[Anthony Siragusa]

Mike, it sound like you have a possible air leak, I would make sure all gaskets are good, and also doing a cleaning of the carb, do a rebuild on the carb, and start from there. Start with low speed at 2 full turns out and High speed at 1/2 turn, and move them in from there.

 

[Anonymous]

Not sure how different stock to blueprinted settings would be, I would imagine they would be the same, but we always ran our KPV carbs at about 1.5 on the low and .25 on the high, and would open the low to 2-2.25 on the track once we got rolling. It won’t get off the grid unless it’s turned in.

[Gary Lawson]

+1 to TJs comments. Sounds like you need to back out the idle screw. Turning the low in to leave the pits and for starts is standard procedure

[Michael Monaghan]

I did find an air leak at the cylinder, so I threw some new gaskets on and rebuilt the carb while it was off. I won’t get a chance to run it till the next race though. From what I could find online though, a non-blueprinted carb runs at 1 1/2 low and 3/4 to 1/2 on the high. Seem to be a little different from all the blueprinted one, but then again, this is just going off of shop manuals.

[Walt Gifford]

You have to check your pop off pressure and fulcrum arm height. There is a way to set up that carb so your engine will idle and still run good on the track. If your carb is set that way you’re going to need needle settings that are very different than conventional wisdom.

If you can’t get going coming off the grid is it too rich or too lean? If you choke the airbox does it pick up or get worse.

Gif

[Stu Hayner]

Michael,

Bring it in to the shop before you take it out to the track. I’ll help you with the carb and the settings. We can start the engine at the shop and tune it pretty close.

MDG Karting
1657 N Glassell
Orange, Ca 92867
714 928-KART (5278)

Stu

[Author]

Posts