[Jay Sinon]

I would only use heat as a last resort there is a chance that you could change the tensile strength of the metal or possible warp the clutch. Which clutch puller were you using the Horstman one that pulls with 5 bolts or the aftermarket puller that pulls off of the spring perches  or a regular 2 or 3 jar puller? What exactly stripped? were you using air tools?

When you do get it off and you get ready to reinstall it, try installing it with no key and some valve grinding compound between the clutch and the crank. Spin the clutch by hand on the crank until both surfaces match then clean the valve grinding compound off and install the key and reinstall the clutch this will mate the two surfaces better and help it seat flush on the crank which should make it stay on and remove better as there will not be a rocking motion between the two pieces that could cause a binding or shearing on the key.

[Tom Petalino]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>The puller was a new comet racing 5 bolt puller. The threads on the puller stripped when pressure was applied. I was not using air tools , just an adjustable wrench. I’m going to tap the puller one size larger , should be fine for my next atempt.</p>

[Greg Wright]

Did you smack the center bolt of the puller with a steel hammer? If not you should.

[Tom Petalino]

I was afraid to hit the crank thinking it would bend or damage it.

[Greg Wright]

You want to smack it squarely and sharply, this is normal operating procedure when pulling something off of a tapered shaft.

[Tom Petalino]

Thanks Greg. I tapped it with a hammer and it popped right off. Learn something new every day.

[Greg Wright]

You’re very welcome. Like I said earlier, that’s the way it’s done.

[Walt Gifford]

Tom, 28 Ft. Lbs. next time.

Gif

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