[tony zambos]

Ron,
If you truly only sprayed the clutch with brake cleaner and didn’t touch the spring adjusters, the clutch should be fine. Did you use the recommended tools to pull the clutch and reinstall it? I’d pull the clutch again to see if anything has broken. Revving the engine on the stand is not going to give you an accurate indication of when the clutch locks up and the engine should rev way past 10k.
If it’s not the clutch, you could have an engine or carb issue, or you have too small of a gear on the axle. If you keep running down the street having smoke coming off the clutch, stop doing both. Over heating the clutch is going to shorten the life span of the friction discs, floaters and springs.

[Gary Lawson]

When you say you disassembled it did you remove the disks and floater? If you did and you flipped any one of them then you are not getting full contact anymore. Brand new they are perfectly flat but once you run them they become concave. This is likely the issue. Only other option would be contamination with oil. The overheating issue is from excessive slipping. The “stop accelerating” at 9000-9200 sounds like you are describing the stall speed. Assuming it is a can engine it should be closer to 5
8600. You should not do more than 2 clutch tests in a row without letting the clutch cool. Even if engagement is set correctly it will get very hot! The quick fix is to take a 1/4 turn counterclockwise from each spring to lower engagement. Assuming a plate is backward it will be hard to determine and correct now. Ifeal fix would be to get new disks and floater and have the clutch re machined flat with .030 air gap and start over.

[Walt Gifford]

I’ve seen clutches put together wrong where the drive hub isn’t lined up with the lever support.

Going up and down a street is very hard on a clutch. 4 trips will burn the clutch almost from a standing start 8 times, not what it was designed for.

Gif

[Al Nunley]

First thing we would need to know is; what exhaust.  The can, three hole, 4 hole or a pipe all want different engagement rpm’s.

Second thing we would need to know is;  is the engine blueprinted?   What are the CC’s in the combustion chamber?

 

From the desk of [B]Al Nunley[/B]
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
(Al Nunley)

[Matt Dixon]

Nice… correct me if Im wrong but is this Al’s first post on the new forum???

[Author]

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