post.</div>

[Andy Kiker]

If you want the best!!

Anderson Maverick Div 1 chassis w/ Wiwa GasGas

[Andy Kiker]

Yes Dan it was amazing how fast it went just getting my fat a** out of the seat.

[Andy Kiker]

Almost any 12v battery would work. I would say at a minimum 5000 mah. I run one of these.

http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11075.37  Just make sure it is fully charged before each race. Also if you run a mychron 4 tied in to the same battery it shuts off on low voltage (below 10v I think) so if the gage shuts off come in because the water pump is not fare behind.

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